Saturday, May 04, 2024

Birding in Cuba - February, 2024 - Part 11 (Final)

28 February, 2024
Havana

     As is customary at the end of our Cuban adventure, we spent a day touring the old city of Havana, one of the most interesting and remarkable cities in the world.  It is a microcosm of the Caribbean, yet unique too, with stories of love and war, success and failure, soaring ambition and crashing disappointment, dreams come true and dreams broken, but most of all it represents a triumph of the human spirit. 
     As always our beautiful Mariana was our superb guide and bonne vivante, bringing pleasure to every moment.


     How fortunate we are to enjoy her company.
     I should caution you now that this post will have many pictures, but there is a great deal to show you. Even at that, I had to make choices from the multitude of photographs submitted by my fellow travellers. There are more - many more!
     There are always colourful street scenes to amuse passers-by.


     Cuban street art, and art for sale, is on display throughout the city.


     I have no doubt that Che will remain an inspiration for the people of Cuba, for all time. In fact his stature as an iconic Hero of the Revolution will only be enhanced with the passage of years. 


     Interesting streets meandered and crisscrossed. We walked them all, fascinated by throbbing life in all its varied manifestations.
     Sometimes high tech security was deemed necessary to protect valuables.


     Mostly the city was extremely clean, even in those neighbourhoods where people were struggling.


     Music seems to be a component of the very life blood of Cuba, and street musicians were everywhere, charming us with their joyful, addictive rhythm.



     I think we all learned to walk and tap our toes at the same time!
      Indoors there were musicians too.


     Fresh fruit and vegetables anyone?


     Do you think this wiring would pass inspection in Canada?


     There are grand squares and impressive buildings.




     Some of the walls contain fossils, a reminder of the distant past.


      There was a perfumery where the science and the cosmetic nature of scents came together, and if I am not mistaken Kathy made a purchase there.


      Beth and Linda appeared curious about something.


      Alan took a break and Kathy strolled by.


     Simón Bolívar is equally a hero in Cuba as in South America.


     The main square was used by children doing their morning calisthenics under the watchful eye of their teacher.


     Mariana was seeking good fortune from El Caballero de Paris, and hedged her bets by tugging on both his beard and his hand.


     A group shot is always good.



     Mariana ensured that we got a glimpse of every aspect of Cuban life.


      Ernest Hemingway, arguably the grandest of all American authors, has a long association with Havana, and for the most part resided at the Ambos Mundos Hotel. On previous visits we have viewed the exterior but on this occasion we ventured inside.


     In the lobby a pianist was playing Chopin nocturnes with a good level of sensitivity. It seemed a shame that such talent was reduced to playing for tourists willing to toss a little money his way.

      I know that Tania and I were generous and no doubt some of the others were too.  
     There was an imposing elevator, of the style that used to be common in department stores, staffed by an attendant who called out the contents of the floors at each stop.
 


     It was fun to ride to the top of the building.


     It was quite a view looking down from the top.


     I think it was Virgil who pondered wistfully whether the elevator had been serviced since Hemingway stumbled into it from the bar up the street! We did not let such thoughts spoil the pleasure of our experience!
     The views from the roof were impressive and we had Mariana to point out the landmarks.





     Lunch was taken at a very agreeable outdoor café.


     A cold beer was the choice of several thirsty tourists!


     It had been a very enjoyable morning and we returned to our hotel to relax before embarking on our tour of the city in vintage convertibles.
     Mike was particularly taken with this red car.



         Linda enjoyed chatting to her driver.


     At the Plaza de la Revolucíon we were able to switch cars for the ride back.


     Gasoline was in short supply and limited to 40 litres per vehicle, and long lines were a standard part of life in the city.


     We took dinner at the same restaurant where we had eaten lunch, and it was very agreeable indeed.


     A seat along the Champs Elysée in Paris could not have been more pleasant.
     A brief excursion to experience Havana at night was an entirely satisfactory end to a very satisfying day.


     The following image seems to portray a contest - my bumpers are bigger than yours, and certainly reinforces the reasons for generally referring to a car as "her!"



     Havana sparkled.




     The air was balmy; the city was alive.



     A blissful night's sleep was all that remained - and we knew exactly where to get that!

