A Visit to Colombia - Part 3

04 December, 2025

Estelar Recinto del Pensamiento - Río Blanco Reserve

     As usual, we wandered around the grounds at the hotel for a while before breakfast, and as was the case each morning there were birding gems.

     A couple of Acorn Woodpeckers (Melanerpes formicivorus) was a very pleasing sight.

Photo: Victoria Ho

     Some of the others saw Cattle Tyrant (Machetornis tixosa) more than once, but it eluded me and I am grateful to Victoria for this picture.

     It reminds me that I saw my first Cattle Tyrant ever, in Colombia, in 2010.    

     Located only around 3 kilometres from Manizales, Río Blanco is a huge reserve (around 5,000 hectares) and a perfect spot for some serious birding. It is known for the relative ease with which one might see a couple of Antpittas, birds notoriously hard to spot in the deep recesses of the rainforest understory.

     As far as I can tell Angel Paz in Ecuador pioneered the technique of providing worms to antpittas, successfully calling them in to feed. This is where I first encountered the practice and was amazed when Maria, a Giant Antpitta (Grallaria gigantea) responded to her name and came to claim her breakfast.

     The practice has spread to other locations in Ecuador, and obviously to Colombia, too. Here it worked to perfection and it was not long before we thrilled to a Chestnut-crowned Antpitta (Grallaria ruficapilla).

Photo: Jim Bowman

     The bird returned several times to gobble down a few more worms, so we had time to really appreciate it.

     Here is the little clearing where the antpitta came to feed.

     Not surprisingly, other species clued into the meal delivery schedule, and a Grey-browed Brushfinch (Arremon assimilis) was not reluctant to claim a seat at the table.

Photo: Victoria Ho

     The city of Manizales was spread out before us, revealing that like everywhere else in the world urbanization is encroaching on natural areas and displacing wildlife.

     It was cool high in the mountains, with rain pounding down from time to time. Liliana looks like she is offering invocations for good weather.

     At the high elevations of our journey to the reserve, the road was inadequate for vehicular traffic.  Supplies for road repairs and other purposes were brought in by mules.

     These poor animals seem destined for a miserable life of hard physical work each day. I doubt that they receive much of what would pass for affection and they probably never get a chance to enjoy the tranquility of an alpine meadow.

     There were many great birds to see, including this species currently known by the jaw-breaking moniker, Pink-billed Cnemoscopus (Cnemoscopus rubirostris).

Photo: Victoria Ho

     It was formerly known as Grey-hooded Bush Tanager; sometimes maybe the taxonomists should leave well enough alone!

     Many different species of hummingbird were present and we took great delight in every one of them.

     Pam's picture of a couple of Buff-tailed Coronets (Boissonneaua favescens) squabbling, as is their wont, with a Lesser Violetear (Colibri coruscans) keeping a close eye on them, is quite  sensational.

Photo: Pam Sadler

     We observed from a number of different spots throughout the reserve, sometimes from the roadside.

     Birds were everywhere!

     Here are mules again.

     A Northern Slaty Brushfinch (Atlapetes schistaceus) took full advantage of the numerous bird feeders around the property.

Photo: Victoria Ho

     We were sheltering from a downpour and Pam seized the opportunity for a group photo. I had not packed rain gear of any kind so I was grateful to Ernesto for the loan of a waterproof jacket.

     Slaty-backed Nightingale Thrush (Catharus fuscata) is a shy, retiring bird of wet, mossy montane forests, and we were lucky to see it. Even better, Victoria managed to get a decent picture.

      Río Blanco was the only location where we saw Black Flowerpiercer (Diglossa numeralis).

     Flowerpiercers, as the name implies, obtain sweet nectar from a flower by piercing the base of the corolla, without rendering pollination services to the plant.

     As the following pictures show, they are equally willing to sip sugar water from a hummingbird feeder.

Masked Flowerpiercer (D.cyanea) Photo: Victoria Ho

White-sided Flowerpiercer (D. albilatera) Photo: Victoria Ho

     Shining Sunbeam (Aglaeactis cupripennis) was the most common hummingbird, and they put on quite a show for us.

     To really appreciate their name, you need to see the back of the bird with its stunning iridescence.

Photo: Victoria Ho

      It is territorial and pugnacious and will defend its territory and access to food against all comers, including other Shining Sunbeams.

Photo: Victoria Ho

     It does not shy away from a tussle with larger birds; here it is engaged with a White-sided Flowerpiercer.

