Birding in Cuba - February 2024 - Part 2

19 February, 2024

Viñales - Presa Herradura - Los Palacios - Autopista Viñales - Soroa (Botanical Gardens) - Las Terrazas (Hotel Molha) - Vaquería (Santa Rosalia) - Playa Larga

     We had breakfast and bid farewell to our Viñales hosts to embark on the long drive to Playa Larga, with various stops along the way to stretch our legs, have lunch and most importantly of all do some birding!

     One of our early stops was at a wetland alongside the main highway from Pinar del Río to Havana, normally a very productive area for us, but the water level was high and a work crew was present, so it was a bit of a disappointment.

     Virgil managed this decent shot of a Least Sandpiper (Calidris minutilla), skillfully done since the bird was at a considerable distance from where we were standing.

     Many species of egret were present and this Snowy Egret (Egretta thula) deigned to show off its yellow slippers.

     A Green Heron (Butorides virescens) by contrast stalked stealthily and remained mostly hidden in the reeds.

     Cuban agricultural practices are interesting to say the least.

     Farther along the highway we passed other ponds with an assortment of ducks, and thought we saw Greater Scaup (Aytha marila). The mere mention of the name caused Tania to bounce with excitement. "It is not usually found in Cuba," she exclaimed. "We have to go back and take pictures."

    And so we did - only to conclude, after much discussion and an examination of the pictures, that it was the entirely predictable Lesser Scaup (Aytha affinis). If two species of duck are often confused one with the other in the absence of a good look, this is the duo.

     It's always a great part of any birding trip to have a conundrum or two, a questionable sighting, a friendly disagreement, and it was wonderful to have Virgil along, a fellow dedicated birder with vast experience, to joust with and finally come to an agreement. Once we saw the pictures, this one didn't take us long to resolve.

     We stopped at some fish ponds to renew our acquaintance with Snail Kite (Rostrhamus sociabilis), an enigmatic species, and generally a very cooperative one. It did not let us down.

     Kathy is the kind of photographer who will lie on her belly in the mud, climb a tree, or hang by her toenails if that's what's required for a good shot, and she is undeniably adept at capturing all the action.

     Snail Kites feed almost exclusively on freshwater apple snails (Pomacea) which they spot while in flight, and swoop down to capture with unerring accuracy.

     This area contained egrets of every species in diverse stages of plumage, and was overall a centre of high activity.

     Onwards we pressed to the Botanical Gardens in Soroa.

     There are several guides available for visitors, but we always request Aliet who is by now like an old friend.

     She speaks excellent English, is rivetingly entertaining, and no one in the world can roll an "r" quite like she can. It's always a pleasure to see her again - and you know, I have the feeling that the pleasure is reciprocal.

     We strolled and chatted, looked and learned; had a wonderful time, in fact.

     There were ginger flowers and orchids to see.

     And, if in addition to the thirst for knowledge, a real thirst developed, fresh fruit juice could be had, squeezed or pressed right before your eyes.

     Did I mention orchids?

     Our target bird at this location is Giant Kingbird (Tyrannus cubensis). We are not always successful in locating it, so we were delighted when we found it.

     It seems always to be perched high and most (all?) of our pictures are from below. I was quite sure that Kathy would clamber up the tree to attain an eyeball-to-eyeball position, but perhaps Mike restrained her.

     She did get an excellent portrait of the endemic Cuban Oriole (Icterus melanopsis).

     This West Indian Woodpecker (Melanerpes superciliaris) was seeking food on a tree that seems already to have been extensively exploited by a sapsucker.

     We went for lunch, following which one of the highlights of the trip was on the schedule - a visit with a Stygian Owl (Asio stygius). We know where a pair has roosted for several months, but knowing the area and finding the bird is not the same thing.

    We all peered, stretched our necks, craned and scanned, searched hither then yon, back and even forth.   

     Tania spurred us on with the promise of a free Mojito to the discoverer of the owl. (Ultimately she won her own prize!)

     But there it was, a glorious sight. Many beating hearts were commanded to be still!

     A sighting of any owl, any time, is a significant event for a birder, and a source of great joy, so I will leave it to you to imagine the level of elation in our group in seeing this phantom of the night in Cuba.

     We journeyed on to Havana to drop off Manuel at his house, but not before making a brief visit to a farm to see the endemic Cuban Grassquit (Phonipara canora), of which there were many, feeding rapaciously alongside Yellow-faced Grassquits (Tiaris olivaceus).

     A Northern Mockingbird (Mimus polyglottos) was rendered no less agreeable for its familiarity.

     What would the day be without a Palm Warbler (Setophaga palmarum)?

     Once we had deposited Manuel safely at his home we hunkered down for the drive to Playa Larga. To paraphrase Robert Frost, we had miles to go and promises to keep.

     It was around 18h:45 when we arrived at our destination, and after a short interlude to freshen up, we met for dinner at Hostal Melody where I had a joyful reunion with Jose and Damita, Jose, Jr and Ellie, and my other friends there.

     It was wonderful to see everyone. It felt like being back at home.

     After dinner the resident American Barn Owls (Tyto furcata) put on a great show for us, giving everyone the thrill of a two-owl day. 

     Not bad at all!

     Photographs provided by Beth, Kathy, Tania and Virgil, with a few of my own.