Vacation in Atlantic Canada - Part One

      I have been an inveterate traveller pretty much all of my life, and Miriam has joined me in that passion since I have known her, relishing the experience of new wildlife, cultures, language and food. Travel has an inherent richness to it, enabling people from different parts of the world to understand each other and benefit from shared experience. Barriers are broken down, relationships are formed, friendships cemented, stereotypes dismissed, and the world becomes a better place. 

     COVID caused our adventures to come to a screeching halt, sometimes even precluding local walks, so we were very happy when restrictions were eased sufficiently that we were able to travel in Eastern Canada. Neither of us had visited the region for many  years so we welcomed the opportunity with great enthusiasm. 

06 September 2021

Waterloo, ON - Montmagny, QC

     Our journey began in atrocious weather, with rain forming a sheet of water. We left home before dawn and the combination of darkness and heavy rain made driving unpleasant for a while. As we travelled farther east, however, conditions ameliorated somewhat, and even though there were a couple of repetitions of the deluge of early morning we at least had the benefit of daylight.

     We had made a reservation at Motel Centre-Ville in Montmagny, QC, a place where we had stayed en route to Gaspé in 2018. We did not realize that the establishment had two components one across the road from the other. On our first visit we were lodged at the main facility and found it quite pleasant. On this occasion we were assigned a room in a typical old strip motel across the street. It was mediocre, a little dingy, but serviceable for a one-night stay. The washroom was the smallest we have ever seen. Miriam, who is not a big person, could not soap up in the shower without her elbows bumping against the side. There was nowhere to put anything.

Accommodation: Motel Centre-Ville, 14, Boulevard Taché est, Montmagny, QC G5V 1B7 Rating: 2.5 out of 5.

07 September 2021

Montmagny, QC - Summerside, PEI

     We were on the road by about 05h:30, happy that the roads were dry, and we made good progress through Québec into New Brunswick, where our route took us to the Confederation Bridge, often referred to as the Fixed Link, our pathway to Prince Edward Island.

     It had been necessary to obtain a PEI Pass on line before leaving Ontario, providing proof of both COVID vaccinations, and we thought we were armed with all that we needed.

     However, I had printed a copy of the application for the pass and not the pass itself! Furthermore, we had proof of both vaccinations, but they wanted the documentation covering the batch for the first and second shots. We had not kept the first vaccination certificate once the second one confirmed that we had received two doses.

     Shortly before leaving home we had acquired a new phone and Miriam gallantly navigated her way to the Ontario Ministry of Health site and was able to bring up our documentation. Kudos to her. 

     We had been shunted off to one side so as not to delay cars behind us, and to the great credit of the young man who interviewed us he had been able to retrieve the information too, and let us know that we were cleared to go pending the obligatory rapid test.

     He was pleasant throughout and never hectored us in any way for not having the full documentation. He was a credit to Prince Edward Island.

     The rapid test was administered and we were advised to keep our phone open for at least two hours when we would be contacted in the event of it being positive. 

     We sailed on through with a great sense of relief.

     We had made reservations for three nights at Baker Shore Bed and Breakfast and did not have far to travel. Even turning into the driveway we could see that it was a lovely house. 

     We were greeted by Darrell Lowe who requested that we continue to wear a mask until the two-hour cautionary period had expired, and we appreciated this level of diligence.

     Shortly, we were joined by Lynne, Darrel's wife and shown our spacious and well appointed room.

     The room was equipped with everything we could possibly need during our stay and a card welcomed us to PEI and to their B&B.  We had barely settled in when Lynne arrived at our door with a plate of freshly baked cookies, still hot from the oven - and they were delicious.

Darrell and Lynne

     I should confess immediately that Baker Shores is my favourite B&B ever, and Darrell and Lynne the most congenial hosts. I make no apologies for my unbridled enthusiasm!

     Darrell has installed hummingbird feeders around the property, including one right at our window, and there was a constant parade of birds keen to fatten up on the rich sugar water in preparation for their impending migration.

     A walk around the yard at the back of the house yielded American Robins (Turdus migratorius), a Northern Flicker (Colaptes auratus) and several very entertaining American Crows (Corvus brachyrynchos).

