Saturday, December 16, 2023

Birding in Cuba - November, 2023 - Part 2

 21 November, 2023
Viñales - Autopista Habana-Pinar - Soroa Orquideario - Niña Bonita Dam - Playa Larga

     The start of another fine day in Cuba.


     I had slept fitfully, but breakfast and a couple of coffees set me right in an instant. We were on the road by 06h:30, primed for some grand adventures.
     Our first stop was at the shoulder of a busy four-lane highway, with an extensive wetland off to the side. In typical Cuban fashion, or dim-witted birder fashion (take your pick), we waited for a break in the traffic and scurried across the road.
      One of the very first delights to greet us was a couple of Northern Jacanas (Jacana spinosa) gambolling, running, flapping and feeding as only jacanas can. It is such an appealing bird.


     They were on the far side of the marsh, but the doughty Lorraine, toting a camera and monopod half her weight, captured a wonderful image, reflection and all.
     Brian didn't do too badly either!



     King Rail (Rallus elegans) is an enigmatic species, difficult to see, and a bit of a Holy Grail for many birders. This is the place to see them! Often one must be content with the most fleeting glimpse; here two or three at a time promenade and pose for you. I am grateful to Brian for the following image.


     Several Little Blue Herons (Egretta caerulea) joined the breakfast party.


     The bird I most wished to find here was Yellow-breasted Crake (Laterallus flaviventer), a cryptic, tiny species (12.5 - 14 cm), rare in the extreme, virtually unknown and able to disappear into the vegetation right before your eyes.
     I had failed on previous attempts, but we were at a location where it is known to occur. 
     After an hour or so we finally struck paydirt, and it was Karl who first espied the bird scurrying along in the marsh. In fact we are pretty sure there were two.
     Once again the intrepid Lorraine came through with a picture. A remarkable accomplishment in my opinion.


     When we crossed the highway to rejoin the bus we were greeted by an Eastern Meadowlark (Sturnella magna) in full voice. 


     While this species is widespread and quite common in eastern North America, the Cuban subspecies hippocrepis is non-migratory, and genetic analysis indicates that it may warrant elevation to full species status. "Stay tuned," as Rudy Giuliani might say!


     
Back on the bus Trevor had attached himself to the curtain!


     It was time to move on to the orchid garden, an extensive repository of the botanical riches of Cuba, and those of other regions.




     From a birding perspective, our target here was Giant Kingbird (Tyrannus cubensis), an endemic species not easily found - and we dipped on it! One to file away in our minds to seek elsewhere.
     There is plenty to occupy the curious naturalist, however, with botanical riches aplenty. 
     Mariana proved herself to be a proud member of the international community of tree huggers!


     The orchid garden is in a beautiful location, with spectacular views.


     I vow to pay more attention next time to the names of the plants, but all I can safely say now that this is an orchid.


     Mary Ann captured a lovely pictures of the aply named Ladies Fingernails (Neoregelia spectabilis), native to Brazil.


     Hammer Leaf Frangipani (Plumeria pudica), native to Panama and northern South America is beautiful.


     Sensitive Plant (Mimosa pudica) is native to the Caribbean but in some areas has reached pest proportions.


     I have been unable to identify this beauty at all.


     There was no shortage of refreshments available.




     As always, Andrew was ebullient and happy with his selection.



     We enjoyed a terrific lunch at the oldest coffee plantation in Cuba, now a tourist site.


     At a short distance, Tania knows of a spot where a pair of the evasive Stygian Owl (Asio stygius) is known to roost, and we lost no time in locating them.


     Time to move on to the Niña Bonita Dam where much excitement awaited us, including fabulous views of a couple of Snail Kites (Rostrhamus sociabilis), seeming to conduct a seminar on their feeding technique.



     Their diet consists almost exclusively of snails in the genus Pomacea. The birds feed by flying slowly above the surface of the water and when a snail is sighted it is deftly plucked from the water in the bird's feet and transferred to the bill in flight. It is then carried to a favourite perch to extract the snail from the shell using their specialized beak.


     We still had quite a way to go to make it to Playa Larga before nightfall and we pressed on, stopping only to break the journey and to take care of nature's needs, where one of the delightful species we saw was Cuban Grassquit (Phonipara canora).


     Its close cousin, Yellow-faced Grassquit (Tiaris olivaceus) was not shy, and revealed itself on several occasions.


     Upon arrival at Playa Larga I was excited to see Jose and Damita again, two of the most convivial hosts you might ever wish to spend time with.


