Our journey was taking us into the heart of l'Acadie, and we began to see Acadian flags flying as soon as we arrived in the Margaree area.
The coastline was rugged.
It is a tribute to the Acadian people that despite persecutions and expulsions, their culture has survived and a vibrant, distinct community exists to this day. Long may it continue. A couple of Bald Eagles (Haliaeetus leucocephalus) cruised along the coastline where sea and land meet, no doubt taking advantage of the sheer winds rising off the cliffs.
At one point they were almost right above our heads. The views were impressive at every turn in the road.
It is a feature of this part of the world that the houses are often colourful, and what might look incongruous in a city suburb, is perfect for the region.
It was always a pleasure when we came across a sizeable flock of cormorants.
A Great Black-backed Gull (Larus marinus) was equally at home on the ocean.
There was never a shortage of convenient spots to pull off to the side of the road and walk the beach.
There were many freshwater lakes in addition to the salty water of the ocean.
It was the awesome coastline that inspired us most, however.
We were gob-smacked the whole time and it made me wonder if the people who live here come to take it for granted. I suspect they do, but every once in a while, on a bright day when the sun is warming their face, they surely must look at it and know that they live in a very special part of the world. Chéticamp, the largest town in l'Acadie, is home to the ancient craft of rug hooking. This is perhaps the only part of the world where the ladies are proud to call themselves hookers!
Rug hooking has evolved from a utilitarian pastime to a a distinctive art form, requiring the highest levels of dedication, creativity and skill - much like quilting. A premium rug by a skilled artist commands several thousands of dollars and is eagerly sought after by collectors. They are displayed as works of art, adorning walls in distinguished homes around the world, including at Rideau Hall, home of the Governor General of Canada.
Miriam was especially keen to gain some exposure to this craft and we could not have been more fortunate to drop into Lola's Hookers, the pre-eminent shop for hooked rugs in the area. Lola had been working on a rug that had given her a lot of trouble. She told us that she finally got tired of picking apart what she had created, because she knew it wasn't right. She called in two renowned hookers of the area, and we were privy to their discussion about the rug and what was needed to finish it well.
They were actually sketching on the canvas so that Lola would be able to remain true to their design. It was fascinating to be privy to the creative process unfolding before our eyes, with the very finest proponents of the art sharing their knowledge.
I was happy that Miriam had such a wonderful opportunity to satisfy her curiosity and to learn a little more about the process. We will not soon forget this encounter. Unfortunately, Miriam's pictures covering the rest of the day, and our journey around more of the Cabot Trail, somehow got deleted from her memory card, so I have nothing else to share with you today. Rest assured that we had a great day, however, and the eastern part of the Trail will be brought to you tomorrow.
17 September 2021
Auld's Cove - Cabot Trail - Cape Breton Highlands National Park - Auld's Cove
It was a considerably brighter morning than the previous day, and we looked forward to more enjoyable hours of exploration along the Cabot Trail.
The views are so spectacular, even more so on the east side, and one dramatic and beautiful scene followed another.
Whenever it was possible we stopped to enjoy the view - and to take some pictures of course. The Cabot Trail runs through the Cape Breton Highlands National Park and there is a fee that must be paid to enter the park. I don't recall the cost, but it was quite modest.
I never resent my money going to such magnificent places, the patrimony of all Canadians; of the people of the world, in fact. There was a short, very steep trail across from the park headquarters and we decided to climb up to enjoy the view from the top.
We arrived at the top a little out of breath, but we were able to sit for a while and contemplate the splendour before us.
The views were spectacular!
We had not seen many dragonflies during our visit to The Maritimes, so we were delighted when this Autumn Meadowhawk ( Sympetrum vicinum) landed right in front of us.
We were heading for Neil's Harbour, a classic little fishing village, where we planned to have lunch.
The local chowder house lived up to its reputation for excellent seafood, and we both had a bowl of seafood chowder with a delicious hot biscuit. The lighthouse has been converted into an ice cream parlour, but we were too full to even think about it!
