24 November, 2023
Playa Larga - Nearby Rural Area - Playa Girón - Playa Larga - Nearby Rural Area
The excitement started early! Just before first light, while chatting before breakfast, the two American Barn Owls (Tyto furcata) returned from their nighttime foraging and we had fabulous views of these enigmatic birds. Tania was ready with her camera.
We left for a rural area less than a half hour from Playa Larga, where our quest would be to locate Cuban Parakeet (Psittacara euops) and Fernandina's Flicker (Colpates fernandinae), two highly sought after Cuban endemics.
It turned out to be easier than we might have imagined! A mere five minutes out of the vehicle we found a tree dripping with parakeets - feeding, preening, squawking, quarreling - a psittacid extravaganza if ever there was one.
We had no sooner torn ourselves away from the parakeets when a couple of Fernandina's Flickers came into view, and perched very obligingly.
Easy-peasy birding! It bears remembering that most birders throughout the world will never see these species, and even for birders visiting Cuba a sighting is far from a slam dunk.
Smugness was our default condition for the rest of the day!
The following picture will convey the flavour of the area we were visiting.
In this location there were several butterflies flittting around, but the only one I was able to photograph was a Phaon Crescent (Phyciodes phaon).
I was very pleased when Trevor pointed out a White-crowned Pigeon (Patagioenas leucocephala) to me, and Brian was able to get a decent picture.
This is not an exceptional rarity, but it is a notoriously shy species, and this view was my most satisfactory ever.
A Great Antillean Grackle (Quicalus niger) seemed quite pedestrian by comparison.
It was a rare day when we did not see a Cuban Pewee (Contopus caribaeus), but it was always with great pleasure.
A Cuban Green Woodpecker (Xiphidiopicus percussus) is a very exciting bird and no one ever became immune to its charm.
West Indian Woodpecker (Melanerpes superciliaris) is no less appealing, and its appearance sealed a three-woodpecker day.
The tawny shoulder of the Tawny-shouldered Blackbird (Agelaius humeralis) is not always visible, and the female does not have this feature in any event.
We started the morning's birding with an owl, so it's fitting that we end with one, this time a very cooperative Cuban Pygmy Owl (Glaucidium siju). It was a delight for everyone and posed for pictures from every angle.
We tore ourselves away from birding to go to Playa Girón, to visit the Museo Memorial, a mere rifle's shot away from the scene of the battle of the Bay of Pigs, an ill-conceived invasion orchestrated by the CIA, which resulted in humiliating failure and loss of life.
The Cuban force was mainly made up of individual citizens, men and women, backed up by a small contingent of trained warriors.
A monument honours the memory of those who died.
The tour of the museum was extremely interesting. The guide spoke so clearly and precisely that I could understand almost everything she said, but Mariana sprang into the breach without hesitation and acted as our interpreter.
It struck us that whenever the name of the Revolutionary Leader of Cuba was inscribed, or even mentioned, it was simply "Fidel." There was no need to add "Castro." I can't think of other leaders who have achieved such universal and instant recognition.
Across the street was a small market selling souvenirs of various kinds, and I think most of us bought a couple of items, more as a way of leaving a little money in the community rather than being taken by what was available for sale.
Upon leaving we drove for several minutes along the shore of the Bay of Pigs where the presence of another hero of The Revolution was celebrated, known around the world to this day simply as Che.
I found it quite touching in a way to be present at the very site where a botched invasion, landing at a mosquito-infested swamp, changed the course of history. Sadly, the grand ideals of the Revolution have not been realized, but one would be equally hard-pressed to make a case for democracy and capitalism today. There are those who would trade democracy and pluralism for autocracy and dictatorship in a heartbeat.
We stopped for lunch in Soplillar at a finca called Rancho Los Pintines; perhaps my favourite place to eat lunch in all of Cuba.
It is a pristine farm where agroecology, permaculture, carpentry and sustainable resource management are practiced in harmony with nature. The food is organic, delicious and plentiful, and the hosts are kind, gentle people committed to their way of life.
Mary Ann, who comes from a farming background was especially interested in this place and plied the owner with many questions, becoming more entranced by the minute as she learned of their philosophy and the practices employed.