Photo: Victoria Ho

     Blue-winged Mountain-Tanager (Anisognathus somptuosus) is a colourful resident of montane forests, generally travelling in small groups.

    It is both insectivorous and frugivorous.

Photo: Victoria Ho

     Here it is seen feeding on berries but it was not reluctant to take advantage of the fruit made available at the feeding stations.

     Our only sighting of Pearled Treerunner (Margarornis squamiger) occurred at Río Blanco.

Photo: Victoria Ho

      Superficially, both in appearance and behaviour, it resembles a treecreeper, but none are quite so handsome.

Photo: Victoria Ho

     We were very happy when a White-throated Quail-Dove (Zentrygon frenata) came out of the undergrowth and paraded around in the rain for a few minutes.

Photo: Victoria Ho

     Quail-Doves are difficult to see, preferring to remain hidden in humid forest and thick understory vegetation. Thankfully, this individual had doubtless become habituated to the feeders.

     A toucan is always the star of an avian show, and the appearance of a Grey-breasted Mountain Toucan (Andigena hypoglauca) set our hearts aflutter.

Photo: Victoria Ho

     What an outrageously handsome and interesting bird!

     This species mainly eats fruits and it showed itself very adept at swallowing grapes set out as bait.

Photo: Victoria Ho

     It is presumed that when feeding young it requires animal food, but analysis of stomach contents has only revealed fruit.

     I am not sure whether this Eared Dove (Zenaida auriculata) was running to get out of the rain or doing a high-stepping dance in it!

Photo: Victoria Ho

     A second species of Antpitta was on the wish list for the day, and we were not disappointed. 

Brown-banded Antpitta (Grallaria milleri)

     This butterfly is in the genus Panyapedaliodes, but beyond that I have no information to offer.

     Many tropical butterflies are seriously understudied. It causes me great angst when I think of the amount of money it takes to produce just one cruise missile (whose only purpose is destruction), yet scientists and researchers are continually having to struggle to secure even meagre funding for their work. 

Genus: Corades Photo: Pam Sadler

Genus: Fountainea Photo: Pam Sadler

Narrow-banded Dartwhite (Archonias flisa)

     Another Masked Flowerpiercer posed very nicely.

     A couple of Buff-tailed Coronets (Boissoneaua flavescens) were sizing each other up, like prize fighters in a boxing ring, waiting for the action to begin. Looks like the trash talk has already started!

Photo: Victoria Ho

     It didn't take long!

Photo: Victoria Ho

     Hummingbirds were a large part of this entire journey in Colombia; here are more pictures.

Fawn-breasted Brilliant (Heliodax rubinoides) Photo: Victoria Ho

Speckled Hummingbird (Adelomyia melanogenys) Photo: Pam Sadler

Tourmaline Sunangel (Heliangelus exortis) Photo: Pam Sadler

Buff-tailed Coronet  Photo: Pam Sadler

Long-tailed Sylph (Aglaiocercus kingii) Photo: Pam Sadler

White-bellied Woodstar (Chaetocercus mulsant) Photo: Pam Sadler

Collared Inca (Coeligena torquata) Photo: Pam Sadler

Buff-winged Starfrontlet (Coeligena lutetiae) Photo: Pam Sadler

Lesser Violetear (Colibri cyanotus) Photo: Pam Sadler

     We had left Dario back at the headquarters building and when we returned we found that the van had become stuck in soft, muddy ground.

     Every attempt to free it resulted in it getting mired a little deeper. Finally we set out to walk aways while Dario waited for a tow truck or other vehicle to come in from the city to pull him out.

     After a half hour or so of walking, birding along the way of course, our extricated van caught up with us, and we headed off towards a kind of dam or weir where Liliana knew that we would find White-capped Dipper (Cinclus leucocephalus).

      This was a "lifer" for everyone but me.

      An additional thrill was a Torrent Tyrannulet (Serpophaga cinerea) busily catching insects and affording us excellent views.

     In Manizales we went to a unique coffee shop where the coffee is served in edible cups which were as delicious as the coffee itself.

     Selwyn was positively brimming with anticipation.

     

     Here is a close up of the coffee and its delicious cup.

         That evening we had dinner in a restaurant in an ultra modern shopping mall which would have been a high end location even in North America.

     I forget what I had but I remember it being enjoyable - a fine end to a great day.