Sunday, January 18, 2026

A Visit to Colombia - Part 4

05 December, 2025
Hacienda El Bosque, Manizales

     After our usual hearty breakfast we set off for an exciting day's birding at Hacienda El Bosque, a location renowned for its antpittas and other characteristic birds of the central Andes.

Photo: Victoria Ho


     Following standard practice the local guide, armed with a copious supply of worms, began to call in an Equatorial Antpitta (Grallaria saturata).
     It was not long before he succeeded.


     This species appears to have a checkered taxonomic history and is not recognized by HBW.


     Furthermore, it is not included in Harold F. Greeney's authoritative work, Antpittas and Gnateaters (2018). I am unable to find any reference to it at all, so I cannot speculate on the reasons for the apparent controversy. The species is accepted without question by eBird, iNaturalist and doubtless by other internet platforms and taxonomic regimes. Interestingly, however, my entry on iNaturalist has not been confirmed and has not been elevated to research grade.
     Be all that as it may, it was for everyone in our group an exciting bird to see.
     Here is the Antpitta Pied Piper tossing worms to lure in the birds.


     He was a pleasing, friendly young man and I think we all enjoyed his company.
     There were always flowers to charm us, even though we were frequently unfamiliar with them; in this case I am pretty sure the plant is found in the tribe Ixieae, but I'm unable to identify it specifically.

Photo: Victoria Ho

     The formidable bill on a Sword-billed Hummingbird (Ensifera ensifera) has to be seen to be believed!

Photo: Pam Sadler

     This species specializes in flowers with long pendent corollas; it hovers below them in order to access the nectar deep inside.

Photo: Victoria Ho

     It is a species much sought after by visiting birders and I know that everyone in our group was delighted to see it. 
     Black Flowerpiercer (Diglossa humeralis) was but one of three species of flowerpiercer we saw.

Photo: Pam Sadler

     You will see the hooked tip of the upper mandible used by the bird to pierce the base of the flower, thereby robbing it of nectar without providing any reciprocal benefit like pollination.
     It gave us great delight to spot a Yellow-bellied Chat-Tyrant (Silvicultrix diadema).

Photo: Pam Sadler

     It is usually found in dense undergrowth close to the ground and is thereby hard to see. Unlike most flycatchers it sometimes takes prey, primarily small beetles, from twigs, or on the ground.
     There were cows to keep us company.


     Horses, too.


     White-browed Spinetail (Hellmayrea gularis) feeds on arthropods found in moss, dense foliage, dead leaves, bark and bamboo.


Photo: Victoria Ho

     It is an acrobatic little bird, often gleaning for insects upside down. You will see above how it comes by its name.

Photo: Pam Sadler

     Grass Wren (Cistothorus platensis) has a staggering nineteen subspecies in eight subspecies groups. The taxonomy of this species, formerly a Sedge Wren (C. stellaris), is not yet resolved.


     No such controversy exists over Mountain Wren (Troglodytes solstitalis).

Photo: Victoria Ho

     These little birds have figured out that humans bring juicy worms and they showed no reluctance to take food offered from a beneficent hand.


 
     Lisa was enjoying the whole spectacle and chatting to the resident bird whisperer who sported the largest neckband ever seen!


     Hummingbirds are all spectacular. You have met Shining Sunbeam (Aglaectis cupripennis) before but who can get enough?

Photo: Pam Sadler
 
     How about one more look at the "shining" part of the bird's name?

Photo: Pam Sadler

     Shimmering Sunbeam might be a better appelation!
     No one can be faulted for lack of signage at this location!



     We had no luck with the Crescent-faced Antpitta (Grallaricula lineifrons). Perhaps it prefers its worms à la mode.
     We were not particularly thrilled with the rain, but without a doubt raindrops have a distinct beauty about them.


     Victoria did a wonderful job photographing flowers; would that I did as well naming them.
     In the subfamily Crocoideae.....


     A female Tyrian Metaltail (Metallura iracunda) perched nicely for us.

Photo: Pam Sadler

     We saw Sickle-winged Guan (Chamaepetes goudotii) quite often.

Photo: Pam Sadler

     It is an opportunistic bird and is drawn to bird feeding stations where its large size enables it to feed unmolested. In the picture above you will see a Great Thrush (Turdus fuscater) at the bottom right. 
     Sickle-winged Guan is often joined by Andean Guan (Penelope montagnii) which feeds in similar fashion.