29 February, 2024
National Botanic Garden - Varadero - Pearson International Airport - Home

     A narrow spiral staircase took us up to the rooftop where we had breakfast.


     It was a great way to welcome the day.
     Soon we were off to visit the National Botanic Garden where I hoped to find Gundlach's Hawk (Accipiter gundlachi), a species that had eluded me on all my visits to Cuba.


     What would a botanic garden be without flowers?


     Or palms?



     As you might expect, a group of birders was often gazing upwards.


     A Loggerhead Kingbird (Tyrannus caudifasciatus) was the object of our adoration on this occasion!


     Our Palm Warbler (Setophaga palmarum) du jour was faithful, as always.


     A West Indian Woodpecker (Melanerpes supercilliaris) conducted a home-building workshop for us all to enjoy.




     I am grateful to Virgil for this excellent shot of what I am pretty sure is an endemic Cuban butterfly, Calisto herophile.


     And now we come to the object of our search, the aim of our mission - Gundlach's Hawk. Tania and Ernesto knew that a pair had been reported breeding in the Botanic Garden, and suddenly there they were.


     For the most part the pair was flying to and from the nest and generally well hidden when perched, but patience and persistence paid of for Kathy when she achieved this great shot.
     To give you a sense of how significant this sighting is, let me quote from Graeme Gibson's experience of the bird, taken from his exquisite work The Bedside Book of Birds (2005).

"Later that morning, just off an old logging road, Garrido pointed to a tangle of sticks about twelve metres up in a nondescript tree. It was the nest of a Gundlach's Hawk, with the white and wooly shape of a nestling on its edge. Discovered just two days earlier, it was only the fourth official nesting site in the twentieth century. 
As we circled to the other side we saw the adult's rounded tail, then the whole bird. Watching us out of a cautious red eye, she'd frozen completely. Although her throat trembled, she didn't even blink.
The Gundlach's is a fine strong bird, much like our Cooper's Hawk. It is an endangered species endemic to Cuba, and only a handful of other people had ever seen one on the nest. All of us I think were sobered; certainly we were quiet."

     A memorable encounter with the endemic subspecies of Eastern Meadowlark (Sturnella magna) was a suitable conclusion to a very successful visit.


     We drove back into central Havana and had lunch. Tania had arranged a late checkout for us, so we were able to enjoy siesta before leaving for Varadero.
      Goodbyes were difficult, but we had had a fine trip, and were leaving with memories for a life time.
      Jovany did his usual masterful job of driving and in no time at all it seemed we were at the airport.


     Time to go home!

     This ends the account of our Cuban odyssey and it would be a grave omission if I did not express my appreciation to an outstanding group of travelling companions who made each day a pleasure. Thank you all for joining me on this trip. Thanks are due also to Tania, Mariana, Ernesto, Rocío, Jovany, and all the other Cubans who took such good care of us, and left us with nothing but warmth and affection for them and their country.
     It would be the gravest omission of all were I not to thank my dear wife, Miriam, for cheerfully taking care of things at home while I was off having fun. She has done it more than once.
     Photo credits: Beth, Kathy, Tania, Virgil.  
David M. Gascoigne,
David M. Gascoigne,

I'm a life long birder. My interests are birds, nature, reading, books, outdoors, travel, food and wine.

70 comments:

  1. ...all good things come to an end.Give me a 1950's bumper any day!

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  2. An amazing trip it was indeed !
    Gorgeous pictures and souvenirs !
    Have a shinny weekend David !
    Anna

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  3. What a wonderful trip you had. I would love to see Havanna, those fauloua cars, and all of the remarkable places and faces you saw - and evidently good food, too. Not to mention the memorable birds which you were able to see, just fabulous. And perhaps Miriam was happy to have the place to herself for a few days!? Whatever, you all enjoyed your time! Have a great weekend, hugs, Valerie xxxxxxx

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    1. Six times to Cuba already and I would go back in a heartbeat.

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  4. Hello,
    What a fantastic end to your Cuba trip! I enjoyed every single photos. The birds were a bonus too. Have a great weekend.

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  5. What a fabulous trip with so much to see. Neat to see the Meadowlark too. I love the song they sing here in Florida. Happy weekend!

