Birding in Cuba - February, 2024 - Part 3

 20 February, 2024

Los Hondones - Casa Ana Birding (Playa Larga)

     I was awake early after a good night's sleep, and went down to chat with Jose and Damita et al; they really are wonderful people. It was not long before Tania strolled over to join us. It's no exaggeration to say that it's like having a Cuban family, and a close family at that. They take care of me like a pampered child!

     Take a look if you will at Damita's immaculate kitchen. 

     The amazing thing is that it never seems to look any different; always spotless. Even when there are several people preparing meals there is not the kind of clutter than I am capable of creating while preparing dinner for two!

     As we waited for the others staying in different homes to join us, Jovany washed the vehicle.

     We had but a short way to go to Los Hondones, much to the relief of everyone no doubt, following the long journey yesterday.

     It was our plan to visit Tania's house, ultimately having lunch there, and we alighted from the bus to stroll along the road, enjoying the morning sun and listening and looking for birds.

     Of course, we are always interested in all facets of nature and were curious as to the identity of this small lizard. I have been unable to come up with a conclusive identification, but think it is a species of anole (genus Anolis).

     Cuba has only two regularly-occurring hummingbirds - the Bee Hummingbird (Melisuga helenae) of world renown, and the larger, less flashy Cuban Emerald (Ricordia ricordii).

     It is a paradigm of iridescent beauty, nevertheless. Moreover, it is widespread and much easier to see than Bee Hummingbird.

     A Northern Mockingbird (Mimus polyglottos) seems quite pedestrian by comparison.

     The enchantment of a Cuban Tody (Todus multicolor) is never diminished.

     It is similarly always delightful to come upon a Cuban Green Woodpecker (Xiphidiopicus percussus).

     Great Lizard Cuckoo (Coccyzus merlini) is not uncommon, but it is an impressive bird, and never failed to elicit sighs of admiration whenever we saw it.

     Our good friend, Adonis, has a house just along the road from Tania, and has many interesting projects underway there.

     Among them is a colony of stingless bees, producing a copious volume of super-sweet, delicious honey.

     We were all invited to sample the sweet liquid, and I don't think anyone passed up the chance to sip honey straight from the hive.

     The taste was unbelievably good. I confess to going back for a second sip...okay, gulp.

     We were an attentive group in the garden.

     Here is another Cuban Emerald.

     Worm-eating Warbler (Helmitheros vermivorum) causes great excitement in Ontario when a vagrant shows up once in a proverbial blue moon, but in Cuba it may be seen in a backyard.

     Blue-headed Quail-Dove (Starnoenas cyanocephala) is an endemic genus, formerly widespread but now drastically reduced. It is shy and retiring, wary of humans, having been extensively hunted, and it escapes the attention of many a visiting birder to Cuba.

     In the oasis of calm that Tania has created at her house it comes to her feeders!

     A Zenaida Dove (Zenaida aurita) is far more common.

     Cuban Trogon (Priotelus temnurus) is Cuba's national bird, receiving this honour by virtue of displaying the colours of the flag.

     While we were enjoying ourselves watching birds, others were hard at work preparing lunch, a key ingredient of which was homemade tamales.

     What you see above is the "A" team, with Falgis, Adonis' wife, clearly in command.

     Members of the "B" team were willing to help, anxious even, but good intentions didn't make for efficiency, and they were summarily dismissed!

    Yellow-faced Grassquits (Tiaris olivaceus) seem to have claimed Tania's garden as their own, and were omnipresent and vocal. Do you think that this male was pleading for a little of the corn being ladled into the  tamales?

     A female was not quite as forward.

     A very handsome Northern Curly-tailed Lizard (Leiocephalus carinatus), basking in the sun on the wall, was an appealing addition to our garden party.

     At home we stalk the dense litter on the forest floor to find Ovenbird (Seiurus aurocapilla), and congratulate ourselves on our infrequent success; in a Cuban backyard they almost walk around your feet!

     A Western Spindalis (Spindalis zena) is the kind of bird that guarantees a second look.

     A Cuban Pewee (Contopus caribaeus) is a perky, active little bird, easy to see and always enchanting.

     A Common Ground Dove (Columbina passerina) is equally delectable in its subdued, elegant way.

      A Red-legged Thrush (Turdus plumbeus) is, to my eye, the most handsome member of its genus.

     Could we ever tire of a West Indian Woodpecker (Melanerpes superciliaris)?

     Before long it was time to eat; this bird-watching business is after all strenuous work.

     Chino and Jona made a fabulous lunch for us, with much help from Falgis and Jovany and we all enjoyed it very much.