I made notes as to the type of bee and the reason for this unique structure, but I must have misplaced them or lost them, so I am unable to offer much clarification. I will try to re-educate myself in February.
It was with a deep sense of satisfaction that we returned to our accommodation to rest for a while before going out once again to search for Grey-fronted Quail-Dove (Geotrygon caniceps), this time accompanied by Ernesto. Surely with two of Cuba's premier birding guides we could find this will-'o-the- wisp bird - well, that's what I thought anyway!
Would we have to be content with a butterfly that eluded identification?
We scoured the terrain until darkness began to fall, without even a hint of our target.
But if you think that even for a moment we were morose about this turn of events, let me assure you that we were of good spirits, enhanced by the discovery of a family of Bare-legged Owls (Margarobyas lawrencii) in a hole in a utility pole.
Incredibly, there were five owls in this hole, and we were able to watch them one by one as they peered out at the world, and left to hunt for the night.
To cap off the evening in grand style, a Cuban Nightjar (Antrostomus cubanensis) perched on a post, and stayed there!
I don't know how long we enjoyed its company, but I doubt that ten minutes would be an exaggeration, and it had not left its perch when we returned to the bus.
I mentioned earlier that we had a three-woodpecker day, well now we could claim a three-owl day too. And a nightjar to boot.
Not a bad day at all if you ask me!
Once again I need to express my deep appreciation to Andrew, Lorraine, Brian, Tania and Mary Ann for permitting me to use their pictures.
I can't get enough of your Cuba posts, David. Ain't that owl the cutest thing ever!!! Happy New Year to you and Miriam.
ReplyDeleteAdorable!
DeleteNow I HAVE turned a bright shade of green, David! I know you are aware that owls are my favourite birds, but you probably don't know that woodpeckers come second on the list - and these days it's a rare day that I see either. This, of all the days you have shown so far, would have blown my socks off.
ReplyDeleteA very happy New Year to you and Miriam - may it continue to be filled with amazing wildlife!
Richard
And if the owls and the woodpeckers were the icing on the cake, Richard, the nightjar was the cherry on top of that!
DeleteWhat a wonderful, wonderful day - from start to finish. I am a tad jealous but also very, very happy for you and your companions.
ReplyDeleteAnd one more return visit coming up next month.
DeleteAnother great report on your Cuban birding trip. I have to say the owls are my favorites, Wonderful birds, sightings and photos. Take care, have a wonderful week!
ReplyDelete...David, thanks for taking me along on this journey. I will look forward to seeing more in the future.
ReplyDeleteWoodpecker and owl are among our favorite birds..... they visit our backyard sometimes....
ReplyDeleteHappy new year to you and yours.
Cuba must seem like paradise to you, David. The owls you show are incredibly cute, and so are the woodpeckers. I miss pictures of orchids, because you showed several of them the last time you were there. Did you see anyone this time? :)
ReplyDeleteHugs and kisses, Marit
I did, Marit, but I didn’t take any pictures of them, and I am relying mainly on my companions for photographs, and they haven’t provided orchid shots. I will be back there again next month and will be sure to take pictures then. Just for you! Hugs and kisses - David
DeleteI'm looking forward to see the pictures, David.
DeleteHugs and kisses, Marit
I showed bob the photos today and he said Cuba is the only country he would like to visit, not for birds of course but for the old automobiles and that sweet little home with the bougainvillea. the owls are amazing, and I do love them a lot. I saw your comment about New Years on another blog and agree. it is just another day to us. I have seen teh new year in 3 times in my life of 79 years. we are early birds and can't stay awake until midnight. Hope this year brings you many new bird sightings and another trip or two to cuba
ReplyDeleteIn a later post there will be several pictures of these old cars for which Cuba is so renowned.
DeleteWhat a great report of your Cuban birding trip David.
ReplyDeleteEvery time I see species of birds that are not found in our country, I am happy about that.
Photos 3, 5, 12, 15, 16, 32 and 34 are my favorite.
I wish you and all your loved ones a happy but above all a healthy 2024.
Greetings Irma
You do take epic trips! I am hard-pressed to go into town these days... Thanks for sharing your adventures.