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  6. truly amazing trip and I enjoyed every moment. never to many pictures for me. I do hope these lovely people you meet there can see themselves on your blog. I am wondering if they are allow internet and can see your blog.. I can't pick a favorite, but lean a little towards the night lights photos. awesome. love the cars, they cars of my youth. those narrow streets and buildings are amazing

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    1. They are able to access the internet without impediment.

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  7. Thank you so much for showing me things I will probably never see for myself.

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    1. If you promise to come, Sue, I’ll organize another trip!

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  8. Even the most wonderful trip comes to its end - and you sure had a very special trip, David. I enjoyed all the photos in this post. I imagine the music in the streets of Havanna as very lively and I'm sure that I would thoroughly enjoy that. The interesting wiring reminds me of the outdoor wiring at some buildings in Akko - improvising is an art form there. And I'm so glad that you found the Gundlach's Hawk - what a special gift at the end of this memorable journey. All the best - Carola

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  9. Wow, wow a thousand times wow!
    What an amazing trip.

    I've thoroughly enjoyed every Cuba post, your narration and everybody's photographs.
    A big THANK YOU.

    All the best Jan

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  10. What a good end to the trip. Spectacular bird records, all pretty birds, even the rare raptor. The best thing is the historic center, it is perhaps the American city with the greatest architectural resemblance to Spain. I have never seen anything so similar to current buildings. In South America there are other older styles, perhaps some isolated buildings in large cities like Buenos Aires could resemble them.
    A big hug

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  11. Havana looks like a charming city. Too bad it has been so off limits to US folks. You do pull of a great trip for those who sign up with you.

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  12. I would love to visit Cuba. Havana looks like a very grand city. And that your trip ended in a nice way. Plus that botanical garden looks lovely, and of course, very tropical. I had an exciting bird day. Not only did I see my first hummingbird for the season, a bluebird pair finally has decided to nest in my bluebird house. Mama kept going back and forth building her nest today while Dad kept his eyes open for any unwelcome visitors. I hope I get to see the fledglings when they hatch and fly out of the nest. Enjoy the rest of your weekend. hugs-Erika

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    1. I have yet to see a hummingbird this spring, but bluebirds seem to be everywhere. Congratulations on having a pair take up residence - a special treat indeed.

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  13. Wonderful tour. I have enjoyed all of your reports of the Cuban trip, especially the Cuban birds.

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    1. It would be a fabulous place for you to visit, Dorothy.

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  14. I think seeing people wandering down the street on stilts and colorful outfits was the most unexpected--lol! What a wonderful trip. Some of those buildings are so beautiful...especially lit up at night. :)

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  15. How I loved seeing these photos, all are excellent, love the night ones of the buildings, the old cars were looking good, and of course the creatures.

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  16. I have been sick the last days, so I have not visited your blog until today. I have enjoyed your trip to Cuba and all the beautiful photos. I can understand why you visit Cuba so often, because it looks like a very friendly and beautiful country. The birds are pretty and the flowers too! The Bougainvillea photo was superb!
    Hugs and kisses, Marit

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    1. Glad you are feeling better, Marit. Hugs and kisses - David

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    2. Thank you, David. I'm feeling much better. Hugs and kisses, Marit

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  17. What a great photo report of your trip to Cuba.
    I really like the loggerhead bird, the palm warbler, the West Indian woodpecker and the eastern meadowlark.
    All good things eventually come to an end, at least you have beautiful photos as a memory.
    Greetings Irma

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  18. Hari Om
    Simply outstanding...YAM xx

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  19. Hi David – the woman with the cigar is just extraordinary … amazing – stands out. Your cars - yes seem to be 'she's' you're so right there. While the flowers – surely they're bracts – with a few tiny flowers popping out.

    The Meadowlark is beautiful and a delight to see … while I'm so pleased you got to see Gundlach's Hawk – Kathy's picture is really good.

    You had an amazing trip accompanied by some wonderful birders, made very possible in Cuba with the delightful local guiders, drivers et al … and then Miriam taking care of the home fires. Thanks for all your stories with matching photos – lovely to see. Cheers Hilary

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    1. I am pretty sure that Havana would be right up your alley, Hilary!