     Either bird is capable of reducing a banana to the skin in just a couple of gulps.
     Callianthe is a genus of flowering plants distributed throughout the Neotropics.

Photo: Victoria Ho

     We did not see many mammals during our stay in Colombia, but we were always taken with Red-tailed Squirrel (Sciurus granatensis) and its antics.


     It is in the same genus as our familiar Eastern Grey Squirrel (Sciurus carolinensis) and seems well endowed with the same mischievous ways.


     Rufous-collared Sparrow (Zonotrichia capensis), despite my feigned air of detachment, remains one of my favourite birds.


     Look closely and you will see three of them on the ground in the picture above.
     Mountain Velvetbreast (Lafresnaya lafresnayi) is a sensational little hummingbird.

Photo: Pam Sadler

     Pam captured it on the way to the feeders.....


     ..... and Victoria caught it when it had settled in to feed.



     I managed this picture of a Hooded Mountain Tanager (Buthraupis montana).


     Here it is a little closer feeding on worms set out for it.


     
Birds in the family Cotingidae are in many instances difficult to see, so we were thrilled when a male and a female Barred Fruiteater (Pipreola arcuata) paid us a visit.

Barred Fruiteater (♂) Photo: Victoria Ho

Barred Fruiteater (♀) Photo: Victoria Ho

     Fortunately, this species is relatively willing to reveal itself, and it brought back memories for me of the first time I saw it in Ecuador many years ago.
     Sparkling Violetear (Colibri coruscans) is suitably named, I am sure you will agree.

Photo: Pam Sadler

     It is aggressive and territorial and tends to dominate other species.
     I am going out on a limb here, possibly a shaky one, and calling this plant Racineae tetrantha.

Photo: Victoria Ho 
 
     It is listed as being native to Bolivia, Costa Rica, Venezuela and Ecuador, so with Colombia being positioned between Venezuela and Ecuador it doesn't seem unreasonable to me that the plant should be found there.
     Blue-capped Tanager (Sporathraupis cyanocephala) is a scintillating bird in a scintillating family.


     The diversity of beautiful tanagers is both bewildering and satisfying, especially for those of us who live in the north. Here in Ontario we can reasonably expect to see Scarlet Tanager (Piranga olivacea), sometimes Summer Tanager (Piranga rubra) in the southernmost part of the province, and rarely Western Tanager (Piranga ludoviciana). In Colombia, to see several species together is not unusual. What a feast for northern eyes!
     White-bellied Woodstar (Chaetocercus mulsant) is a tiny hummingbird, amazingly insect-like in flight.

White-bellied Woodstar (♀) Photo: Victoria Ho

     It is an annual rite of passage for southern Ontario birders to greet the arrival of warblers to the province, so it is very enjoyable to see a species that does not appear here. Golden-fronted Whitestart (Myioborus chrysops) is a very attractive bird.

Photo: Victoria Ho

     White-sided Flowerpiercer (Diglossa albilatera) was seen quite often.

Photo: Pam Sadler

     Northern Slaty Brushfinch (Atlapetes schistaceus) was never far from the food laid out and frequently replenished by dedicated human assistants!

Photo: Victoria Ho

     Many species enjoy grapes and they are often used to attract birds. Here a Great Thrush takes full advantage of them.


      This casts a whole new light on elbows on the table!
     Actually, if you pay close attention to it, it is a very handsome bird.

Photo: Victoria Ho

     A Grey-browed Brushfinch (Arremon assimilis) darted back and forth to snag morsels of food.

Photo: Pam Sadler

     It was all together a great day of birding, but decidedly cool and lunch was a kind of hot pot where you added your own ingredients to a hot broth, and it was perfect for the weather. Dessert was cheesecake and there was hot Colombian coffee.
     We left mid-afternoon, well satisfied with our experience at Hacienda El Bosque. I would go back there in a heartbeat!
David M. Gascoigne,
David M. Gascoigne,

I'm a life long birder. My interests are birds, nature, reading, books, outdoors, travel, food and wine.

63 comments:

  1. Beautiful birds and photos, David!
    Yes, the Shining Sunbeam have been my favorite bird already, and the hummingbirds too. They are so lovely.
    Hugs and kisses, Marit

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  2. I love seeing these photos of birds I will probably never get to see myself in person. I especially enjoy the hummingbirds, but honestly I was delighted by the photos of all of them.