     After lunch we went to an adjacent area where the karst formation is very evident and there is a fairly large cenote. Alan explained the geology of it all in exquisite detail, much to the delight of everyone; context really is everything, sometimes.

     On the way we glanced at the trees and a few Cuban Amazons (Amazona leucocephalus) enlivened our journey.

     It was time to return to Playa Larga and we boarded the bus for the short journey "home." Siesta time until 16h:00. Yippee!

     Fully rested, fueled with an expresso made by Jose, we went to Casa Ana Birding, where great sightings of Bee Hummingbird are as predictable as a lie coming out of a politician's mouth.

     The big lenses were cocked and ready.

     Here is a whole gallery of pictures. I have nothing to add that could enhance the breathtaking beauty of this, the world's smallest bird. Feel free to add your own superlatives.

 

     I would be remiss, however, if I did not point out that on the following picture the gradations on the syringe are 5mm (thank you, Alan) so you can quickly gauge the size of the Bee Hummingbird.

     When one is privileged to witness a tiny Bee Hummingbird in the splendour of its natural environment; in effect in its special corner of the world, it is cause for gut-wrenching despair that it is suffering greatly from habitat destruction. Have we really become so rapacious that even beauty at this level ceases to generate awe and wonderment? Do we value biodiversity so little that we become willing participants in the termination of nature, in the endangerment and extinction of other life forms on Planet Earth? It is a rhetorical question, of course; the answer is a resounding, "Yes!"

     E.O. Wilson, writing in The Diversity of Life states: "Those who have studied the database most carefully agree that human activity, which has raised the species extinction rate a thousand times over prehuman level, threatens to extinguish or bring to the brink of extinction half of all the species surviving into this century."

     A terrifying prospect.

     Black-throated Blue Warbler (Setophaga caerulescens) was pleasingly common and proved itself very fond of sugar water.

      As might be expected, Cuban Emerald did not cede all the space to its smaller cousin.

     Northern Parula (Setophaga americana) will soon be making its way to Ontario to breed, and it will often be frustratingly difficult to find. By contrast we sometimes saw them two or three at a time, vying for a spot at the feeders.

     West Indian Woodpecker was always a great favourite.

     It too had a decidedly sweet tongue.

     In the lagoon at the end of the garden, a Yellow-crowned Night Heron (Nyctanassa violacea) was a very agreeable addition to our afternoon's birding.

     I suspect that Jovany knew of a pair of nesting Cuban Pygmy Owls (Glaucidium siju) based on previous visits to Casa Ana's, but it was no less exciting when he was able to point them out to us.

     The owl is beautiful, but this is what you don't see.

     The problem of proliferating trash is not endemic to Cuba, but it is a serious issue. Not only does it mar the landscape it poses serious environmental concerns. It would behoove Cuban scientists, ornithologists, local activists and others to mount a sustained campaign to address this 21st Century blight. It is of diminished benefit to conserve habitat for nature while continuing to create a landscape filled with plastic and other dangerous waste. A massive public education effort is urgently needed.

    I am reminded of the words of Farley Mowat: "We are like yeasts in a vat - mindlessly multiplying as we greedily devour a finite world. If we do not change our ways we will perish as the years perish - having exhausted our sustenance and poisoned ourselves in the lethal brew of our own wastes."

     We returned to our various homes and Beth took a shot of the dining area at Hostal Melody before the tables were set for dinner.

     Ernesto (our great friend and Tania's husband) arrived with a group of birders and it was wonderful to see him again.

     We had invited a local musical group to provide entertainment for us, which they did in fine style. Usually we have lots of pictures of the merriment, but the cameras were silent tonight. 

     This picture, taken by Beth, is the only one I am able to share.

     One of Ernesto's clients had brought a violin with him and quickly joined the group and fell right into their tempo and style. It was all very enjoyable.

     And perhaps best of all, the American Barn Owls (Tyto furcata) put on quite a show for us, with the young bird patiently waiting for an adult to bring food.

     Momma showed up, but without a juicy rodent. 

     I suspect that the young bird may be at the end of its pampered existence when food is delivered, and may have to strike out on its own to make a living. Independence is achieved at around seventy-five days, but of course we have no idea when the youngster was born. 

     As for us, we went to bed with full bellies, knowing that tomorrow morning breakfast will be served and we'll be waited on hand and foot all over again.

     Such is the lot of a spoiled and coddled birder!

Photographs provided by Alan, Anne, Beth, Kathy, Mike, Tania and Virgil. Thank you all.