Birding in Cuba - February, 2023 - Part 2

11 February, 2023

Viñales - Laguna "Presa Hernadura" - Autopista Habana-Pinar - Soroa Orquideario - Niña Bonita Dam - Zapata

     We had an early breakfast at 06h:00 and were on the road by 06h:30 having bid farewell to our hospitable hosts who had taken care of us so well.

     Our first stop was at a lake alongside the highway where the birdlife was plentiful and varied.

     One of our first species was Eastern Meadowlark (Sturnella magna),  the Cuban race being a candidate for elevation to full species status as previously indicated.

     Purple Gallinule (Porphyrio martinica) is quite a common wetland species, but despite its colourful appearance it can at times be hard to see.

    Green Heron (Butorides virescens) was familiar to all; it reveals itself more readily than many other wetland species.

     Least Bittern (Ixobrynchus exilis) is extremely difficult to observe, especially on territory when it blends into the reeds so perfectly as to disappear in plain sight. We were thus very happy to view this individual, who skulked away after granting us an audience of a minute or two.

     Perhaps the biggest surprise was to see a Tricoloured Munia (Lonchura malacca), an introduced species with origins in the cagebird trade. Native to Peninsular India and Sri Lanka it has become well established in Cuba and is apparently expanding its range.

     Everyone enjoyed Tania's company and respected her skill, patience and guidance, and listened when she spoke. Her familiarity with the birds and the locations we visited were instrumental in our outstanding successes. 

     The bird below is a King Rail (Rallus elegans).

     Let me put this sighting in perspective for you. I had in my entire life seen one King Rail about thirty years ago on Padre Island, TX, USA, when it darted out of a dense reed bed and darted back in again almost immediately. That was the sum total of my experience with this bird. No one else in our group had ever seen even one. 

     On this morning, in a marsh alongside a busy

 four-lane highway in western Cuba, I saw five!

     I am not sure if I did a happy dance, but if I did it was justified!

     It was hard to get excited about an Osprey (Pandion haliaetus)!

     A Snail Kite (Rostrhamus sociabilis) is another matter entirely. This food specialist has such a restricted diet comprised almost exclusively of snails in the genus Pomacea that it can only be seen where its prey exists. Snails are deftly plucked from the water's surface and the specialized hooked bill is used to extract the nutritious meat.

     I was quite euphoric to renew my acquaintance with this enigmatic species.

     A Litle Blue Heron (Egretta caerulea) and a Great Egret (Ardea alba) are familiar denizens of the wetland.

     Here they are joined by a Snowy Egret (Egretta thula) and a Neotropic Cormorant (Nannopterum brasilianum).

     We had searched valiantly for Yellow-breasted Crake (Laterallus flaviventer) without success. I'll be back in Cuba in November and we'll try again!

     It was time to move on to the Orchid Gardens in Soroa.

     This was a lovely spot where we had the services of a very entertaining guide. The orchids, and many other plants for that matter, are cultivated so I will not try to identify them all, but will intersperse the pictures throughout so that you can appreciate the incredible beauty.

      The following plant is called Elephant-ear (Family Araceae) if I am not mistaken, introduced from Asia and widely distributed through the tropics.

     Mariana couldn't resist a smell or two.

     Pollinators were hard at work.

     It is an oxymoron to state that every flower is beautiful, but we oohed and aahed from one to another,

     We followed our leader along the paths, taking in the sights and sounds.

     It goes without saying that we were looking for birds, and a Red-legged Honeycreeper (Cyanerpes cyaneus) delighted us all.

     A Scaly-naped Pigeon (Patagioenas leucocephala) was equally appealing.

     Did I mention there were flowers?

     And more flowers.

     Everywhere one looked it was both interesting and appealing.

     Perhaps not even Mariana is as gorgeous as some of these blooms - though some might contest that point.

     The woman to the right and behind Mariana is our beguiling and very knowledgeable guide. She was tuned into birds as well as plants.

     Our target bird here was the endemic Giant Kingbird (Tyrannus cubensis) and we were not long in finding it. 

     It is quite massive when compared to other kingbirds, with a large, heavy bill.

     Orchids, honeycreepers, kingbirds, warblers....happiness squared, and followed by fruit.

     I think we all tried a drink of one kind or another.

     Everything was delicious.

     I am pretty sure that no one opted for rum in the Piña Colada in the middle of the morning, but who can say?

     Given a chance I suspect this West Indian Woodpecker (Melanerpes superciliaris) would have welcomed a sip of sweet juice, or the meat from a coconut.

     Western Spindalis (Spindalis zena) was always appreciated by everyone.

     And a  Red-legged Thrush (Turdus plumbeus) came to wish us goodbye.

            The next stop on our itinerary as we nosed along towards Zapata, was the Niña Bonita Dam.

      An American Coot (Fulica americana) plied the water as coots are prone to do.

     A Green Heron (Butorides virescens) searched for prey.

     And I am sure I heard this Spotted Sandpiper (Actitis macularius) say, "See you in Ontario in April."

     A Snowy Egret skimming over the water displayed its yellow slippers.

     We stopped for lunch at a restaurant along the highway, but they had lost power so the menu was limited to what they could grill. As I recall, they did well, and we did not suffer!

     We still had a long drive ahead of us, so Jiovani rounded us all up and we set our sights on the great Ciénaga de Zapata, a mystical land of swamps, bayous, lagoons and birds!

     En route we stopped to visit Tania's parents briefly and to drop off Mariana. We were joined by my old friend, Adonis, and it was wonderful to see him again.

     Tania had invited him to spend a few days with us.

     We arrived at our casa particular, our home for the next several nights, and were treated to the sheer elation of a welcoming Cuban Treefrog (Osteopilus septrionalis).

     Little did we know how happy we would be here, how the proprietors would become firm friends; how we would be genuinely sorry to say goodbye.

     I'll tell you more in the next installment.