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    1. Instead of going to Chicago you need to go to Central or South America. For you, Mexico would be really easy.

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  3. That is very interesting about the bird in the first photo. This seems like a wonderful trip. I do like seeing the cows and horses too. Thank you David, for this outstanding post of your trip. Have a nice day today.

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  4. I feel so grateful and so spoiled to be able to relive our adventures with just a click of the mouse, thanks to your delightfully written recollections and the great skill of the photographers. Pamela's photo of the Shining Sunbeam honestly took my breath away!
    I must admit I was a tad smitten with our gentle and very knowledgable guide, Cristian Valencia, who clearly loved the birds and the nature surrounding us as much as we did. I told him that if I ever return to Colombia. I want him to be my guide!

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    1. I don't recognize the name, but I am assuming this is Lisa. If ever I were to go back to Colombia, I would go to a different part of the country. It's always a debate whether to return to familiar, well-loved places or visit somewhere new.

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  5. Hi David,

    all together, a flood of information, plus the fantastic, colorful pictures. My favorites are the hummingbirds—beautiful birds.

    Greetings, Frank

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  6. Amazing bird photos, David, but I really LOVE the shots of hummingbird...absolutely wonderful.

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  7. A stunning set of photos and wow, some beautiful birds that I have never heard of before and will never get to see. Well done. As a matter of interest I looked up the Antpitta and found lots of photos but very little info at https://www.oiseaux.net/oiseaux/grallaire.d.equateur.html
    Bisous mon ami, Diane

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    1. Thanks for the link, Diane. As you say, heavy on pictures but short on information.

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  8. Oh, es gibt noch einen viertel Teil. Wie schön. so kann ich noch weitere Vögel anschauen und versuchen, mir die Namen zu merken. Ganz großartig finde ich die kleinen Kolibris. Ihr schillerndes Gefieder ist wunderschön. Obwohl, alle Vögel sind sehenswert und wunderschön.
    Viele Grüße Anette

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  9. On Saturday and Sunday we were at local museums, and there was an abundance of information and colors, just like in your post about these birds.
    Tomorrow I will write about one of the museums in my blog. If you are interested, you can read it.
    I don’t feel as happy when I see a beautiful and rare bird as you do. This is a fact and must be accepted, because our interests and knowledge are different.
    But I can imagine how you feel!
    It’s like when I find a beautiful poem after a lot of searching. The beautiful words of a poem are to me what the beautiful feathers of birds are to you. I want to know more about the poem and the poet, and I want to share the knowledge with others.
    From this I know how you must feel.
    Éva

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  10. An excellent and very enjoyable read, David. The range of species you recorded, from antpittas to tanagers and hummingbirds, is impressive, and your notes add real value for anyone interested in Neotropical birding. I would love to visit South America one day. Thank you very much for sharing your observations!

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    1. I am sure that one day you will do it, Guillermo. The bird life is out of this world!

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  11. ...the living is easy for the squirrel!

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  12. Wonderful pictures! Looking at them, I can only express my amazement at the way Nature crafts so many different shapes of birds' beaks to take advantage of different flowers.

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  13. That Sword-billed Hummingbird is aptly named!

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  14. Wonderful photos by all, and such beautiful creatures along with the leaves and flowers.
    Feeding the birds, has a different meaning in the wild.

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  15. Hi David, beautiful photos of your birding day. With nice serie of birds.

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  16. What a fantastic series of photos, David.
    The different types of wren are truly amazing; I didn't know there were so many different kinds; we only have one here.
    I also think the hummingbirds are beautiful.
    I wish you a wonderful week.
    Greeetings Irma

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  17. Amazing birds and I admire your knowledge of birds! It was also nice to see familiar plants in their own habitat! Stunning photos again!

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  18. Amazing birds ! The fauna and flora are beautiful ! We must preserve those beauties !
    Have a cozy week David !
    Bisous
    Anna

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  19. Hari OM
    While you can argue on behalf of the birds, on at least two of the flowers you have shown, I can stand firm: the first, long and whippy, is Montbretia (Scientific name: Crocosmia
    Family: Iridaceae) and one of my favourites for any garden. The second bell flower is what is sometimes called Chinese Lantern (Scientific name: Abutilon Pictum
    Family: Malvaceae). Despite the common name, it is native to South America, and the flowers are edible. The third plant is a new one to me, so I will let any other knowledgeable commentator have that one! YAM xx