     We inquired of Lynne as to a good place to eat dinner. She gave us a list of recommendations and we chose a restaurant called Gentleman Jim's. We both had fish and chips, well prepared and very tasty, but it never ceases to amaze me that these establishments give you enough chips to feed a village. More than half of ours went back on the plate, a dreadful waste of food.

     One the way to the B&B from the COVID checkpoint, we had passed by some marshy areas and had noticed many subadult American Herring Gulls (Larus smithsonianus) loafing on the mud, and at the side of the road, so we stopped to get a better look.

     There were also several Greater (Tringa melanoleuca) and Lesser Yellowlegs (Tringa flavipes) and they merited our attention too.

     When we arrived back at the B&B we poured ourselves a glass of wine, in real glasses that were in the room (no plastic crap) and went to sit on the veranda out front, where three Ruby-throated Hummingbirds (Archilocus colubris) were the finest of companions. We lingered until it was almost dark, happy to be on Prince Edward Island, and congratulating ourselves on having found so agreeable a place to stay. It was a wonderful way to end the evening.

08 September 2021

Baker Shore - Chelton Beach Provincial Park - The Boardwalk, Summerside - Malpeque - Baker Shore

     It is often patently obvious that the host of a B&B exchanges a few words with its patrons, almost as a point of obligation, lacking in sincerity and devoid of substance.

     Lynne was the exact antithesis of this. She was always genuinely interested in what we had done, what was on tap next, how she might help, and in the process engaged in a lively flow of intelligent conversation. It was always a pleasure to see her and have a chat.

     Darrell really came into his own at breakfast. The meals he created were as well prepared, varied and as tasty as is possible.

     Here is breakfast the first morning.

     That muffin was hot, homemade and delicious.

      And here is what Darrell followed up with.

     I should point out that Darrell worked for forty years in the oil fields of northern Alberta as a pipe fitter, and we can only say that we are glad that he turned in his wrench for a spatula! How many times has a baked pear drizzled with nuts graced your breakfast plate?

     The preserves on the table were all homemade by Lynne.

     Our coffee cup was barely empty before it was filled again.

     Marie Smith is a transplanted Newfoundlander to PEI and a fellow blogger. We had been in touch during the run up to our trip and had arranged to spend a morning together. Marie suggested Chelton Beach Provincial Park as a place to meet, quite close to where we were staying and a productive spot for birds.

     From the park one has an excellent view of Confederation Bridge as it snakes its way across the Northumberland Strait.

     Marie and her husband, Rick, were caught up in heavy traffic and we arrived a little before them. When they arrived we took a very enjoyable walk along the beach together.

     It was a pleasure to see a few Bonaparte's Gulls (Chroicocephalus philadelphia) out on the water.

     Sanderlings (Calidris alba), a species I seldom see in Ontario, provided great amusement as they scurried around feeding rapidly, as though not a minute could be spared.

     A Ring-billed Gull (Larus delawarensis) on the other hand was a familiar sight.

     Hoary Mugwort (Artemisia stelleriana), often known as Dusty Miller by gardeners, is originally from Asia but has become established in salty dunes in North America.

     One of the stereotypical images of Atlantic Canada is of lonely lighthouses, former beacons of navigation critical to mariners, but now mainly serving as backdrop for photographers.

     Cluster Flies (Genus Pollenia) are completely dependent on earthworms at every stage of their life, but may be found in attics and such places during the winter. 

     They are completely harmless to humans.

     The tide was coming in and the area available for walking on the beach was becoming narrower, so Marie suggested that we go into Summerside to walk along the Boardwalk, an area she and Rick frequent regularly, and a veritable oasis for them during COVID.

      This seemed like a perfect spot for a photograph of our kind and genial new friends.

     There was not a huge concentration of birds along the downtown section of The Boardwalk but a Double-crested Cormorant (Phalacrocorax auritus) swam elegantly by.

     Farther along The Boardwalk, in an area with picnic shelters, and nicely wooded, Marie and Rick provided us with a very tasty lunch, comprising quinoa salad, chicken on a bun and Rice Crispy squares (made for their grandchildren). We were offered a choice of tea, coffee or water. It was all delicious, made even more delightful by being eaten outdoors with friends.