     Damita presented me the gift of a bottle of fine French Bordeaux (where she obtained it I will never know) and we settled in for a scrumptious dinner of lobster, chicken, pizza, yucca, rice, avocado, salads and dessert.
     It was good to be back. It was good to be home!

TRIVIA

     I am presently reading (re-reading actually) the classic The Natural History of Selborne by Gilbert White.


     I recently found this old edition at a thrift shop and was glad to have my own copy. It struck me as a great counterpoint to my recent visit to Cuba (twice this year, in fact); the life of an English country clergyman reporting on nature almost exclusively from his own parish, yet contributing in great measure to the knowledge of the day.
     Not for him the convenience of modern aircraft; not even a field guide, no good optics, no camera to record anything. He completed his work mostly on foot, occasionally on horseback.
     Yet his insights were keen, laser sharp, verifiable and often new to science.
     In many passages the accounts have a touch of whimsy about them, and I am especially drawn to this jewel, "My musical friend, at whose house I am now visiting, has tried all the owls that are near neighbours with a pitch pipe, set at concert-pitch, and finds they all hoot in B-flat. He will examine the nightingales next spring."
     The pleasure of this work is enhanced by the sensitive introduction by Richard Mabey, one of England's most able naturalists, and a master of lyrical prose, supported by a vast knowledge of both biology and history.


     It is hyperbolic to make the claim that this should be essential reading, but I am not reticent to do so. If you have not read it, you owe it to yourself to rectify that omission.
     And while speaking of Richard Mabey, be sure to get a copy of Whistling in the Dark: A Pursuit of the Nightingale. It is written with exquisite delicacy and I vow that you will never look at nature writing quite the same way again.
David M. Gascoigne,
David M. Gascoigne,

I'm a life long birder. My interests are birds, nature, reading, books, outdoors, travel, food and wine.

63 comments:

  1. Thank you and the photographers so very much. I have read (several times) The Natural History of Selbourne and will now have to try and track down Whistling in the Dark.

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    1. Why am I not surprised, Sue, that you have several times read “The Natural History of Selbourne”? And who could only read it once?

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    2. That should, of course, say, “Selborne.”

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  2. ...the Meadowlark looks like an operatic singer!

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  3. Beautiful birds and flowers, David. For many years ago I had this Mimosa pudica. It's a funny plant.
    Hugs and kisses, Marit

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  4. A splendid account, as always, David. I'm regretting missing out on Costa Rica as a destination.

    Both those Grassquits are rather beautiful.

    I've just ordered 'The Natural History of Selborne'. Lindsay doesn't know it yet, but she's buying it for me for Christmas!

    Best wishes to you and Miriam - - - Richard

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    1. Cuba would be right up your alley, Richard, both from the prospect of just seeing the birds, and the photographic opportunities. And it’s not overwhelming.

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    2. I think my brain is beyond hope, David - confusing Cuba with Costa Rica. How did I do that?

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  5. What a stunning array of birds! This sounds like the trip of a lifetime for a birder.
    I have read Mr. Selborne's book. I agree, it is fascinating. My only hangup was that they often killed creatures to examine them. But it was different times, though, and probably accepted practice back then.

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    1. Not to be pedantic, but it’s Mr. White, not Mr. Selborne. I agree that it is always sad to kill creatures, but the whole science of animal anatomy necessitated that it happen. Then, and now, of course, we routinely slaughter animals for human consumption, with the animals kept in dreadful conditions before their demise.

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  6. Buenas noches, que tal!
    uh! what a fascinating post full of adventures and discoveries! the passion and enthusiasm you convey when describing each encounter with birds and nature in general are contagious but it is clear that you enjoyed every moment in Cuba, with those kind and friendly people; and the photos... really impressed me, they are great!

    Thank you for sharing this wonderful adventure, dear friend David! Have a wonderful day!

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    1. You would fall in love with Cuba, Carolina, with its people and its music - to say nothing of the wildlife.

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  7. Hari OM
    How wonderful to have a pool of photos to draw from and share with the world this delightful trip. I confess I found myself lingering with the Grassquits... and wishing they had a bonnier name! YAM xx

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  8. It looks warm, green and lovely. The kite photo with the snail in its beak is a fantastic shot. And congrats on finding a copy of the Selborne book. Finding a book you love so you can actually have a copy is one of the biggest pleasures of life. Or so I think. Have a great rest of your weekend.

