Birding in Cuba - Part 9 (Final) - February, 2023

19 February, 2023

       Our last day in Cuba, and probably fitting that we should spend it in the capital, Havana, a grand old city steeped in history.

     I was up early and clambered to the rooftop to watch Havana awake, looking out over streets and buildings that had witnessed the march of time, had outlasted corrupt dictators and grieved that a revolution of the people had not been able to deliver on its promise.

     One did not have to conjure up a sense of history, it weighed down on one's shoulders.

     I could not help but think of Ernest Hemingway and his visceral love of the island, the centre of his creative genius, where he wrote The Old Man and The Sea, that most perfect of all novellas.

     But the day awaited and we set off to meet Jiovani and our trusty bus. There were birds to see, sights to enjoy, with not a moment to be wasted. It seems that historic buildings were on every corner, in grand squares and tree lined streets. Perhaps one day I will learn the names of them all, but for now we will have to be content only with the image.

     We went to a section of rocky coastline, whence Havana could be viewed majestically rimming the bay in the distance.

     There were birds to see!

     A Great Egret (Ardea alba) paraded in front of us, oblivious to our cameras and binoculars, bent only on finding breakfast. The lives of a few fish would be cut short today.

     There were several flocks of shorebirds, the principal species being Ruddy Turnstone (Arenaria interpres) and Sanderling (Calidris alba).

     If there is an activity more pleasant than wandering around rocky shores, with tidepools aplenty, probing and inspecting, seeing wonder after wonder, I am not sure what it is. 

     I was free to indulge my curiosity and Miriam was there with her camera to record it all for me.

     In reality Havana was cozying right up to us, but we could ignore it when looking out to sea.

     The Ruddy Turnstones captured our attention in the most delightful way.

     Frequently they were joined by Sanderlings.

     A Magnificent Frigatebird (Fregata magnificens), the pirate of the air, cruised overhead seeking a victim from whom it could steal a hard-earned catch.

     A Grey Plover (Pluvialis squatarola) was content to forage alone, thereby gaining sole access to whatever delectable arthropods it could find.

     There are mysteries to be solved in the fossils below. I may impose upon my friend Alan Morgan again for an explanation!

     The same situation applies here.

     Royal Terns (Thalasseus maximus) were taking a break from diving for fish.

     A Snowy Egret (Egretta thula) was resting too.

     By contrast a juvenile Little Blue Heron (Egretta thula) strode along the water's edge, with food in mind.

     One of the signature birds in this part of the world is the ever-pleasing Brown Pelican (Pelecanus occidentalis), here showing its mastery of the air, that realm denied to mere humans.

      Here a couple were content to loaf.

     A Sanderling is such a splendid little bird.

     Avian fishers were not the only ones with a good catch on the agenda.

     I thought that the following plant was exceptionally attractive, and a little detective work reveal it to be Sea Purslane (Sesuvium portulacastrum).

     It grows in coastal and mangrove areas throughout the world. If I have come across it before I don't remember it, but I was very happy to make its acquaintance in Cuba.

     I suspect that Royal Terns were not overly impressed with it!

     A few Least Sandpipers (Calidris minutilla) joined the throng.

     A Ruddy Turnstone was joined by a Spotted Sandpiper (Actitis macularius).

     Is there anyone, anywhere on Earth, who does not delight in looking out to sea to watch the waves rolling in, crashing against the shore?

     If only we could bring ourselves to take a little better care of the oceans.

     It seems that different species of birds get along together much better than humans most of the time, sharing their space and feeding side by side.

     We were delighted when our eyes were drawn to this beautiful flower, the appropriately named Oceanblue Morning Glory (Ipomoea indica). 

     "Goodbye," it seemed to say as we left the beach, "Be sure to come back." And I will!

     We went into Havana to have breakfast and begin our tour of the city, celebrating its 503rd anniversary, with Mariana as our interpreter of all that we would see.

     We ate breakfast at a little café where the service was inexplicably very slow, but what did it matter? We were in Havana, looking out at the sights and sounds of this fabled city, people-watching and just enjoying life. 

     It was very pleasant that there are many mature  trees in the city; always places to seek shade if need be.

     Cuba's national heroes are celebrated throughout the city.

     Mariana's knowledge of the history of her country and the significance of its monuments was impressive. I paid close attention and appreciated every moment of her discourse but remembered little. Obviously I need to do it again - and again.

