Costa Rica 26 January 2019

El Coco - Hotel Carara - Tarcóles River

     After a quick bite to eat and - most essential of all - a coffee, we left for the three hour plus drive to Carara. The journey was pleasant and enabled us to see the Costa Rican countryside and many small towns.
     We knew that check-in time at the hotel was 14h:00 but decided to go and leave our luggage there so that it would not be visible in the SUV to people bent on mischief. The young lady at the reception desk was very accommodating and promised to keep an eye on our belongings herself until the rooms were ready for occupancy.
     A walk along the beach seemed like a good idea.

       Magnificent Frigatebirds (Fregata magnificens) sailed effortlessly above us and were a marvel to watch.

   
     I never tired of watching these birds. When I reach the stage when I can only sit in a rocking chair and watch, I swear I will join the frigatebirds again!

     Brown Pelicans (Pelecanus occidentalis) have an appeal all their own, but do not have the symmetry and grace of the frigatebirds in the sky. But pelicans can swim too, whereas to land on the water means death for a frigatebird. Theirs is a two-dimensional world only.

     The most interesting observation was of a Peregrine Falcon (Falco peregrinus) consuming a Laughing Gull (Leucocephalus atricilla) it had taken down.

     Four Black Vultures (Coragyps atratus) were watching the peregrine enjoy its meal, waiting no doubt for the moment it would leave.

     Miriam made the very astute observation that although the vultures moved in quite close to the falcon, they never made eye contact with it while it was eating. 

     Is it possible that this is a submissive gesture? Would eye contact incite an aggressive response from the Peregrine?
     A Royal Tern (Thalasseus maximus) showed not the slightest interest in the whole affair.

     Neotropic Cormorants (Phalacrocorax basilianus) were often seen, for the most part doing not much of anything.

     There was a stream coming out of a nearby forested area and a mare and a foal trotted down the beach right to the confluence of the stream and the ocean, knowing exactly which side to drink fresh water.

     It was hot as Hades on the beach and we returned to the hotel where we ate the lunch we had brought with us, and some even took a dip in the pool.
     We inquired of our delightful young friend at the desk whether she had any information regarding boat trips on the Tarcóles River focused on birds, rather than the standard "crocodile tours." Our luck was in! She had one brochure and even helped us to call the tour operator and before long we were booked to be picked up at 14h:00 to go birding on the river, in a covered boat no less, so we would have a little relief from the burning tropical sun. 
     Right on time a fine vehicle arrived at the hotel, with a driver and a guide with a scope. His first name is Franklin for sure, and it seems to me his last name is Sanchez if I am remembering correctly. In any event he was a terrific young man, a first rate guide and an agreeable companion. 
     As we set off for the boat launch area, very close to the hotel in fact, Franklin was promising a "present" on arrival there. What this might be we had no idea, but it was not hard to tell that he knew it would be special.
     The vehicle stopped, we all tumbled out, and as quickly as you could say, "There it is" two Black-and-White Owls (Strix nigrolineata) were in the scope. "Franklin," I thought, "Your tip is getting bigger!"

     Miriam and I have seen this species before but for everyone else it was a lifer, and an impressive one at that. Even for Miriam and me, it was our first sighting of this species in daylight hours.
     Now if you, dear reader, are not impressed with this beauty, better check your pulse now!
     In no time at all we were on the boat, binoculars at the ready, cameras primed for action, enjoying a slight breeze, at least in part created by the movement of the vessel. It was very pleasant indeed and wherever one looked birds abounded.
     Franklin was on the lookout, spotting everything that moved, and some that didn't, calling them out for his appreciative clients.

        In Canada we have but one kingfisher, and as kingfishers go it is not especially colourful, so sightings of tropical kingfishers are eagerly anticipated. This female Amazon Kingfisher (Chloroceryle amazona) was the first to elevate the heart rate a little.

    Birds, of course, are not the only attractions and basilisk lizards are always interesting to see. This Striped Basilisk (Basilicus vittatus) is a very handsome specimen.

  
     Many of you no doubt already know that basilisks are also known as Jesus Christ lizards on account of their ability to seemingly walk on water. I confess that walking on water is not one of my paltry talents, but Miriam has been known to tell me that I am skating on thin ice!
     Bare-throated Tiger Heron (Tigrisoma mexicanum) was very common in suitable habitat and there were scores of them along the banks of the river, ever alert for a quick meal.

      A couple of Green Herons (Butorides virescens) stalked potential prey in shallow water.

     Surely one of the most exotic birds along a neotropical waterway, one of the most colourful, one of the most enigmatic, is Roseate Spoonbill (Platalea ajaja) and they were arrayed along the bank for us to see, like an honour guard.

     The American White Ibis (Eudocemus albus) on the right in the first picture seems like a wallflower at a dance by comparison.
     Top marks were reserved for this stunning male in peak nuptial splendour, ready for romance at the drop of a feather.

     I could swoon just looking at him!
     A Tricoloured Heron (Egretta tricolor) was also in breeding plumage. Love was indeed in the air on the Río Tarcóles!

     From time to time the boat driver sped up a little to get from one place to another, and we enjoyed the scenery and the breeze.

