Travels With Birds

13 February, 2026

Maberly, ON - Ottawa, ON - Nassau, Bahamas to Eleuthera, Bahamas

Miriam and I had driven to Maberly on 12 February, where my daughter and son-in-law live, to fly out together from Ottawa via Air Canada, direct to Nassau. Our alarms were set for 01h:30 to make the one-and-a-half hour drive to the airport and comply with the requirement to be there three hours before the flight.

I snoozed in the back seat for a good part of the journey, so it went quickly for me. The roads were clear and the drive was uneventful with little traffic on the road most of the time.

We all were in need of a coffee or a tea and lined up at Tim Horton's for about thirty-five minutes to get one! There was one person behind the counter to do everything. Sheer madness it seems, at a busy airport.

The flight was uneventful and it was wonderful to arrive in Nassau to await our ongoing flight to Eleuthera.

Everyone was cheerful, friendly and welcoming and we were able to go outside the terminal and enjoy the bright sunshine.

There were many House Sparrows (Passer domesticus) around the terminal and we felt they were there to welcome us with their cheery song. Here is a handsome male.

Ironically, we did our best birding of the trip right there at the airport. I am not fully aware of the bird distribution on other islands in the Bahama chain, but Eleuthera seemed depauperate of birds.

There was lots of activity at this modern, busy, efficient airport.

Have you ever been picked up in a Rolls Royce?

It was interesting to see this statue commemorating Sir Lynden Pindling and to learn a little of the history of The Bahamas.

We last saw a Curly-tailed Lizard (genus Leiocephalus) at Marea del Portillo in Cuba several years ago, so we were especially delighted to have this individual keep company with us for a while.

Northern Mockingbirds (Mimus polylgottos) took full advantage of the lush greenery and at least two were singing and displaying.

This Century Plant (genus Agave) is not native to The Bahamas; nevertheless it contributed to the subtropical nature of the place.

One of the exceptional discoveries, totally unanticipated, was a Mangrove Cuckoo (Coccyzus minor); it was not shy either.

I assume that its mangrove habitat is not far away, but it has benefitted from foraging at a bustling airport.

Some species are adaptable, after all.

Here is a second Northern Mockingbird.

The flower of this Orchid Tree (genus Bauhinia) is exceptionally beautiful.

Palm Warbler (Setophaga palmarum), not surprisingly, was very common.

Gastropods in the genus Zachrysia are air-breathing land snails, primarily endemic to Cuba and, presumably The Bahamas.

This species is probably Zachrysia provisoria but I am open to correction on that. My knowledge of the taxon is scant, but my curiosity is boundless!

The discovery of a Prairie Warbler (Setophaga discolor) in Ontario is unusual enough that it is a cause for a happy dance, but in The Bahamas it is described as a common migrant and non-breeding resident.

We were excited to see this individual which showed no hesitation to glean for insects for an extended period right before our eyes.

The short flight from Nassau to Eleuthera took only around twenty minutes; barely were we aloft than we were coming in to land again.

My grandson, Will, and his girlfriend, Holly, who is teaching there for a year, came to meet us, bringing the van we had rented, and it was a grand reunion at the airport. This was the reason for our visit, and (am I really saying this?) birding was secondary.

Holly's brother, Braden, is also a teacher at the Island School, and had, with great magnanimity, moved out of the little bungalow he occupies so that Andrew, Caroline, Miriam and I could stay there.

It was perfect for us and we would be very comfortable there, with everything we needed. I think that at least once a day we reminded ourselves of our good fortune. When Braden returns to Canada we hope to be able to repay his kindness.

The tide was out and we could have walked out into the mangroves had we chosen to do so.

The setting sun dipped lower on the horizon and the sky was suffused with colour.

We all went inside; some to have a cold beer, me to have a glass of wine, and settled in to our digs.

Will and Holly brought over all the ingredients for a fine dinner, which Will cooked for us, and it was delicious.

What a fine young man he has grown up to be. What a fine couple in fact.

We are indeed a lucky family!