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  20. Hello David,
    what a great country, whether in the city or outside with its great nature and bird life, all parts of the Cuba trip were very educational, thank you very much for that
    Greetings Frank

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  21. Loved this post.. Thanks for taking us along... I feel as though I was right there with you. Great pictures. You even snuck some birds in there at the end. The 50s cars are from my era. They don't make them like that anymore. The red car look like a Chevy to me. 57,58.. We had a black one.
    The Meadow Lark look somewhat like a flicker and the woodpecker looks very similar to our Red headed woodpeckers that I have actually never seen...
    There was even an Edsel!!!
    Had to laugh about the comment regarding servicing the elevator..My thought exactly!!
    Beautiful city..I enjoyed my visit...Thanks

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    1. No, I snuck in some non bird shots at the beginning!

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  22. Cuba, so close and yet so far for Americans. I would love to go but you have brought it here to me. So used to our spread out American streets and roads where everything is set back by sidewalks in business areas and lawns in residential areas how everything is right on the edge of the street is so...foreign. which of course it is. and so clean. Portugal was the same way, also so foreign as people here just throw trash anywhere. I wonder after seeking all those vintage cars, do they have any new ones?

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    1. There are new cars, mainly Chinese and Russian. The bus we used was Chinese.

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  23. Love that woodpecker and how you saw Cuban life up close and personal. A real experience among the people.

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  24. The end of a wonderful trip--a little sad, but I'm sure you were very happy to get back to Miriam, too :-)

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  25. Great photos. A pleasure to watch and enjoy the wonderful birds. Awesome place.

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  26. Hello David :=)
    Wonderful photos throughout your post, and I don't envy you the task of choosing the photos from the many that were taken, but assure you that these have given me immense pleasure. The Loggerhead Kingbird stood out as a most beautiful bird, but as always you have shared many I have also enjoyed seeing. The subspecies of the Eastern Meadowlark, the West Indian Woodpecker, and the Palm Warbler, are all perfectly lovely birds. I am so pleased you saw the Gundlach's Hawk, and Kathy took a fine photo of this secretive and endemic species of Cuba. I tried to find a photo of the striking Calisto herophile butterfly with it's wings open, but couldn't, possibly because they never open their wings unless in flight. The day and night time images of Havana show a vibrant picture of Cuba and it's inhabitants, and I heartily enjoyed your narration David.
    Until next time I send you warm hugs and kisses.
    Sonjia.

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  27. That must have been an amazing experience this whole vacation of yours, and to see old Havana, thrilling! The people you meet, the birds and other wildlife, the sights, the history, quite an adventure, and you brought it all to life for me with your excellent narrative. I am very grateful you shared with us. Thank you David!

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  28. Brilliant trip are Cuba, all photos are beautiful. My favorite is the Loggerhead Kingbird.

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  29. Very beautiful pictures from Cuba

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  30. David It suddenly came to me that I should have written narrative not narration, but I see Denise has beaten me to it, and I also meant to say thank you, so thank you David for this most enjoyable Cuban series.

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    1. It seems to me that they are virtually interchangeable, Sonjia. I tend to use narrative but I it hadn’t struck me that you had used narration, so I obviously understood perfectly without it standing out. Your comment was lovely and that’s what counts.

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  31. Smiling Mariana appears to be a jewel. I am breathless viewing all these wonders … the wild wiring to gorgeous architecture to crumbling structures, brimming with great scenery, music and food. Don't know how you put it all together as well as you did. :)

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    1. They threw away the mould when they made Mariana.

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  32. Siento tristeza por que terminas los reportajes de tu viaje a Cuba, pero nos traerás otros también preciosos. Todas las fotografías me parecen muy lindas. Mañana me operarán de rodilla, me ponen una prótesis. Te dejo abrazos David.

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    1. Mucha surete querida amiga Teresa. Estaré pensando en ti.

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  33. Que tal David!
    i loved, i feel lucky to be able to live your journey through your words & series.
    Virgil has asked himself the same thing that i would have asked about the elevator, lol -which, by the way, you has been portrayed in a spectacular shot with rays of light that surround and give you a kind of aura-.
    Adore this beautiful adventure through Havana, that city is unique. It´s wonderful to see how people with their charm illuminated every corner of this trip.
    Thank you for sharing this experience with all of us, was exciting and poetic.

    Have a nice week ahead!