Great Black-backed Gulls were dotted throughout the harbour. If I am not mistaken this is a second cycle individual, meaning that it wears the plumage before entering its second prebasic moult.
More information than you wanted or needed to know, I am sure! In a couple of years it will look just like this.
An American Herring Gull (Larus smithsonianus) is a large gull - except when standing next to a Great Black Backed Gull that is!
Does anything shout out "Maritime coast" like a bevy of cormorants loafing on a rock?
We decided to walk the Coastal Trail, about a 3km trek.
On the way down to the shore we passed this tranquil brook.
As we paused in quiet contemplation of nature, I could not help but be reminded of a stanza from Alfred Lord Tennyson's immortal poem, The Brook.
"I chatter, chatter, as I flow
To join the brimming river,
For men may come and men may go,
But I go on forever."
There were delightful walks through forested areas where we saw the only Pine Grosbeak (Pinicola enucleator), a female, of our trip.
I have no idea why Blogger is doing this but after a half hour of frustration I have been unable to change it.
The pictures are not terrific but they are the best we have!
The beach was pretty much ours, there being very few people to disturb the tranquility.
Imagine our pleasure when small parties of Sanderling (Calidris alba) were there to greet us.
It brought back instant memories of Prince Edward Island, and a contingent of Semipalmated Plovers (Charadrius semipalmatus) cemented the recollection.
Relaxation on the sand is always a good idea!
A healthy stand of dune grass seems to be anchoring the sand well and preventing it from blowing away.
The next trail we explored was the Jigging Cove Trail, a round trip of about two kilometres.
This trail was pleasant enough to walk but was not brimming with birdlife. A couple of Spreadwings (Lestidae) were quite obliging.
Spreadwings are not easy to identify without close examination, but based on the time of year, the location and the prevalence of the species, I think they are male and female Spotted Spreadwings (Lestes congener). Green Cove was a very short trail, only a couple of hundred metres or so, but it provided excellent views of the ocean where whales are known to pass at certain times of the year.
We had to be content with cormorants on a rock, a quintessential image dear to my heart.
On the drive back to Auld's Cove we spotted a few American Wigeons (Mareca americana) in a pond by the side of the road, the only sighting of this species on our journey through Nova Scotia.
Back at Auld's Cove we were tired enough from our day's activity that we were not inclined to go out for dinner, so we picked up a couple of sandwiches at the local Subway store and enjoyed them in our room. It had been a great experience to get to know the Cabot Trail and Cape Breton Island - at least a little anyway.
18 September 2021
Auld's Cove, NS - Perth-Andover, NB
We left our room and went to the local Tim Horton's for breakfast - coffee, and herb and garlic cream cheese on a bagel. While eating, a Pileated Woodpecker (Dryocopus pileatus) started to call vociferously, and then flew over right in front of us.
I wish it would join us for breakfast every day!
The journey from Nova Scotia to new New Brunswick was a bit of a challenge at times. We drove through several periods of torrential rain and fog so thick you could barely see through it.
The Perth-Andover Motor Inn turned out to be a great choice. It was exceptionally clean and we were well satisfied with our room.
The local pizza store was in the supermarket. It took a while to get our order filled and the pizza was mediocre, but it filled our stomachs. We settled in for the night, glad to be off the road.
Accommodation: Perth-Andover Motor Inn, 560 Route 190, Perth-Andover, NB E7H 4H8, 506 273-2224 Rating: 4 out of 5 stars.
19 September 2021
Perth-Andover - Four Falls - New Denmark, NB - St-Hyacinthe, QC
The reason for our stop at Perth-Andover was to visit our old friend Julie Johnson and her mother, Joy, who had moved from Carlisle, ON to New Brunswick several years ago.
We were up early and had lots of time to spare before heading for Julie's home. Four Falls sounded like an attractive place to visit, so that is what we did.
As the name implies, it is the site of four waterfalls and there is much natural beauty there.