     A couple of Yellow-bellied Sapsuckers (Sphyrapicus varius) flitted from tree to tree, very adept at moving to the back side as soon as Miriam raised her camera. Several Blue Jays (Cyuanocitta cristata) found the area to their liking too.

     A Cabbage White (Pieris rapae) posed for us .....

     ..... and a short walk yielded a Solitary Sandpiper (Tringa solitaria).

     Rick and Marie had grandparent duties to attend to and we said goodbye with a deep sense of gratitude that such a splendid friendship had been forged. Blogging can have amazing consequences at times.

     Miriam had been checking for interesting corners of the Island to visit and we headed for Malpeque on the north shore.

     Our drive took us past this grand old church.

     This white exterior was utterly typical of most of the churches we saw; many of the small rural ones having been converted into residences.

     We stopped at any interesting stretch of shoreline we saw, and Semipalmated Plover (Charadrius semipalmatus) was the default shorebird, seen in numbers I seldom witness in Ontario.

     A Greater Yellowlegs (Tringa melanoleuca) looked like a distinguished country gentleman out for a stroll.

     Semipalmated Sandpipers (Caladris pusilla) are at the end of their migration through Prince Edward Island, but small numbers were present and you can see one below at the left of the picture.

     We decided to make another stop at The Boardwalk to see whether the difference in the tide greatly affected the birds there. Great Black-backed Gulls (Larus marinus), American Herring Gulls and Canada Geese (Branta canadensis) were loafing together.

     When we had visited in the morning a fellow had told us of an Osprey (Pandion haliaetus) nest which still contained young.

     We were happy to discover a noisy parent, probably the female, doing babysitting chores no doubt.

      

     The male was in the air and perhaps the female on the nest was calling for a food delivery.

     I am quite sure this Asian Lady Beetle (Harmonia axyridis) had heard of the excellence of Baker Shore Bed and Breakfast and wanted to hitch a ride back with us!

     Still full from Darrell's five star breakfast, and Marie's wonderful lunch, we decided to skip dinner and nibble on a few snacks we had in our room.

     It was a warm evening, the hummingbirds were buzzing, the breeze was zephyr-like, and the veranda beckoned. We filled our wine glasses and went to watch the closing of the day. 

     Prince Edward Island had welcomed us in style.

Accommodation: Baker Shore Bed and Breakfast, 21 Baker Shore Road, Summerside, PE, C1N 4J9, bakershorebandb@hotmail.com, www.bakershorebandb.com, 1 782 355-1089

Rating: 5 out of 5, plus an extra 5 for sheer excellence that is hard to beat. Thank you Lynne. Thank you Darrell. 

Local Sightings During COVID Restrictions

      There seems to be no end to the degree of backtracking, mind-changing, and the sewing of confusion by our abjectly inadequate provincial government, but one over-arching fact is clear, we are restrained from freedom of movement in one way or another. So I will continue to post about events that are occurring locally.

19 April 2021

 

Waterloo Corporate Campus, Waterloo, ON

     This location is a busy retail/commercial venue, with a large grocery store, drug store, restaurants, other retail establishments and offices, a dental practice, and all the vehicular and pedestrian traffic that goes with it.

     We found it nothing short of astonishing that a Canada Goose (Branta canadensis) has selected it as the best site for its nest!

     The area is quieter than usual due to COVID lockdown measures, but that will change in about four weeks, probably close to the time when the eggs will hatch, so I am not sure whether the nest is viable in the long term.

     Potential nest robbers such as Ring-billed Gull (Larus delawarensis) and American Crow (Corvus brachyrynchos) are frequently seen here, leaving eggs left unprotected even briefly, exposed to risk. Foxes, coyotes, raccoons and skunks also scavenge in the area.

     Someone has had a sign made to caution people about the presence of the goose at its nest, and we applaud this attempt to afford whatever protection is possible.

     If the eggs do hatch, as we hope they will, there is no body of water anywhere close, and given that newly hatched goslings are led to the relative safety of a pond or lake soon after hatching, one wonders what will happen in this case.

