Birding in Cuba - November, 2023 - Part 7

 26 November, 2023

Trinidad - Cayo Coco

     Dawn was breaking over the city.

     Just imagine a pleasant sunny morning, the temperature in the low twenties, plants all around, flowers ablaze, history out of the corner of both eyes - and breakfast.

     That's how our morning began!

     In the meantime the world went about its business.

     We bade a grateful goodbye to our hosts and followed our luggage to the bus where Jovany awaited us.

     Vignettes of Cuban life greeted us with every step we took.

     In no time at all we were on our way.

     There was always evidence of industrious people doing what they need to do to make a living.

     We had a couple of target birds to find en route to Cayo Coco. First on the list was the near-endemic Palm Crow (Corvus palmarum), a species with scattered distribution, but known to favour an area near Trinidad known as "La 23." 

    It is visually very similar to Cuban Crow (Corvus nasicus) but unlike that species prefers to land on the ground. With a bird in the hand one may also discern a difference in bill shape, and the configuration of nasal bristles. Its vocalizations are quite distinct too.

     Iconoclasts not especially interested in such arcane matters, might easily dismiss this bird as "just another crow." For those of us daffy about birds and all that pertains to them, a confirmed sighting ranks only slightly below ecstasy (feel free to fill in your own special memory of ecstasy - self-censorship not required)!

     An American Kestrel (Falco sparverius) was perhaps quite bemused by our obvious excitement!

     Our other target was Giant Kingbird (Tyrannus cubensis), a species that had failed to display in the orchid gardens a few days earlier. In no time at all, it was in the bag (so to speak), and Brian memorialized it with a great shot.

     I forget who it was that commented, with scientific precision, "Look at that great big honkin' beak," but that provided the unequivocal proof I needed.

     A couple of birds of the distinctive race of Cuban Meadowlark (Sturnella magna) was very agreeable.

     Genetic analysis and other data indicate strongly that this might warrant elevation to full species status - perhaps an example of speciation on an island, occurring in real time.

     From time to time, as might be expected, we needed a washroom stop, and attendants were happy to receive a little change; but ladies beware toilet seats are a rarity!

     On occasion, however, toilet paper was provided!

     As we crossed the causeway from the main island to Cayo Coco I was surprised to see a couple of Sandwich Terns (Thalasseus sanvicencis) but a review of the literature indicates that it is not as unusual as I had thought, but it is mainly a summer visitor. 

     Upon arrival at our destination on Cayo Coco the first order of business was to seek out West Indian Whistling Duck (Dendrocygna arborea), one of the few "lifers" left for me in Cuba, and they were waiting, as though we had agreed on an appointed hour.

     It's a very handsome bird and I was enthusiastic about making its acquaintance.

     Since there is no alternative to an all-inclusive resort on Cayo Coco we checked into one that had served as a base for birding groups for several years.

     All inclusive is an apt term for resorts more than a few years old - included are patio doors that don't open, faucets that spin merrily in your hand, hot water that isn't - and so it goes. I longed for the quiet serenity of Jose and Damita's home, but that will have to wait for next time.

      Tania and I agreed that for my next tour (next month already) we will upgrade to a newer resort, a five star no less, where the passage of time has not yet permitted inattention and lack of regard for maintenance. Fingers crossed!

     Lunch was a fine affair with a wide choice from the buffet, as long as you didn't cling to the notion that your hot food would be hot. But there was excellent blue cheese, and olives, with bread that wasn't bad at all, and that served me well. 

     Northern Mockingbird (Mimus polyglottos) was very common, always welcome, always lovely.

     American Kestrels are incredibly confiding in Cuba.

     Most of us went for a short excursion on the bus, seeing among other delights little groups of Roseate Spoonbills (Platalea ajaja). 

     They were never really close, and quite skittish, but Lorraine captured this group, most engaged in preening.

     We were searching for Bahama Mockingbird (Mimus gundlachii) - and search we did - but without success.

     Blue-grey Gnatcatcher (Polioptila caerulea) was accepted graciously by all as a consolation prize. 

     Somewhere along the way Stewart took this picture, through the window,  of a Cuban Black Hawk (Buteogallus gundlachii) in all its regal splendour.

     We returned to the resort where some opted to go to the beach or just relax for an hour or two, and some of us went to an area known as The Cave. The birding there was quite wonderful, but the mosquitos were especially nasty and numerous. Warblers were abundant, no doubt attracted by these very insects that plagued us.

     In Ontario a backyard warbler is a bit of a rarity in itself, and I have never seen one avail itself of a bird bath; but migrants to Cuba seem behaviourily different once they arrive from the north.

     Here is a remarkable shot of a Black-and-white Warbler (Mniotilta varia), a female Black-throated Blue Warbler (Setophaga caerulescens) and a Worm-eating Warbler (Helmitheros vermivorum) bathing and drinking together.

     A little closer.....

     ..... and a stunning close-up of a Worm-eating Warbler.

     On the ground a Zenaida Dove (Zenaida aurita) and a Common Ground Dove (Columbina passerina) agreed to share spilled food peaceably.

     The bugs were voracious, it was past 17h:00, and the thought of a quick shower and a Pina Colada was irresistible, so off we sped to Sol Cayo Coco.

     It was the twilight of another great day!

Photographic credits: Tania, Brian, Lorraine, Stewart, Mary Ann, Andrew