ReplyDeleteHappy New Year David. I hope I can put a smile on your face this first day of 2024. On the last Saturday’s Critters, Eileen asked for an ID on a bird. Before I left my own comment, I scrolled through all the comments to see if you had, and indeed you had identified the bird as a Broad-winged Hawk. I told Eileen, in my comment, I was not surprised to see your comment as you are the bird scientist! Have a great 2024, my friend! Love your posts on your trip to Cuba!
ReplyDeleteThe owls in this post were the stars of the show for me - such wonderful captures, but that cute little Cuban Nightjar perched on the post must have been a great thrilled to see.
ReplyDeleteHari OM
ReplyDeleteJust outstanding... 'sall as can be said about such a trip! YAM xx
Wondrous birds! Happy new year.
ReplyDeleteNo se porque será, pero el búho, despierta mucha simpatía, cada vez que lo veo.
ReplyDeleteFeliz año 2024.
Really enjoy these posts. The owls were amazing! Especially that little one. And the Nightjar--so cute! I can see why you love to go back there. :)
ReplyDeleteQuerido David que maravilloso poder viajar con vosotros a través de tus palabras y de las espectaculares fotografías. Son todas aves hermosas y me encantaría verlas en su hábitat .La casita es como de cuento y las personas se ven entrañables. Un gran viaje. Un enorme abrazo para ti y para Miriam.
ReplyDeleteWhat a day that must have been! Such a variety of birds, what riches. Happy New Year, David!
ReplyDeleteHappy new Year to you, Miriam and family.
ReplyDeleteLove those owls, they are such lovely creatures.
All the photos are lovely and it's good to see smiling and I presume laughing amid the humans..
hello David
ReplyDeletea good guide like Mariana who knows exactly where the birds can be found
It pays off on your vacation here, such a great selection, perfect.
Greetings Frank
A three owl day. Who could ask for more! What a great trip, I'm loving the photos.
ReplyDeleteHi David.
ReplyDeleteBeautiful David, what beautiful birds there.
Beautiful that barn owl with prey.
Beautiful, those birds and those Woodpeckers.
I wish you all the best for 2024.
Greetings from Patricia.
Hi David,
ReplyDeleteNo doubt about it, this has been a perfect way to enjoy the nature of Cuba with its abundant wildlife. With a touch of history, culture and friendly people this has been a very succesful trip.
I wish you and Miriam a healthy and pleasant 2024. Make the best of it!
Greetings, Kees
Wow! That frist photo is a masterpiece. This trip holds a life time of goodness and memories. Thank you so much for sharing it with us. Have a lovely day today.
ReplyDeleteThe owls are spectacular! Those in the pole could be easily missed. Fantastic captures…all.
ReplyDeleteWow, and again stunning birds such as the Cuban Pygmy Owl.....and the American Barn Owl But the are all birds are beautiful! Super encounters!
ReplyDeleteGreetings, Maria
Cuba never fails to deliver wonderful birds, Maria.
DeleteYou all had very enjoyable and productive days.
ReplyDeleteDavid!
ReplyDeleteThank you very much for taking me on this exotic, exceptionally beautiful journey. I was amazed by the cottage with blooming flowers. She is wonderful.
Thank you for allowing me to see extraordinary birds.
I send you hugs and greetings.
Wow! You got some amazing bird photos. Those parakeet shots, masterful.
ReplyDeleteHello David, :=)
ReplyDeleteYou all had fabulous sightings of the three Woodpeckers, all of which have beautiful markings and colour. The Fernandine's Flicker, the Cuban Green Woodpecker, and the West Indian Woodpecker are amongst my favourites. I write their names so as to remember them if you see and share pictures of them next visit, if you are as lucky as you were this time. The three owls, the Cuban Pygmy, American Barn Owl, and Bare-legged Owls were super sightings, and also the Nightjar, but I also enjoyed the endearing second photo of the two Cuban Parakeets. Thank you for this most enjoyable Cuban birding experience. I have a lot of catching up to do David so next time I'll be reading about your Cuban post number 4.
Hugs and xxxx
Sonjia
What a wonderful day you had! The pygmy owls and the cuddling parakeats were my faves, so beautiful. Hugs, Valerie
ReplyDeleteThose cuddling parakeets could be an inspiration for you, Valerie. I’ll be waiting to see what you come up with!