A lovely place to walk and enjoy nature.
And then there is the other side of it. Humans, the supreme despoilers have left their mark.
What would a bridge be without graffiti? Mindless, vulgar, senseless graffiti.
Local culture is on full display.
Nothing was sacred, nothing should be left as nature intended it.
What do you feel like today?
Oh, how we have added to the charm of the place. Uplifting messages too, just what everyone wants to see, especially if you bring your children for a walk through the woods enjoying the sound of the falls. Let's daub paint all over the rocks.
Whatever else we do let's not leave anything unspoiled. While we're here let's liberally strew our trash around. The photographs that follow do not begin to capture the scope of the trash. They merely illustrate the variety of discarded items.
Don't for a moment think that I captured it all. If this is the way we treat own backyard, the natural beauty still remaining, areas still unpaved, how can we have any hope that we will cease to pollute the oceans and tackle issues such as acid rain and polluted air? I despair for humanity. I mourn for the inheritance of our children and grandchildren. The simple fact that we don't give a damn is clear.
We hear a lot about "freedom" these days. Is this what freedom means? Freedom to do anything? Freedom to willfully despoil the Earth? Freedom to have no concern for the biosphere and all its creatures?
Does it convey the right for aggrieved anti-vaxxers to hurl abuse at doctors and nurses who are almost dead on their feet from long hours of treating their patients? Does it justify delaying ambulances from delivering their critically-ill patients to a hospital?
Is this what freedom means?
For some, everything seems to revolve around individual rights with no thought for the common good. Does it make any sense for a person to be able to buy a weapon so powerful that it can kill scores of people in a minute, and to lawfully carry that weapon into the street, or even into a state legislature? Does freedom confer the right on a politician to willfully and knowingly lie, over and over again?
I can tell you it sickens me.
But nothing sickens me quite as much as this continual, unabated assault on the Earth and its ability to deliver life itself.
Do you want this?
When I see rocks defaced in the manner below, it almost makes me laugh to think that I was once horrified when people carved their initials on trees.
I tell you again we are a sad, sad species. Having left the Four Falls Degradation Site we were very happy indeed to see Julie and Joy.
They have a lovely home on 12 acres and cherish it with the loving care exhibited by dedicated, caring, active custodians of the land. We shared a lovely brunch together on the porch overlooking the valley.
To paraphrase Robert Frost, we had miles to go before we slept, and left by late morning. We made it as far as St.-Hyacinthe, QC, where we got a room at a Day's Inn just off the highway. The room was very acceptable, enlivened by a small scene painted directly on the wall.
We went across to a restaurant within walking distance of the hotel, but were unable to eat inside, Québec had just initiated its vaccine passport and, of course we didn't have one. There were tables outside, however, where we dined on some distinctly second rate food.
The beds were comfortable and we settled in to blissful slumber.
Accommodation: Day's Inn, 410, rue Couture, Sainte-Hélène-de-Bagot, QC 450 791-2580, daysinn.stehelene@sogetel.net Rating: 3 stars out of 5.
20 September 2021
St.-Hyacinthe, QC - Waterloo, ON
A complimentary breakfast was included, but it was a disappointing affair. There was little choice and replenishments were needed. There was only one muffin left, and it was chocolate chip, which neither Miriam nor I wanted. Everywhere was a sea of styrofoam and plastic. We were the only people to arrive wearing a mask and there was no staff on hand to either restock the food or ask people to comply with COVID requirements. Only last evening we had been refused permission (rightly so) to dine indoors without showing identification and a vaccine passport.
Just as we were leaving the fellow at the front desk came into the dining area, sans mask, sans gloves, and began to load the food trays.
The regulations are applied in mysterious ways!
We entered the highway in high spirits, knowing that by mid afternoon we would be home. In no time at all, or so it seemed we were approaching Montréal.
Our journey proceeded uneventfully and by mid afternoon we were walking through our front door. It's always good to be home!