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  9. So many exotic birds and fruits...the garden is lovely!

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  10. I am thoroughly enjoying your posts on Cuba. Yours and your companions' photos are excellent.

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  11. So many good memories - and so many good birds! I have many similar pictures (which I not really a surprise I think!). You may recall that my blogs are named after a phrase in the Natural History of Selbourne - and Mr. Mabey is a great writer - I would suggest "Nature Cure' to everybody. Hope all is well. Cheers - Stewart M - Ubud, Indonesia.

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    1. I hadn’t made the connection between your blog and “The Natural History of Selborne” (not Selbourne”) but I will be on alert for the phrase. I will be on the lookout for “Nature Cure” too. Hope you are enjoying Indonesia.

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    2. Ah, that errant 'u' slipping into my already awful spelling. I took the name for my blog from the section at the start of the book - which I think is called The Advertisement. Indonesia has been great - although I did far more napping than birding! SM

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  12. i would very much like to step into the first photo of the cabine and beautiful sky. that is the place i would love to see. I have never seen a Jacana, and in fact most of the birds are new to me. even the happy meadowlark I have not seen with my own eyes. though it is familiar. Cuba is a lovely place to visit and all the people so friendly.

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  13. Hello David,
    These are beautiful images from your trip to Cuba.
    The eastern meadowlark is beautiful and sings the highest song.
    An orchid garden is very nice to walk around and take photos.
    Also very beautiful is the Stygian Owl and the Snail Kites, species that we do not see here, I have never heard of the snail kites.
    What a wonderfully sharp photo of the Yellow-headed Grassquit, my compliments.
    Greetings Irma

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  14. Wonderful report on your birding adventure in Cuba. Beautiful bird and lovely flowers. Great collection of photos. Take care, have a great day and happy new week!

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  15. Hi David,
    No doubt about it, Cuba is an interesting country for nature lovers . Of course many of us know that Cuba offers a splendid opportunity to go back in time an see for instance cars dating from the 50's and 60's. In others words, a paradise for history lovers aswell.
    I enjoyed reading your report and looking at the pictures.
    Greetings, Kees

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  16. Hi David, must have been a wonderful experience, travelling across Cuba.
    An island allways has special species to offer. What a colorfull bird at pocture 8, with his full belly in yellow. The picture of the flying bird at nr 25 is fantastic. Ans offcourse I love the orchid, growing in a tree (14). It's a lifetime ago I saw these in nature.
    Enjoy your wonderful memories.

    Best regards, Corrie

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  17. What a great post--full of joy! Some spectacular photos--my favourites are the ones of the birds singing away :-) And thank you for the book recommendations!

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    1. If you read these titles, Shari, be sure to let me know how you find them.

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  18. Hi David - what another stunning day you had ... beautiful birds to gush over, while Lorraine with her brilliant photos, and Brian with his additional special ones ... lucky you - what a great trip.

    The Jacanas mentally nobbled me - I thought they looked like the African Lily Pad - called Jacana - though a different species from the American ones. I loved the ladies fingers - such a great name.

    While Selborne has been a place I've been wanting to visit for years ... but needed to take time out for a couple of days down there - which hasn't happened. I wrote about Gilbert White in 2011 - under my first A-Z ... such an interesting man, along with John Ray, George Montagu and Darwin ... 4 great men who found keys to nature's secrets.

    Cheers and happy wind down of 2023 and then into 2024 ... Hilary

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    1. The colloquial name for jacanas is “Lily Trotter” so your connection to the African lily pad is spot on, Hilary. I am very familiar with John Ray, and Darwin of course, but George Montagu is new to me. Time for a little research, I think!

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    2. Just did a quick look at Wikipedia, Hilary. How could I have missed this luminary. Are there books about him that you know of?

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  19. It's good that you have returned to Cuba, it is a wonderful place that I could have gone to a few years ago, which is impossible today due to the economic conditions in these parts. The variety of swamp birds is beautiful, especially the rails. I also saw him observe the snail kite, one well known to me but which I haven't seen in two years due to the drought. Beautiful orchid garden! A big hug

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  20. Buen recibimiento has tenido. Esa isla es un lugar prodigioso, para tomar fotografías.
    Feliz domingo de descanso.

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  21. Cuba is a fantastic place. So much to see. Greetings.

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  22. A wonderful variety of birds and flowers. It must feel great when you return to a place and see your good friends.