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  34. This is a complete trip!....I love to walk at night in cities....you can discover a new city totally different than the one you have walked during the day........Abrazotes, Marcela

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  35. Beautiful photos of your journey to Cuba. I like the Palm Warbler and the woodpecker.

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  36. What a fantastic tour you had! You made me love Havana at first sight with your comprehensive report including nice photos and narrative.

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  37. Above all, I would have enjoyed those musical interludes. And Hemingway is a favorite author of mine. "For Whom the Bell Tolls" is remarkable and poignant.

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    1. And "The Old Man and the Sea" is perhaps the finest novella ever written. It connects Hemingway to Cuba, of course.

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  38. I always love the birds but I especially loved the trip through Havana -- day and night (the night shots are great.) I'd love to see the Hemingway house. He's not my favorite author and not, I think, a nice man -- but I love seeing where people lived. But I think its the music that would capture me most of all. I'd love that -- whether it was piano at Hemingway or street/cafe music. That wiring looks like the back of my television set or the tree at Christmas!

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    1. I don't think I would have liked Hemingway either, Jeanie, but my love of his work borders on adoration! One doesn't have to like the person to appreciate what they do. Wagner was a rabid antisemite of the worst kind, yet his music can send into a rhapsodic trance!

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  39. A very successful walk.
    The city brings with it those from Portugal.
    Many of the scenes resemble others that can be seen in Italy, as a way of selling on the street.

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  40. Dear David, playing with your first picture is great - I love it and enjoyed playing it :-)) It's unbelievable what an effect colors have.
    And your Havana photos... you know, I immediately scrolled up again and treated myself to the pleasure again... when are you ever in Havana? Thank you very much.
    Of course, I immediately turned to the botanical garden because I love colors, flowers, shapes... and everything that flies and flutters.
    That wonderful patterning of the West Indian woodpecker and that wonderful graining of the butterfly.
    And the falcon belongs to my childhood days with the fairy tale "Finist the Bright Falcon"... what a beautiful bird.
    Thanks David.

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    1. You are such a joyful person, Viola. I really wish you lived next door!

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  41. Oh my gosh, David. What a once in a lifetime experience. The city. The birds. The people.
    Wondrous. Thanks for sharing.

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  42. Not sure if my comment went through, so trying again. You may be deluged:) What a once in a lifetime experience. The city. The birds. The people. Amazing. Thanks for sharing.

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  43. You have made me fall in love with Cuba. A wonderful trip. Wanted you to know that last month, here on the Oregon Coast a rare blue rock thrush was spotted. What a beautiful bird.

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  44. I enjoyed this account very much. The city looks fascinating, and oh, to have music at every turn! Truly a memorable adventure. Thank you for taking us all along.

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  45. lol, I have seen some of those "longlegged" people in Sweden as well. Tried to walk on stilts as a kid. Not easy to do. :)

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  46. Thank you for this beautiful tour of Cuba through your excellent photographic report. Spectacular captures of the West Indian Woodpecker.
    Everything is beautiful, nature, the city and the smiles of the people in your group.

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  47. David, as enjoyable as it has been to see all the birdlife on your trip, this post was wonderful to see more of the city view and, of course, those fabulous vintage autos which I had read about and seen elsewhere. What fun to have seen and ridden in such classics.

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  48. Dear David, it was a great pleasure to accompany you through Havana - I relived some of the things I saw there 10 years ago.
    But it's especially great that you saw the Gundlach's Hawk. That really sounds like a memorable and wonderful encounter.
    I'm glad that you and your travel companions had such a wonderful and successful time in Cuba!
    All the best, Traude

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  49. When I read your introduction I knew that I was in for a treat. So I poured myself a we post-dinner libation and settled down to look at the photos and read the blurb. I was correct. Obviously I've seen travel films of Cuba but seeing your photos and commentary was a really enjoyable experience. Thank you. .

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  50. Que buen paseo desde casa y tranquila después de cenar me he dado por Cuba con tus fotos David, cada vez que las veáis volvéis allí, serán recuerdos para siempre. Me han encantado los pájaros.Gracias .
    Un abrazo.

    Responder

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  51. Hi David,
    Fantastic holiday. Birding and meeting great people and beauty of nature all around you. Impressive! Thank you for sharing.
    Warm Greetings,
    Maria

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