09 December, 2025

Manantial del Turpial, Jardín, Antioquia

Today was a day that had been eagerly awaited by all members of our group. The Oilbird (Steatornis caripensis) verges on mythological; this was the day for mythology to be transformed into reality.

After a fine breakfast we set off for Manantial del Turpial, a short distance from our hotel.

The streets were as lovely as ever.

The place was well maintained and quite delightful, with cabins dotted throughout the grounds.

Photo: Pam Sadler

The unit seen above was unoccupied and the hammock was used by more than one of our group for a brief period of relaxation.

Ruddy Ground Doves (Colombina talpacoti) were active everywhere, often displaying either agonistically or amorously.

Picture: Victoria Ho

It was sometimes difficult to interpret their behaviour - as it often is with humans!

Ruddy Ground Dove (♀) Photo: Victoria Ho

Pam captured this glorious flight sequence.

An Andean Motmot (Motmotus aequatorialis) perched quietly, indifferent to the antics of the doves, or the arrival of human visitors.

A Lineated Woodpecker (Hylatomus lineatus) was far away, but a persistent Victoria managed a shot.

Black-chested Jay (Cyanocorax affinis) is a striking bird with a good degree of swagger.

As was the case with the doves, the interplay between them was either aggression or lust, with comingling of the two behaviours it seemed.

Photo: Pam Sadler

A Roadside Hawk (Rupornis magnirostris) surveyed the world from a perch on a wire.

Manantial del Turpial was thematically appointed, and these chairs evoked the interest of all of us.

I think that Jim was trying to figure out how to stuff one in his backpack.

Photo: Pam Sadler

It would be quite a conversation piece in his family room in southern Ontario, wouldn't it?

A Pale-vented Pigeon (Patagioenas cayennensis) occupied the overhead wire when it was vacated by the Roadside Hawk.

Photo: Victoria Ho

The male Shiny Cowbird (Molothrus bonariensis) comes by its name honestly.

Photo: Victoria Ho

The female is a little more demure.

Photo: Victoria Ho

It was great to see a couple of Blue-necked Tanagers (Stilpnia cyanicollis) but they cared little for our blandishments and maintained their distance.

Photo: Victoria Ho

We had been thrilled a couple of days earlier when we saw our first Red-bellied Grackles (Hypopyrrhus pyrophogaster) ever, so we were elated when a small flock of them arrived in the garden.

Photo: Pam Sadler

We were able to observe them for much longer and at closer range. The female of the species resembles the male but is smaller in size. The allofeeding behaviour above probably is involved with courtship and pair bonding.

The birds were quite acrobatic and foraged extensively along tree branches.

Photo: Pam Sadler

An Andean Emerald (Uranomitra franciae) is an exceptionally striking hummingbird.

Photo: Victoria Ho

We were all very pleased to see a pair of Rose-breasted Grosbeaks (Pheucticus ludovicianus), like running into an old friend while on vacation.

Photo: Victoria Ho

The male seemed to be eying up the large fruit and wondering how to tackle it. Finally he had a go!

Photo: Victoria Ho

Perhaps the female was taking notes.

Photo: Victoria Ho

It appears that a hefty meal would be a just reward for the effort.

To say that a Crimson-backed Tanager (Ramphocelus dimidiatus) is a stunning bird would be a paradigm of understatement.

Photo: Pam Sadler

The silvery-white lower mandible seems almost unreal.

The whimsically named Swiss Cheese Plant (Monstera deliciosa) is very attractive.

Photo: Victoria Ho

As might be expected, Colombian Chachalaca (Ortalis colombiana) was not shy about invading the feeders.

Photo: Pam Sadler

Its food of choice seemed always to be bananas.

Pam took this great shot of a female White-lined Tanager (Tachyphonus rufus).

To be frank, I don't remember seeing this bird, but the picture is evidence that it was there.

Actually it highlights the obvious; one can only be looking in one direction at a time, so a bird out of view can easily be missed. With ten of us scanning and searching, it's doubtful that many birds escaped our scrutiny.

A Rufous-tailed Hummingbird (Amazilia tzacatl) was the very image of diminutive perfection perched on a lichen-encrusted branch.