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  23. Quedo encantada con tu precioso reportaje. Me quedo con las ganas de viajar a Cuba. Estamos preparando un viaje a la isla de Madeira, que nos queda más cerquita, también a Lanzarote o Fuerteventura ( Islas Canarias ). Todo me gustó de tu recorrido, especialmente la alondra y la orquídea. Abrazos.

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  24. Beautiful pictures David, what a wonderful tour of these unique birds. Oddly, I do remember that orchid area and I remember taking many photos. I had limited education on orchids at the time but became intrigued.
    XO
    WWW

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  25. Wonderful photographs! I'm glad you found the one bird you really wanted to see.
    The grassquits are such pretty birds!

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  26. In Cuba for the second time this year. You do love that country, I say! : )

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  27. Gold star to Lorraine for her amazing photos. I am particularly taken with the one showing the Snail Kite carrying the snail.
    My husband grew up close to Gilbert White's home in Selborne, and we own two copies of his book. A contemporary edition and a leather bound one that was published in1853. It is beautifully illustrated with 70 black and white engravings showing subjects from natural history, views of Selborne, its vicinity and antiquities, all of which were sketched from nature especially for this Victorian edition.

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    1. I can barely imagine the pleasure you must derive from the 1853 edition. I would be thrilled to own such a treasure.

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  28. You sure have a grand time travelling! I am happier looking at your joyful photos from my chair.

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  29. You have made me sorry that I never traveled to Cuba..Thanks for taking me along with you..It seems so very warm and inviting and a wonderful place for a camera buff..Have a nice week David..

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  30. Wonderful pictures. Thank you for sharing them.

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  31. hello David
    a tight daily program filled with all sorts of highlights, the snail kite, I've never heard or seen it but it's very exciting to know how it gets its name, thanks for the report.
    Greetings Frank

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  32. I am very delighted to see a printed book referenced in your post. The photo of the Stygian Owl is really well done. Happy clicking!

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  33. That snail kite with the snail in its beak is simply fantastic - Lorraine is an exceptional photogrpaher! I'm glad that you got to see the Yellow-breasted Crake! I'm enjoying all the photos from your trip and I would love to visit Cuba one day - maybe when we will finally be able to travel outside of school holidays. The picture of the abundance of fruit reminds me of the Big Island where we got fresh fruit every morning from our landlady who owned an organic farm. It just tastes so much fresher if it didn't have to spend some time on a boat or an airplane.

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    1. When the juice is squeezed from the fruit right before you drink it, it is amazing! You would love Cuba, Carola, and there are quite a few German visitors. Mariana, our princess above, works in the German embassy in Havana and is fluent in German.

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  34. Querido David nos dejas un relato precioso y unas fotos espectaculares. Las aves y las plantas un placer para la vista. Muchas gracias. Abrazos y besos para ti y para Miriam.

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  35. Great trip to Cuba. Wonderful flowers, birds and oh the tropical fruits, amazing! Have a wonderful Christmas and a New Year with abundant travels :)

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  36. Hi David.

    Nice part of your journey.

    Beautiful birds and many with beautiful colors.
    Lots to see.

    Greetings from Patricia.

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  37. I have that plumeria! though I know it as bridal bouquet plumeria. another lovely day in Cuba.

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  38. Catching the snail in the water, extraordinary agility.

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  39. Un gran relato que has acompañado con preciosas fotos.
    También me encanta brazar los árboles como a Mariana. El árbol tiene una bella orquidea.
    Buena semana David.
    Un abrazo

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  40. I have nevear been there but it seems to be great birding place. :)

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  41. Wow, stunning Birds in Cuba!!! Fantastic images!
    And the Orchidgarden is also great ....I'm looking forward to part 3 and maybe a part 4 ?
    Merry Christmas and a Happy New Year to you and your family!
    Greetings, Maria

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    1. Part 3 has already been published, Maria. There will be more to follow.

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  42. That sky in your opening photo is magnificent! And what gorgeous blooms!

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  43. Thank you very much, dear David, my heart grows wider and even happier... it's so nice to see a part of the world through your eyes. Thanks. And now I'm jumping straight to part 3 :-))) Hug

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Land Acknowledgement

We acknowledge that the land on which we are situated are the lands traditionally used by the Haudenosaunee, Anishinaabe, and Neutral People. We also acknowledge the enduring presence and deep traditional knowledge, laws, and philosophies of the Indigenous Peoples with whom we share this land today. We are all treaty people with a responsibility to honour all our relations.

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