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  20. Dear David,
    I asked the AI ChatGPT about the “controversy” surrounding the Equatorial Antpitta, and I thought you might find the answer interesting 🌿🪶.
    Apparently, the controversy is because Grallaria saturata has only been re-established as a distinct species in the last few years, based on genetic and vocal evidence. That is why it is still missing from more conservative works such as HBW or Greeney (2018), while it is already accepted by IOC and Clements/eBird.
    The fact that iNaturalist records are often not elevated to Research Grade seems to reflect the community’s cautious approach to recently split, difficult-to-identify taxa, rather than any rejection of the species itself.
    So much for the Equatorial Antpitta — which, fortunately, knows nothing of these debates and simply lives and flies, allows itself to be lured in for wonderful photographs, and looks utterly delightful while doing so 🥰.
    All the other sightings you describe sound highly rewarding as well, and I can easily imagine why you would want to return to Hacienda El Bosque immediately. I was especially charmed by the Mountain Wren, which actually feeds on worms straight from the hand! I’m beginning to think I should get into the habit of carrying bird food on my own forest walks. So far, I’ve only photographed birds that presented themselves voluntarily, without any coaxing — and I’m sure I’ve missed quite a bit because of that.
    I don't know if you've seen that my blog currently has an Ontario chapter where I also wrote about our encounter – I'm curious to hear what you think of it 🐦😊
    With all best wishes, and warm greetings to Miriam ❄️☃️, Traude
    https://rostrose.blogspot.com/2026/01/reisebericht-2025-vogelbegegnungen.html

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    1. I will go back and check your blog. I did read it and was impressed by the detail, as was Miriam. I am sure I left a comment.

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  21. I took my time today, studied each bird carefully, and thought how thankful I am for photography that shows us details we would never see with the naked eye. each one shows the colors, the feathers, the eyes, the tiny claws... My eyes when out and about in the past, saw the pillows on the first photo, the cows and horses, the flowers every where, but rarely the birds. I can sit and appreciate the why you and your friends travelt to other continents to see these beautiful birds. the colors and the name make my favorite today the Chat Tyrant.... ha ha ha, I may be a chat tyrant. great post and thanks to your friends for sharing with us.. now I want to feed a bird from my hand. I have let flamingos eat from my hand and a parrot sit on my arm.

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  22. Hi David.

    Wah, this is truly fantastic.
    Beautiful species of flowers and birds.
    That sword-billed hummingbird is truly beautiful.
    Funny, those little birds that come to eat from your hand.
    And that little bird, Tyrian Metatail, is super beautiful.
    How wonderful that you were able to see all this.

    Greetings from Patricia.

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  23. The variety of birds is amazing. You had me with the first hummingbird though. What a beauty! Incredible creature!

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  24. Well done David. Yes, you completely blew me away again. Incredible photos. Thanks to all the photographers.

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    1. The more I come here the more I am in love with the birds... Sword-billed Hummingbird is so amazing

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  25. A Great Day of Birding would seem to be an understatement ... You never fail to show me birds I have never heard of or seen ... Thank you for that :) As for Bangkok, you are right ... polluted and congested, but there are some beautiful areas and a wonderful Temple to visit there. I spend almost all of my time in the Chaing Mai and Chaing Dau area in the north near the mountains. The air is clear there and the beauty is amazing. I have done some birding, but as I am with my son and Dil who are not birders, I have to do it on my own. I keep saying that I am going to hire a guide and go, but not comfortable tramping through the jungles with a guide by myself ... hmmm. Next time I go, I will look for a birding group, though that is hard when you don't speak the language.
    Good to hear from you again and know that all is well with you.

    Andrea @ From the Sol

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  26. The photos are absolutely beautiful to see. Sword-billed Hummingbird is amazing with the very long bill, I can see how the bird got its name. Thanks for sharing another wonderful bird watching day, David.

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  27. A wonderful post with stunning photographs.
    I think on balance it's the hummingbirds that got my favourite vote.

    All the best Jan

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    1. Hummingbirds are undeniably appealing, Jan, but I think they are, in addition, extra special for people outside of the Americas who have no chance of seeing them.

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  28. These amazing photos show wildlife that I have only seen in photos. I am not sure I will ever get to Costa Rica now, but I have your photos to enjoy and that's the next best thing for me. Thank you David!

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  29. A beautiful series and I always enjoy seeing the hummingbirds.

