Birding in Cuba - February, 2024 - Part 6

 23 February, 2024

Playa Larga - Bermejas - Cienfuegos - Laguna Guanaroca - Río Caonao - Trinidad

     I awoke at 05h:00 after a good night's sleep, showered and finished my final packing.

     Breakfast was at 06h:00 and we left at 07h:00, not before bidding a sorrowful farewell to Jose and Damita and all my friends at Hostal Melody. There is always a touch of sadness in leaving; this time especially so, since I don't know whether I will be back again.

      Whatever happens in life, I will never forget these wonderful people, of that you may be sure.

      We journeyed on to search for Fernandina's Flicker (Colaptes fernandinae) and it didn't take us long to locate this enigmatic bird, the largest woodpecker in Cuba, with patchy distribution.

     It was a great thrill for everyone.

     I can say without hesitation that to discover this bird was high on everyone's list.

     We travelled on to Bermejas, our last chance to see Grey-fronted Quail-Dove (Geotrygon caniceps). My entire experience, hitherto, with this shy, evasive species, was a five second look at a bird 200 metres away - effectively, hardly a view at all.

     This time we succeeded beyond any reasonable expectation.

     It is a spectacular bird and I am so happy that Virgil managed such a great shot.

     A Blue-headed Quail Dove (Starnoenas cyanocephala) took an unaccustomed second place, and verged on irrelevant!

     Take a moment to look at these two birds, however. To see both together was a special moment indeed.

     A Great Lizard Cuckoo (Coccyzus merlini) only added to the excitement of the morning.

     To sight an American Kestrel (Falco sparverius) was a daily event.

      It was not long before we motored onwards to Laguna Guanaroca, a large lake with extensive dense shoreline vegetation where a pleasing variety of ducks, herons and a few shorebirds were seen.

      We made a short visit to the old colonial city of Cienfuegos, took advantage of our time there for an expresso and a bathroom stop, and explored the main square.

       While we walked around and took in the sights and sounds, Tania and Jovany lingered over their coffee.

     To Beth, I owe thanks for the following photographic record.

     Kathy was not to be outdone.

     I remember that the first time I saw an American Yellow Warbler (Setophaga aestiva) in downtown Havana I thought it was really unusual to see the bird in such a location.

     Apparently downtown is no barrier!

     Just before boarding the bus to carry on to Trinidad a pair of Eurasian Collared Doves (Streptopelia decaocto) graced us with their presence.

     The City Of Trinidad is redolent with charm and tradition, a glimpse into the very beginnings of Cuban settlement.

     There was no shortage of interesting sights - of every kind.

     How many feet have walked those cobbled streets?

     Caged birds are unfortunately commonplace in Cuba, and while we may decry the practice, there is a long and deeply-embedded tradition that is resistant to change.

     We always dine at the San José when in Trinidad, a bastion of civility, impeccable service and charm.

     Soon we were seated inside, checking the menu.

     Actually, after the above picture was taken the staff moved some tables so that we were seated together.

     I ordered a vegetarian pizza which was huge and delicious. I was happy to slide a few slices over to others. 

     After lunch we checked into Hostal Lili - always a pleasure.

     Who could imagine what lies behind those doors?

     We checked into our comfortable rooms and had a couple of hours to ourselves. I took a short nap and then went up onto the roof to watch the world go by.

     Before going back to the San José for dinner we had a guided tour of the ancient city by an enthusiastic and capable young guide, but he was at a disadvantage from the get-go, since I longed for Mariana to chaperone us through town with her vivacity and extensive knowledge. 

     There were White-collared Swifts (Streptoprocne zonaris) and Cuban Martins (Progne cryptoleuca) patrolling the skies above us.

     We were joined for dinner by Rosío and her boyfriend, Jovanny's wife, and friends with two children.

     It was a fine, festive evening, much enjoyed by all.

     We walked back to Lili's under the stars, with sultry Caribbean breezes wafting over us, well contented to be together in Cuba.

     A good night's sleep awaited.

     As Scarlett said so memorably, "Tomorrow is another day."