Birding in Costa Rica - Part 3

07 January, 2025

Batsú Gardens - Parque Nacional de Los Quetzales - Miriam's Quetzals Coffee Shop - Savegre Hotel 

     We began our day with a visit to the delightful Batsú Gardens. 

     A whole range of feeders greeted us, creatively arranged and attracting a splendid variety of birds.

     Predictably, Silver-throated Tanagers (Tangara icterocephala) were often first in line.

     The ubiquitous Tennessee Warbler (Leiothlypis peregrina) was never far behind, almost always heading for bananas. 

     Our cheery little friend, Rufous-collared Sparrow (Zonotrichia capensis), was a constant source of pleasure.

     Since we were in the Cordillera de Talamanca it seemed entirely appropriate that Talamanca Hummingbird (Eugenes spectabilis) was oftentimes the most observed hummingbird.

     This stunning flower (genus Malaviscus) sometimes goes by the name Turk's Cap Mallow.

     We made our way along the trails to the forested area of Batsú.

     Lesser Violetear (Colibri cyanotus) frequently seemed to pose for us - always showing his best side!

     Mountain Pawpaw (Vasconcellea pubescens) was dotted here and there throughout the landscape.

     Trail cams were strategically placed to monitor the comings and goings of wildlife.

     Tania was prepared for whatever the weather threw at her!

     These Long-waisted Wasps (genus Polybia) fascinated me and I am glad that Miriam managed to photograph them safely.

     They are sometimes known as Cushion Wasps and I was amused by Chris Alice Kratzer's wry comment, "The nests of Polybia look soft and round like cushions. They probably wouldn't work as real cushions though, since they're made of paper and usually filled with wasps (which are both bad qualities for a cushion to have.)"

     The striking beetle you see below is in the tribe Proculini; I cannot tell you more than that.

     Will you join me and sit for a while?

     As we meandered back through the forest, a small covey of Spotted Wood-Quail (Odontophorus guttatus) filled us with delight. 

     These cryptic birds of the dark recesses of the undergrowth are never easy to find and disappear as quickly as they make their presence known. 

      Known as Bouncing Balls, flowers in the genus Callianthe look like lanterns for Chinese New Year.

     Back at the feeders a Clay-coloured Thrush (Turdus grayi) took advantage of the food on offer.

     An immature male Flame-coloured Tanager (Piranga bidentata) looked quite dapper on his way to adult plumage.

     A Blue-grey Tanager (Thraupis episcopus) appears quite subdued when contrasted with some of its brilliant congeners, but it is possessed of a delicate beauty that never fails to please.

     A Sooty-capped Chlorospingus (Chlorospingus pileatus) was a nice addition to the crowd.

     There's always an added degree of interest when we see "our" birds in their winter quarters; hence we were overjoyed to see these Baltimore Orioles (Icterus galbula), male and female.

     Who knows, perhaps in May I will look out the window one day and see them in my backyard?

     A couple of Chestnut-capped Brushfinches (Arremon brunneinucha) proved extremely interesting (to say nothing of their visual attraction).

     This species typically feeds on insects and spiders picked from the leaf litter, also berries and insects gleaned from low vegetation, but what is going on with this allofeeding is a bit of a mystery. Both birds appear to be adults, so perhaps some form of courtship behaviour? 

     This little rodent (order Rodentia) checked off all the boxes for cuteness.

     A female Volcano Hummingbird (Selasphorus flammula) sipped greedily at one of the sugar water feeders.

     

     It had been a great early morning of birding and we were happy to return to the hotel for breakfast.

     All refuelled by as much food as we cared to eat, we set out for the high páramo of El Parque Nacional de Los Quetzales. 

     Communication towers dotted the highest peaks.

     They do nothing to enhance the landscape but are a necessary part of modern life.

     Chusquea (genus Chusquea) is an evergreen bamboo in the grass family, typical of high elevations, and it was the dominant form of vegetation.

     This beautiful plant is a species of Paintbrush (genus Castilleja); as far as I can determine it has no common name and is known only by its scientific nomenclature Castilla talamancensis.

     Fungi in the genus Cora were both diverse and common.

     Lichens present an ID challenge all to themselves, and while I have happily spent time trying to identify them, my results are incomplete and tentative.

Specklebelly Lichens (genus Pseudocyphellaria)

Typical Shield Lichens (subfamily Parmeliodeae)

     The sweeping vistas from our vantage point atop the Talamanca mountains were impressive.

     Stunted ground-hugging vegetation characterized this stark, treeless area, buffeted by almost constant winds and low temperatures.

     In the Dyer and Howell field guide, Birds of Costa Rica, here is the opening statement in the entry for Peg-billed Finch (Acanthidops bairdi): "Rarely encountered denizen of highland forest edge, pastures, second growth, shrubby páramo." Thanks to Carlos' intimate knowledge of the area and past success in finding this bird, we were rewarded with a "lifer" for everyone in our group.

