Birding in Cuba - February, 2024 - Part 4

 "How long have we been enchanted by birds?

Forever it seems."

Graeme Gibson

21 February, 2024

Santo Tomas - Rancho Los Pintines - Los Hondones 

     One of the great highlights of a visit to Cuba in search of birds is a foray into the bowels of the legendary Zapata Swamp. It was with considerable excitement that we left Playa Larga for Santo Tomas to board our boats, to be ferried deep into this world of wonder.

     We walked down a muddy path for half a kilometre or so, with a broken-down boardwalk almost rendered useless. Funds are lacking for maintenance of this type, unfortunately.

     Our reliable boatmen awaited us.

     In no time at all we were being poled down the channels.

     As you might expect, Virgil's cameras were at the ready.

     Everyone was scanning intently, looking especially for Zapata Sparrow (Torreornis inexpectata), a rare and eagerly anticipated prize.

    

     Fortunately, we did not have to wait long before the bird cooperated. 

     We meandered into the swamp, enjoying every minute of it. Cleopatra in her royal barge never had a finer experience!

     Mangroves are a unique, interesting and vital coastal ecosystem.

     I had been having a discussion with someone, Virgil if I am not mistaken, about the rarity of Black Vulture (Coragyps atratus) in Cuba, so you will understand my delight when a couple were perched in full view - a first for me in Cuba.

     LaSagra's Flycatcher (Myiarchus sagrae) was a bird that we saw frequently; always with deep appreciation, however. 

     Most birders will tell you that warblers have unique appeal, and the endemic Yellow-headed Warbler (Teretistris fernandinae) is living proof of that simple fact.

     Zapata Wren (Ferminia cerverai) proved as difficult to find as Zapata Sparrow had been easy, and even disembarking for a while and searching from dry land we failed to locate it. 

     Finally, thank goodness, a single bird was heard singing, and briefly came into view.

     Ten minutes more and we would have been back at the "dock" - sans Zapata Wren!

     Virgil even recorded the song for us.

https://xeno-canto.org/881384

     Breakfast was taken en plein air and was very pleasant.

     We had reserved seats and no other diners to interfere with our lively conversation.

     Tania had a treat for us in store. She knew of a local fellow who had discovered two Cuban Nightjars (Antrostomus cubanensis) at their daytime roost, and he led us there.

     Such a spectacular view of this phantom of the night!

     This encounter is a great example of the ways in which ecotourism benefits local communities. Tania made sure that, on behalf of all of us, he was paid for his service, and he will no doubt be spurred on to cooperate in the future.

     It was extremely interesting to see this Turkey Vulture (Cathartes aura) displaying clear evidence of leucism, a genetic disorder inhibiting the deposition of melanin in some feather tracts.

     Some of the feathers, especially the primaries are abraded and damaged, typical of leucistic birds where the feathers are weakened in the absence of melanin. 

     Lunch was taken at my favourite place to eat lunch in all of Cuba, Los Pintines, an ecological family farm run in the manner of an Israeli kibbutz.

     Lunch is always a fine affair, comprised entirely of organic food produced right on the farm.

     After lunch we returned to Playa Larga for leisure time from 15h:00 to 16h:00.

     Then it was back to Los Hondones to Tania's "other house" to watch the feeders closely and see what came to visit.

          Beth and Virgil opted for the swing. Sorry we can't see your face Beth.

     I think that a Red-legged Thrush (Turdus plumbeus) was there most of the time, confident and very handsome.

     Ovenbirds (Seiurus aurocapilla) seemed always willing to put on a show.

     Kathy captured this Bee Hummingbird (Mellisuga helenae) in exquisite detail.      

     Yellow-throated Warbler (Setophaga dominica) was quite common and was not at all shy around human dwellings.

     It was always a signature moment to enjoy the antics of a Worm-eating Warbler (Helmitheros vermivorum).

     They seemed exceptionally fond of bathing.

     A flock of noisy Cuban Amazons (Amazona leucocephala) settled in to feed on almond trees in a neighbour's backyard and we were invited in to view them.

     A Cuban Pewee (Contopus caribaeus) seemed to say, "Don't forget me!"

     A Northern Mockingbird (Mimus polyglottos) perched on a fence.

     When viewed intently, Loggerhead Kingbird (Tyrannus caudifasciatus) is an exceptionally handsome bird. 

     As the late afternoon light began to wane we headed off quickly to the "owl post", where as many as five Bare-legged Owls (Margarobyas lawrencii) are known to roost in the same hole.

     They peer out at the world before setting out into the night and one has to be quick with the shutter release to capture them before they launch into the air.

     Many Cuban Nightjars flew around us and landed on the ground as we walked back to the bus.

     The air was still, the moon almost full.

     We returned to Playa Larga for dinner, and a familiar face was there to thrill us all before turning in for the night.

     All was well with the world!

     Thanks to Alan, Beth, Kathy, Mike, Tania and Virgil for permitting me to use their pictures.