Photo: Victoria Ho

A Scrub Tanager (Stilpnia vitriolina) was seen most days, and we rejoiced in every sighting.

Photo: Pam Sadler

The same could be said of Green Honeycreeper (Chlorophanes spiza), especially females.

Photo: Pam Sadler

The time had come for us to make the long, steep descent to the roaring rapids below where the Oilbirds awaited.

Trevor, stalwart and resolute as always, stabilized by his trusty canes made the descent with aplomb.

Here is the narrow suspension bridge we would

have to cross to see the Oilbirds.

We were all infused with a spirit of Indiana Jones derring-do as we gazed at the foaming, churning rapids!

But we were happy to see that the bridge was exceptionally well anchored!

I think that Dario is an incipient birder and he was keen to set up a scope to survey the landscape.

This is Arley, the owner of Manantial del Turpial, an avuncular fellow, ably assisted by his daughter, who was there to ensure that we all were properly equipped with a safety harness and that we received appropriate instructions.

Any connection to the exploits of Indiana Jones was beginning to fade!

Lisa, bold and brash, set out first (well, following Ernesto), and walked with a sprightly confident step to inspire confidence in all of us. Just look how cool she is.

We approached the birds one at a time, waiting for the person who had preceded us, to return.

And here was our reward. Oilbirds!

Photo: Victoria Ho

A word or two about this enigmatic species.

It breeds and roosts in deep ravines or inside caves, and forages at night. In darkness it echolocates like a bat, spending the day in near or total darkness. It feeds at night on fruit often far from its roosting sites. It is seldom seen by birders.

Photo: Victoria Ho

I had seen it once before in a cave in Trinidad where it was so dark and access so restricted that it was impossible to really see the bird. So, today was a triumph!

Photo: Victoria Ho

Victoria returned in sprightly manner, no doubt buoyed by the excellent views of this intriguing bird.

We were thrilled with the diversity of butterflies.

Graphita griphe

Smudged Crescent (Castilia cranites)

Red Peacock (Anartia amathea)

Grass Skippers (subfamily Hesperiinae)

I am grateful to Victoria for shots of three more species.

Actinote stratonice

genus Pseudohaetera

Longtails (genus Spicauda)

We climbed back up to the gardens where lunch was served, and we spent the afternoon relaxing and birding in a sedentary manner.

Remarkably, both a male and a female Andean Cock-of-the-Rock (Rupicola peruvianus) paid a visit, but our cameras did not click into action at all for the female; Victoria managed a record shot of the male.

Our only Russet-backed Oropendola (Psarocolius angustifrons) of the trip paid us a visit, and posed nicely.

A couple of Bay-headed Tanagers (Tangara gyrola) made frequent forays to the feeder, often perching momentarily on a branch before zooming over to the bananas.

Photo: Pam Sadler

The Ruddy Ground Doves continued with their antics, with perhaps a hint of debauchery thrown in for good measure.

Photo: Pam Sadler

I doubt that I could ever become blasé about toucans and toucanets, they are just so exotic. We were enchanted by this Southern Emerald Toucanet (Aulacorhynchus albivitta).

Photo: Pam Sadler

This female Flame-rumped Tanager (Ramphocelus flammigerus) was enough to set my heart aflutter, let alone the male of her species!

A couple of Black-chested Jays still hung around, scarfing down food at an amazing rate.

Photo: Pam Sadler

All good things must end and it was time to leave. However, Dario has been the driver for other ornithological quests of one kind or another, and knew of a local spot that held promise.

He was right!

A Western Cattle Egret (Ardea ibis) in high breeding plumage preened in a streamside tree.

Photo: Victoria Ho

A Black Phoebe (Sayornis nigricans) displayed its characteristic patience as it waited for insects to fly by, to be snapped up and consumed.

Photo: Victoria Ho

Meantime a tiny Torrent Tyrannulet (Serpophaga cinerea) plunged into the roiling eponymous torrent in its own quest for insect prey.

Photo: Victoria Ho

The real object of our search here was Torrent Duck (Merganetta armata), a species confined to the seething, boulder-strewn rapids of the Andes, where both adults and young display a remarkable ability to navigate the most turbulent water.