DeleteOh wow, I would have been over the moon if I had seen those owls and a Barn Owl with its dinner as well. Love the woodpeckers and how lucky to get to see a Nightjar as well. I have never seen a Mockingbird but somehow it does not look like how I expected. Strange how one can imagine something, or someone, in your mind only to find you have it all wrong!!
ReplyDeleteI gather that you are returning in February while we will be on Safari in Namibia so I will have to try and remember to catch up.
Bonne année. Je te souhaite une merveilleuse année 2024. Bisous mon ami, Diane
Namibia has lots of owls, Diane, including Barn Owl, so maybe you’ll get lucky there. Fingers crossed for you. Gros bisous ma chère amie. David
DeleteI just love the Pygmy Owls..such cuties...and the Owl with the mouse in its mouth..Cuba seems like a fantastic place for birders..The Woodpeckers look very similar to ours..Adorable Parakeets..I had a blue one as a child..it chewed all the wallpaper around the windows in my room..Needless to say, my parents were thrilled....HNY
ReplyDeleteI visited a good friend of mine the other day and he has a Cockatiel he has now had for either 24 or 25 years. (The bird’s memory is probably better than his!). He doesn’t have any wallpaper for it to chew and as far as I know it is very well behaved. Like me,
DeleteYou probably didn't hear how loudly I sighed with excitement. There are beautiful birds there and you show beautiful photos of them. A barn owl with a mouse is the height of my dreams.
ReplyDeleteMaybe one day you’ll meet me in Cuba, Ludmila, and I’ll show them to you. Wouldn’t that be fun? Or come to Canada instead and I’ll find lots of birds for you, and you can have dinner at my house, and Miriam will show you her quilts. Come soon!
DeleteThat barn owl shot is amazing. It was great to catch the photo with dinner in their mouth. And I would think a tree dripping with parakeets would be interesting to see. It's always exciting to see so many interesting birds, especially if you're like me and aren't familiar with most of them,. I didn't know Cuba had so many species. I hope your 2024 has started off nicely. hugs-Erika
ReplyDeleteHello David, Lovely post with two species that I have had living with me. More than 20 years ago I had a friend that rescued birds and I looked after them until they were fit to be released. It brought back memories. Happy New Year.
ReplyDeleteMike.
I have never seen an owl in Hawaii, certainly not one peeking out of a hole in a telephone pole. Haha.
ReplyDeleteVery beautiful places and areas full of history, animals and nature.
ReplyDeleteHere we have the owls, I have never seen one of them but in the night sometimes I hear their "sing".
Happy new year.
What a treat to see these rare birds up close and personal! And the history of events in Cuba also. I treasure my time there and learned so much about Fidel and what the Americans had wreaked on the place.
ReplyDeleteWell done on the photos. Amazing.
XO
WWW
I love that you opened with the Barn Owl. And thanks for showing the museum. It looks fascinating -- I like seeing both the nature and the "real life" of Cuba.
ReplyDeleteAnother great read and lovely photographs.
ReplyDeleteAlways a joy to see owls and I like the Cuban Pygmy Owl :)
All the best Jan
Todo el reportaje es maravilloso querido amigo David. El chotacabras es muy parecido a los que hay por aquí. Gracias y abrazos.
ReplyDeleteGosh – brilliant photos of 'your' barn owls … ad then similarly of the flickers and parakeets … beautiful. All fabulous photos, with such delightful names … loved the Pygmy Owl … they way it's staring down at you all.
ReplyDeleteThe museum looks to give you a historical reminder on life; Mary Ann must have been interesting to hear her talk to the 'farmers' … and I do hope you can find out about those little bee houses.
As you say … 'not a bad day at all...' - looks to be an amazing trip. Happy New Year and cheers Hilary (PS I'll be back on the 13th … )
You had a wonderful day, David, with so many beautiful bird sightings. I got quite excited about the Fernandina's Flicker - I love our Northern Flickers, so of course this bird draw my special interest. What a beauty. And those owls - you were really lucky to see so many in just one day. I love the photo of the Bare-legged Owl peeping out of the utility pole - they really utilized it!
ReplyDelete