     Wilson's Plover (Charadrius wilsonia) could be seen scampering up and down sand spits in several locations, but the combination of camouflage and distance was not ideal for photography. Miriam managed one picture, however.

     In the same location was a Ruddy Turnstone (Arenaria interpres).

     In total contrast to the frenzied foraging of the shorebirds, a White-tipped Dove (Leptotila verreauxi) moved deliberately, unhurried, with an air of grace and dignity.

     A Roadside Hawk (Rupornis magnirostris) was no doubt alert to every feeding opportunity.

     The river seemed peaceful, yet what dramas of life and death both above and below the surface were constantly played out in the timeless cycle of life on this planet?

     A Little Blue Heron (Egretta caerulea) had caught a small fish for a snack.

     It would need a lot more to satisfy its appetite.
     What might a Great Black Hawk (Buteogallus urubitinga) desire to see on its menu today?

     There were oohs and aahs aplenty as we saw a couple of American Pygmy Kingfishers (Chloroceryle aenea), always females as I recall.

    Yellow-crowned Night Herons (Nyctanassa violacea) seemed to dot every tree, and some promenaded along the shore, handsome as a dandy on a boardwalk, looking for love.

     We had but one sighting of a Yellow-headed Caracara (Milvago chimachima), obligingly perched in the open for all to see.

    Zebu (Bos indicus) were introduced to Central America from Asia many decades ago, since they tolerate the climate and other conditions better than North American cattle breeds, and are known to be less susceptible to predation by Vampire Bats (Phyllostomidae). They came down to the river frequently to drink and forage on sweet new shoots.

     Franc had always wanted to see a thick-knee, being fascinated by its "googly-eyed" look and he was especially happy when we came across a couple of Double-striped Thick-knees (Burhinus bistriatus).

     In the same location Least Sandpiper (Calidris minutilla) was very common.

     I think that it is safe to say that in any wetland we visited in Costa Rica, from small ponds to riverine systems, we encountered Black-necked Stilts (Himantopus mexicanus).

     This was the only location, however, where we saw a Willet (Tringa semipalmata).

       Evening was fast approaching as we headed back towards the dock and Western Cattle Egrets (Bubulcus ibis) were coming in to roost for the night, slowly transforming the trees to white.

   
     At Christmas our own tree is principally festooned with white, all decorations handmade by Miriam, and I couldn't help but make the comparison between the two. More birds were flying in by the minute as we drifted past their roost.
     Our quest was not for crocodiles, but one couldn't help but notice them as the moved silently through the water, looking for all the world like your worst nightmare. We had kidded Francine that they especially favoured French Canadian flesh, and when this behemoth whacked its tail against the side of the boat she just about jumped out of her skin!

     Another female Amazon Kingfisher perched close by was perhaps adequate compensation for being startled.

     The sun was really starting to sink, but we still had adequate light for good looks at a Grey-necked Wood Rail (Aramides cajaneus) that came out of the vegetation.

     Minutes later we saw a couple of Southern Lapwings (Vanellus chilensis) to round out the trip.

     By the time we arrived back at the dock sunset was at its peak and a glorious sky bid us farewell.

     It had been a wonderfully productive journey along the river and very enjoyable too. We all felt very satisfied with the experience.
     The company that operates these tours is Mangrove Birding Journeys, mangrove@costaricabirdingjourneys.org. Their Operations Manager is Leonardo Centeno, +506 7173-7302. I recommend them highly.

All species 26 January: Muscovy Duck, Blue-winged Teal, Wood Stork, American White Ibis, Roseate Spoonbill, Bare-throated Tiger Heron, Yellow-crowned Night Heron, Green Heron, Western Cattle Egret, Great Blue Heron, Great Egret, Tricoloured Heron, Little Blue Heron, Snowy Egret, Brown Pelican, Magnificent Frigatebird, Brown Booby, Neotropic Cormorant, Turkey Vulture, Black Vulture, Western Osprey, White-tailed Kite, Great Black Hawk, Roadside Hawk, Grey Hawk, Zone-tailed Hawk, Grey-necked Wood Rail, Purple Gallinule, Double-striped Thick-knee, Black-necked Stilt, Southern Lapwing, Wilson's Plover, Killdeer, Collared Plover, Northern Jacana, Whimbrel, Ruddy Turnstone, Red Knot, Sanderling, Least Sandpiper, Spotted Sandpiper, Lesser Yellowlegs, Willet, Laughing Gull, Royal Tern, Rock Dove, Inca Dove, Ruddy Ground Dove, White-tipped Dove, White-winged Dove, Groove-billed Ani. Squirrel Cuckoo, Black-and-white Owl, American Pygmy Kingfisher, Green Kingfisher, Ringed Kingfisher, Hoffmann's Woodpecker, Northern Crested Caracara, Yellow-headed Caracara, Peregrine Falcon, Red-fronted Parrotlet, White-fronted Amazon, Orange-fronted Parakeet, Scarlet Macaw, Yellow-bellied Elaenia, Great Kiskadee, Tropical Kingbird, Western Kingbird, Mangrove Vireo, Mangrove Swallow, Rufous-backed Wren, Red-winged Blackbird, Nicaraguan Grackle, Great-tailed Grackle, Northern Waterthrush, Prothonotary Warbler, Common Yellowthroat, American Yellow Warbler.