     There was an exhibition of street art in many guises and I offer these pictures without further commentary.

     Here is the Cuban way of making a delivery.

     It seems to me that if you travel in a taxi at home it is never as shiny and clean and as well cared for as this vintage car.

     Pleasingly, there were patches of nature in the crowded streets.

     This tangle of wires and electrical meters bears silent testimonial to the various tenants occupying this old apartment building.

     Enterprising vendors hawked their goods along busy streets and alleyways.

     Colourful entertainers enlivened the urban landscape with a variety of performances.

     It did not take long for them to attract a following.

      Welcome to the Old Town Square.

       There were attractive buildings.....

     ..... and our darling, Mariana, to explain it all.

     There is an amazing statue of a naked woman, astride a rooster, carrying a giant fork.

     No one seems to know exactly what it symbolizes, although given the overt masculinity of a rooster, there seems to be a hint of eroticism about it. One may be sure this would never see the light of day in Florida! Tote your gun, go massacre a few people, but never look at a naked human!

     Homage is paid to some of the world's great thinkers.

     One might choose a point and rotate 360 degrees, and charm and beauty would greet one at every angle.

     There is even a museum dedicated to everyone's favourite (and not so secret) vice.

     Here is more of the street art I mentioned earlier.

     Someone seems to have dedicated her life to the care of stray cats. 

     More fabulous street art - this was my personal favourite.

     Alan Morgan will be happy to see a society dedicated to geology.

     Gaze upon the sheer splendour of this tree if you will, reaching skywards from the sidewalks of Havana.

     And there is more to please the eye.

     The Callé Tacón is an historic wooden street, now open as a pedestrian area. 

     Originally the street was made of river stone which constantly came loose creating potholes, and hazards for horse and people alike. Buried under several layers of pavement it was excavated and restored in 1980.

     Mariana was happy to explain its origins to us and we were enchanted by her proficiency as a guide.

     Collourfully outfitted women greeted us with friendly waves.

     The streets were inviting.

     Even doors were objects of admiration.

     Everyone was out to make a living.

     This large mural displayed scenes of earlier Cuban life, featuring many of its legendary citizens.

     You get only one guess as to who explained it all to us.

     Did she perhaps claim this picture as her own?

     More Cuban splendour.

     And yet another tree.

     We took lunch at a sidewalk café, shaded from the sun under huge umbrellas, sipping wine and enjoying a feast. Miriam and I split an order of ribs, which was beyond delicious.

     I am quite sure that if Cuba endures for a thousand years Che will be part of truth and legend, a man larger in death than he doubtless was in life, but a true hero to the Cuban people.

     By mid afternoon we returned to our room to relax until dinner, and I went out onto the balcony to simply watch and enjoy the vibrancy of the city below me.

     I watched two fellow with garlic and onions wandering up and down selling their wares, and just below me off to the right, someone bought a whole string of garlic from them.

     A little different from the way I buy garlic!

     I also climbed the spiral staircase to the roof, where Miriam joined me a little later and we watched the world go by.

     Before going for dinner we enjoyed a ride through many neighbourhoods of Havana in old convertibles, way beyond the routes taken by casual tourists.

     What fun it was even to sit in the cars, let alone enjoy the windswept ride through old streets and historic precincts.

     At one point we switched vehicles so we all had a chance to ride in a different vintage car, each with its own accomplished driver and guide.

     The recent history of Cuba was on display with government buildings and monuments, and accounts of the actions of the revolutionaries as they consolidated power in the capital.

     As always, Che received top billing.

     How would you like to cruise around town in this beauty?

     We often sailed alongside each other, waving, blowing kisses, abundantly happy.

     Thank you, Cuba. Muchas gracias La Habana.

     We went for a delicious dinner and reminisced on our journey through this enchanted isle. Never did a more compatible group travel together, never were hopes and dreams so well accomplished. I will owe a debt of gratitude forever to Jim and Barb, Selwyn and Victoria, Lisa and Tina - and of course Miriam - for being such wonderful companions.

     The soft street lights lit our way back to the hotel, where we retired for the night, mentally preparing for our journey back to Canada.

     For some it was a renewal of a love affair with Cuba and its people, for others it was the beginning of a lifelong romance. One cannot know what the future holds for this tiny nation, for its resolute people, their dreams, their ambitions, their hopes for their children, but we wish them well, and we will offer whatever help we can. Our hearts are with them always.