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  30. What a celebration of life this post is, my friend! Impossible hummingbirds, the sword billed Hummingbird is simply otherworldly, such winged sophistication!

    And the squirrel, how cute! 🐿️ I love the pictures; the joy is palpable.
    Gros bisous, dear friend o mine!

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  31. David, I just realized i left a message with the wrong account. I'm sorry. It happens sometimes; i'm a bit absentminded :/
    Have a wonderful week ahead!

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  32. Whitebellied Woodstar is my favorite. It's so tiny. I wouild love to see it in flight.

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  33. These are wonderful photos David. Looks like a great time :-D

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  34. All those birds are so striking. I'm glad you were able to get photos from your fellow birders. Was it your camera that went kaput?

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    1. I did have problems with my camera and then I just set it to automatic and left it there. I was able to take some pictures. Any photos you see above with an attribution are mine.

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  35. What a beautiful experience. I enjoyed every photo you shared.

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  36. The orange flowers are what we call crocosmia. I made the mistake of planting a few a friend gave me. They're kind of invasive and don't bloom very much and I pull out hand fulls. Love all the new birds, never seen before by me. That sword billed hummer, it's as long as it's body!

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  37. Hummingbird in flight is sensational!

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  38. Que estupenda serie de aves David. Además conocemos algunas que de otra forma no veríamos. Me han gustado los colibrís, buen pico tienen. Me ha parecido ver algo de Líquenes en alguna rama de los árboles. Gracias.
    Buena semana para vosotros.
    Un abrazo.

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  39. I have been on three trips to Costa Rica, mainly for birding, and have seen only a small part of the incredibly varied places where so many birds are found. Your trip looks fabulous — and totally different from my visits.

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    1. Hello, Mae: indeed Costa Rica is fabulous. I have made four visits there, all for birding. Colombia eclipses it by an order of magnitude. I have been to Colombia three times, once on business admittedly, but twice for dedicated birding and I have barely scratched the surface.

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  40. I often imagine myself on such a trip, carefully observing everything around me. These interesting accounts, enriched by photos, stimulate my imagination. It's true that my neighborhood is rather desolate, especially during the winter hibernation, but in spring and summer I love such walks and exploring places others ignore or pass by with indifference. I must admit that I miss the green surroundings right now, the smell of grass, the lush green trees, but oh well, you have to endure winter and look forward to warmer days...
    All the best, Dawid.

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  41. These birds are so very colorful! And what a bunch of them. I love that they have been more or less "trained" to realize that you are offering them worms and come to you for their treats. Interesting about the mammals but perhaps they are in a different area or stick to the underground when people come by. And all of you are looking UP! This is really a spectacular trip, David. I'm impressed.

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  42. Tak pomyslałam, że może namalowałabym kolibry ze zdjęć Pam. Jeśli oczywiście mogę. Podziwiam Waszą ornitologiczną ekspedycję i gratuluje udanych spotkań z przyrodą.

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  43. I do enjoy seeing the breathtaking photos of your trips and reading about the wonderful camaraderie your groups experience.

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  44. Cuantas aves preciosas vistes, yo habría estado muy feliz de verlas también. Yo estuve viviendo en Venezuela varios años, entonces era una jovencita que solo miraba orquídeas y otras flores. Abrazos y muchas gracias por las fotografías.

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  45. Another fantastic installment of your Colombia series, David.

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  46. The variety of hummingbirds was enjoyable to read about and see, David. The sunbeam and sworded ones were amazing and thanks for sharing your fellow birder’s images.

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  47. I saw your latest post and wondered what happened to post #4. Hmmm. Somehow I missed this, but it's enjoyable to see and read about your travels so I came back looking for it. I found the "brown" shining sunbeam hummingbird interesting. I guess I never expected a humming bird to be colored like that. The variety of all the birds is really amazing. Off to read post 5.

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  48. So many stunning hummingbird! These little birds are so fascinating. I was completely taken with the Sword-billed Hummingbird - such a fitting name! Since I'm not a birder, I'm probably one of the very few readers of your blog who had to look up the acronym HBW. Now I know. Big hugs to you - Carola

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We acknowledge that the land on which we are situated are the lands traditionally used by the Haudenosaunee, Anishinaabe, and Neutral People. We also acknowledge the enduring presence and deep traditional knowledge, laws, and philosophies of the Indigenous Peoples with whom we share this land today. We are all treaty people with a responsibility to honour all our relations.

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