     It will be very interesting to keep an eye on the progress of the nest, all the while hoping for a successful outcome.

RIM Park, Waterloo, ON

     We are permitted out for exercise purposes so a visit to RIM Park, a large area alongside the Grand River, seemed like a great choice.

     A few other people were visiting the park, but mostly we were not in close proximity to anyone else.

     Several Turkey Vultures (Cathartes aura) were circling on the thermals, at times descending to barely treetop height.

     The object of our quest was Western Osprey (Pandion haliaetus), absent so far this year from familiar spots closer to home, and it was not long before we spotted our first bird carrying nesting material.

     It is generally the smaller male that delivers the building materials to the female who arranges them according to her preference. 

     All around us, the world is greening up, a little more each day.

     American Beavers (Castor canadensis) have emerged from their winter sojourn beneath the ice, and set to work immediately.

     We spotted a Raccoon (Procyon lotor) emerging from a hole in a tree, where it had perhaps been enjoying an afternoon nap.

     It climbed up the tree, showing considerable versatility and skill as it shimmied up vertically.

     It kept a watchful eye on us, but seemed unconcerned, knowing no doubt that it had the upper hand, secure on the tree, and able to escape its human observers if it needed to.

     We were quite entranced and enjoyed about ten minutes of observation before the Raccoon came back down to the hole, inserted itself in, rear end first, and glanced back at us before disappearing from view.

     Miriam is always behind the camera, but today I grabbed it, and she posed for a picture.

     At the entrance/exit to the park there is a working farm and recently the fence has been replaced around the orchard.

     That is a serious fence! Seems to me it would keep out a herd of bison!

     RIM Park is a large complex and in addition to the natural areas is home to skating rinks, other sports facilities and multi-purpose rooms of various kinds. The parking area for the buildings has for several years hosted a couple of pairs of breeding ospreys.

     And when two birds get together at this time of the year, anything goes!

     After all there has to be a reward for delivering those sticks!

     Better scan the area for more branches and earn a repeat performance. 

     We concluded that we saw at least three birds, possibly four, but we were unable to determine the makeup of the pairs. This male came in with a fish and perched a short distance from the nest.

     As often happens, it began to devour the head.

     Miriam managed a shot showing the zygodactyl feet of this species, equipped with a reversible outer toe permitting the fish to be held with two toes forward and two toes back, and spicules on the soles to lock into slippery, thrashing prey.

     When the male was sated the fish was delivered to the female on the nest, the male descending into the wind.

     We had just witnessed one male leave the female at the nest following copulation, and one wonders about a second male delivering food, and what clandestine rewards awaited him. Fish with benefits perhaps is the maxim at this nest! We did not tarry to find out! 

Conestogo, ON

     In nearby Conestogo a pair of Bald Eagles (Haliaeetus leucocephalus) has successfully nested for several years, and it appears that they are raising young again this year.

     The nest is a considerable distance from the road, and the pictures reflect this.

     We assume that by now the young are in the nest and are being fed by both parents.

     It is always a thrill to see this magnificent raptor.

Any Day in our Front Yard

     The moment we leave the house, the joyful sound of a male House Finch (Haemorhous mexicanus) rings in our ears, from high atop the American Linden (Tilia americana) that dominates our front yard.

     The song has been described as a "slow or disjointed jumble of musical notes". I am not persuaded that it is a "disjointed jumble" but it is without question musical, and very appealing to my ears, evoking intense pleasure on hearing it,

     When I hear birds sing, I am reminded of the words of Charles Hartshorne, American philosopher and bird lover who wrote:

"..... birdsong is recognizably musical by all basic human standards. It has nice bits of melody, charming rhythms, even bits of harmony (for birds, unlike us, can sing contrasting notes simultaneously); it has obvious examples of theme with variations, near examples of accelerando and rallentando, crescendo and diminuendo, internal inversion, even change of key and tempo contrasts, as, for instance, when the same pattern, e.g., a trill is given at half or double speed."

    Pay close attention next time you hear a bird sing and perhaps you will note some of this. A concert awaits you at the dawn of every day. And it won't cost you a cent. Encores are guaranteed!