     Miriam even managed a passable picture!

     Success and elation are not always measured by bright colours and outrageous bills!

     The weather is often foul in locations such as this, but we were blessed with a fine day.

     One of the other cherished birds of the páramo is Volcano Junco (Junco vulcani). They were both easier to find and more numerous than Peg-billed Finch.

     The landscape was variable and impressive.

     We enjoyed not only the birds, but every facet of the unique ecosystem all around us.

     These berries were attractive and resembled myriad berries on other shrubs and bushes. They are in the subfamily Vaccinioideae.

    Some of the flowers provided a striking burst of colour in a predominantly green landscape.

Groundsels and Allies (tribe Senecioneae)

     This moss was very interesting. It is in the genus Racomitrium; probably Racomitrium lanuginosum, sometimes referred to as Wooly Moss.

Bonesets, Blazingstars, and Allies (tribe Eupatoricae)

     

     Lady's-Mantles (genus Alchemilla) are characterized by their glossy, water-resistant leaves with toothed edges.

Genus Orthrosanthus - member of Irises and Allies (family Iridaceae)

     Sooty-capped Chlorospingus was becoming a fairly common sighting.

     Ruddy Treerunner (Margarornis rubiginosus) is one of the easier species of its ilk to identify.

     We did not see many lepidopterans at this elevation so it brought added satisfaction to see a Mournful Duskywing (Erynnis tristis).

     A Black-capped Flycatcher (Empidonax atriceps) was the last bird we saw before boarding the bus to head back down for lunch.

     We were going to Miriam's Quetzals Coffee Shop (no, not our Miriam), a restaurant that we have patronized before on previous trips. It is a joyful spot and we looked forward to a return visit.

     We had time before lunch to visit the balcony where hummingbirds zoomed around our heads, and all manner of other species were active at the well-stocked feeders.

     The art of luring a hummingbird to the hand is alive and well.

Kuldip with Talamanca Hummingbird (Photo: Jim Bowman)

David with Talamanca Hummingbird (Photo: Jim Bowman)

     Selwyn commented that had he not witnessed it with his own eyes, he would not have believed it. In reality, it is not hard to do.

     Acorn Woodpecker (Melanerpes formicivorus) is surely one of the most beautiful of all woodpeckers, and engaging in its behaviour too. Even its wild, other-worldly vocalizations bring a smile to the face of all who get to know them.

     The specific epithet, formicivorus, means "ant eating." This is perhaps confusing to some, given the common name of the bird, but flying insects caught on the wing, or gleaned from branches, are the principal food of this species. Acorns are a back up, although at certain times of the year assume a greater proportion of the diet.

     A familiar White-throated Mountain-Gem (Lampornis castaneoventris) sipped leisurely from a hummingbird feeder.

     We broke for a wonderful lunch of fish, chicken, rice and beans, vegetables, and salad, with delicious tree tomatoes in syrup for dessert. 

     And then we were back to birding!
    It was a great pleasure to see a couple of Large-footed Finches (Pezopetes capitalis) kicking in the leaf litter to turn up arthropod prey.

Photo: Jim Bowman

     This Rufous-collared Sparrow had lost its tail, perhaps seized by a predator who came up with only a mouthful of feathers instead of a juicy meal.

     Life is tough out there.

     A Lesser Violetear sat sedately, the subject of everyone's appreciation.

     But when you have an itch, you need to scratch it!

     It certainly wasn't a seven-year itch since hummingbird relationships do not go beyond mating. I can think of humans for whom that might have been a wise choice!

     A Blue-grey Tanager was its usual elegant self.

Photo: Jim Bowman

     I think we saw Flame-coloured Tanager, young and old, male and female, experienced adult and raw juvenile, in every stage of their always glorious plumage.

Photo: Jim Bowman

     Here is a Talamanca Hummingbird with a female Volcano Hummingbird zooming from the background.

     One could barely turn one's head without seeing a White-throated Mountain-Gem.

White-throated Mountain-Gem ♀

White-throated Mountain-Gem ♂ Photo: Jim Bowman

     Red-tailed Squirrel (Sciurus granatensis) is an engaging little animal, and handsome too.

     Like squirrels everywhere it is not shy at feeders.

     We didn't manage to take a picture of Fiery-throated Hummingbird (Panterpe insignis) from an angle that would reveal the full impact of its brilliant gorget.

     You will certainly grasp the splendour of this little gem, however.

     A Sooty Thrush (Turdus nigrescens) was subdued by contrast, but look at its eye and gasp with delight.

      Flowers did not escape our attention.

Shrub Balsam (Impatiens sodenii)

Red Angel's Trumpet (Brugmansia sanguinea)

     It seemed fitting that our final bird of the day was a mysterious owl, still begging identification.

     Thanks, Miriam, for a wonderful day.

Pura vida!