Back Home Again

 "People ask you why you live in Cuba and you say it is because you like it. It is too complicated to explain about the early morning in the hills above Havana, where every morning is cool and fresh on the hottest day in summer. You do not have to tell them about the strange and lovely birds that are on the farm year-round, nor about all the migratory birds that come through.........."

Ernest Hemingway

     I returned, literally just a few hours ago, from another eminently successful trip to Cuba, where new memories were made, friendships cemented, wine drunk and good food relished.

    I even saw two bird species I had never seen before.

    More - much more - will follow in the days ahead, but I wanted to let all my blogging friends know that I am back!

    Hasta luego queridos amigos.

Birding in Cuba - November, 2023 - Part 10 (Final)

29 November, 2023

Cayo Coco - Santa Clara - Havana

     We had breakfast at the resort and were pulling away by 08h:30.

     A few reflections on Sol Cayo Coco, if I may.

     So often, these all-inclusive Cuban resorts start out in opulent fashion, but deterioration sets in almost immediately and even the most basic maintenance is ignored. In our room, for example, the sliding door to the balcony did not open without manhandling it along the track. Each time this took place the handle was separated from its anchor a little farther, and the left side of the door frame was splitting. A couple of the lights were out and something as basic as replacing the bulbs was ignored. The bathroom was shoddy and poorly maintained, the toilet seat was loose and slid sideways, water in the shower was barely at a trickle, and hot water (well, warm) appeared after about ten minutes. Cleaning in the rooms was negligible or non-existent. Several in our group had safes that did not work, but none were fixed despite repeated requests. Occasionally, not one person, but two, were sent to a room, where they seemed to have deep consultation before leaving, and that was the end of it. No action followed, no repair was attempted, everything remained the same.

     This is in total contrast to a casa particular where everything was spotless and well cared for, and any request was speedily and efficiently dealt with.  

     Our journey proceeded smoothly and we stopped at a restaurant in Santa Clara for lunch. This was a splendid location with a wide choice of food - possibly the best restaurant we had patronized in Cuba. Without exception, everyone was impressed and delighted with the quality and selection.

     Along the way, we stopped at a roadside memorial to a good friend of Jovany's who had, if I am not mistaken, been killed in a road accident, and the custom is to light a cigar in memory of the cherished friendship.

     I am never quite sure whether photography is appropriate in such circumstances, and I would not wish to be disrespectful of the traditions of others, but Jovany assured me that no transgression would be committed. He was patently moved by the experience of greeting and remembering his lost companion.

     We made a brief stop at Jaguëey Grande to visit Tania's parents and to collect Rocío who would be spending time in Havana.

     In her usual efficient way, Rocío had made coffee for us - much enjoyed by everyone.

     We bade goodbye to Tania's mother and mother-in-law and resumed our journey to Havana.

     Take a moment to contemplate the changes they have seen in Cuba during their lives. This island has been at the centre of history for almost as long as I can remember, and its people have been subjected to gross injustice and hardship from within and without.

     In Havana we stayed at the Azul Habana hotel, a delightful old establishment, in the heart of town. Our rooms were very comfortable.

     Dinner was enjoyed at a restaurant directly opposite, Habana 61 it is called, where they seemed to have mastered the art of cooking fish to perfection.

     Everyone enjoyed their dinner and the meticulous service of the attentive staff. Good company was a given.

     Andrew had brought Christmas hats from Canada  and Mariana took great delight in wearing hers.

     Mariana could wear a cup and saucer on her head and still look terrific! Some people just have it all!

     If you needed to find the washrooms, the signage left no doubt as to which door you should open.

     Brian, Karl and I went with Mariana and her friend who had joined us for dinner, to have a nightcap in a club high above Havana; a fine way to end a wonderful day.

30 November, 2023

Havana - Varadero - Home

     Breakfast was taken at the rooftop restaurant at our hotel. A steep, spiral staircase has to be scaled to get there, but it is a stimulating experience to be high above the city streets and watch them come alive.

     Renovations were taking place.

     Here's what it might soon look like.

     Laundry was being hung out to dry.

     The pulse of Havana was quickening.

     We embarked on a tour of the city with that most consummate and personable of guides - our very own, Mariana. Little commentary is required from me, but there are pictures to enjoy.

     Children played and exercised in the city square.

     Pigeons found a roost.

     This veteran was proud of his service to The Revolution and displayed his medals.

     This seems to have been an act of inspiration for Karl!

     We were a happy group.

     This was the original water intake canal for the City of Havana.

     Obedient little children followed their leaders.

     Street musicians were ubiquitous.

     Colourful ladies enlivened the plazas.

     Your future can be revealed to you, by a fortune teller guaranteed to know all.

     José Mariá López Lledín, known as El Caballero de Paris, wandered the streets of Havana in the 20th Century dispensing wisdom, and is celebrated with this statue.

     His beard and left hand bear the marks of people touching him, as though to receive some element of benediction.

     Nature may be discovered and explored in any city, but an American Yellow Warbler (Setophaga aestiva) was a distinct surprise.

     A Rock Dove (Columba livia) was more predictable.

     There were monuments and grand buildings. History was told in bricks and mortar.

     Sometimes you just need a rest.

     House Sparrow (Passer domesticus), that cosmopolitan urbanite, was right at home in Havana.

     A Malachite (Siproeta stelenes) was graceful and beautiful.

     One could not go far without being reminded of the enduring affection for Ernesto "Che" Guevara, the very prototype of a hero of the revolution.

     Mariana glistened in ways that only Mariana can.

     Sorry, Che, but I think she has you beat!

     One of the highlights of our visit is to ride in vintage American cars on a tour of the city.

     How pleasant to cruise along El Malecón.

     The imposing building on the right in the picture above was a hotel once owned by the notorious American gangster Al Capone, in the days when Havana was controlled and run by organized crime syndicates.

     We drove through Chinatown. 

     Oh, the joy of it all.

     Lunch was a fine affair.

     After lunch we returned to our hotel where we had time for a little respite before we had to board the bus for the trip to Varadero.

     We assembled outside until until everyone was ready for the short walk to where Jovany awaited.

     We said good bye to Tania and Mariana since they would be remaining in Havana for a couple of days, and had a very smooth ride to the airport, to wait to board our flight.

     It was time to go home.

     

     Thanks as always to Andrew, Mary Ann, and Tania for the use of their pictures. Surprisingly many photographs in this report are mine.