04 December, 2025
Estelar Recinto del Pensamiento - Río Blanco Reserve
As usual, we wandered around the grounds at the hotel for a while before breakfast, and as was the case each morning there were birding gems.
A couple of Acorn Woodpeckers (Melanerpes formicivorus) was a very pleasing sight.
Photo: Victoria Ho
Some of the others saw Cattle Tyrant (Machetornis tixosa) more than once, but it eluded me and I am grateful to Victoria for this picture.
It reminds me that I saw my first Cattle Tyrant ever, in Colombia, in 2010.
Located only around 3 kilometres from Manizales, Río Blanco is a huge reserve (around 5,000 hectares) and a perfect spot for some serious birding. It is known for the relative ease with which one might see a couple of Antpittas, birds notoriously hard to spot in the deep recesses of the rainforest understory.
As far as I can tell Angel Paz in Ecuador pioneered the technique of providing worms to antpittas, successfully calling them in to feed. This is where I first encountered the practice and was amazed when Maria, a Giant Antpitta (Grallaria gigantea) responded to her name and came to claim her breakfast.
The practice has spread to other locations in Ecuador, and obviously to Colombia, too. Here it worked to perfection and it was not long before we thrilled to a Chestnut-crowned Antpitta (Grallaria ruficapilla).
Photo: Jim Bowman
The bird returned several times to gobble down a few more worms, so we had time to really appreciate it.
Here is the little clearing where the antpitta came to feed.
Not surprisingly, other species clued into the meal delivery schedule, and a Grey-browed Brushfinch (Arremon assimilis) was not reluctant to claim a seat at the table.
Photo: Victoria Ho
The city of Manizales was spread out before us, revealing that like everywhere else in the world urbanization is encroaching on natural areas and displacing wildlife.
It was cool high in the mountains, with rain pounding down from time to time. Liliana looks like she is offering invocations for good weather.
At the high elevations of our journey to the reserve, the road was inadequate for vehicular traffic. Supplies for road repairs and other purposes were brought in by mules.
These poor animals seem destined for a miserable life of hard physical work each day. I doubt that they receive much of what would pass for affection and they probably never get a chance to enjoy the tranquility of an alpine meadow.
There were many great birds to see, including this species currently known by the jaw-breaking moniker, Pink-billed Cnemoscopus (Cnemoscopus rubirostris).
Photo: Victoria Ho
It was formerly known as Grey-hooded Bush Tanager; sometimes maybe the taxonomists should leave well enough alone!
Many different species of hummingbird were present and we took great delight in every one of them.
Pam's picture of a couple of Buff-tailed Coronets (Boissonneaua favescens) squabbling, as is their wont, with a Lesser Violetear (Colibri coruscans) keeping a close eye on them, is quite sensational.
Photo: Pam Sadler
We observed from a number of different spots throughout the reserve, sometimes from the roadside.
Birds were everywhere!
Here are mules again.
A Northern Slaty Brushfinch (Atlapetes schistaceus) took full advantage of the numerous bird feeders around the property.
Photo: Victoria Ho
We were sheltering from a downpour and Pam seized the opportunity for a group photo. I had not packed rain gear of any kind so I was grateful to Ernesto for the loan of a waterproof jacket.
Río Blanco was the only location where we saw Black Flowerpiercer (Diglossa numeralis).
As the following pictures show, they are equally willing to sip sugar water from a hummingbird feeder.
Masked Flowerpiercer (D.cyanea) Photo: Victoria Ho
White-sided Flowerpiercer (D. albilatera) Photo: Victoria Ho
Shining Sunbeam (Aglaeactis cupripennis) was the most common hummingbird, and they put on quite a show for us.
To really appreciate their name, you need to see the back of the bird with its stunning iridescence.
Photo: Victoria Ho
It is territorial and pugnacious and will defend its territory and access to food against all comers, including other Shining Sunbeams.
Photo: Victoria Ho
It does not shy away from a tussle with larger birds; here it is engaged with a White-sided Flowerpiercer.
Photo: Victoria Ho
It is both insectivorous and frugivorous.
Photo: Victoria Ho
Here it is seen feeding on berries but it was not reluctant to take advantage of the fruit made available at the feeding stations.
Our only sighting of Pearled Treerunner (Margarornis squamiger) occurred at Río Blanco.
Photo: Victoria Ho
Photo: Victoria Ho
Photo: Victoria Ho
A toucan is always the star of an avian show, and the appearance of a Grey-breasted Mountain Toucan (Andigena hypoglauca) set our hearts aflutter.
Photo: Victoria Ho
This species mainly eats fruits and it showed itself very adept at swallowing grapes set out as bait.
Photo: Victoria Ho
I am not sure whether this Eared Dove (Zenaida auriculata) was running to get out of the rain or doing a high-stepping dance in it!
Photo: Victoria Ho
Brown-banded Antpitta (Grallaria milleri)
This butterfly is in the genus Panyapedaliodes, but beyond that I have no information to offer.
Many tropical butterflies are seriously understudied. It causes me great angst when I think of the amount of money it takes to produce just one cruise missile (whose only purpose is destruction), yet scientists and researchers are continually having to struggle to secure even meagre funding for their work.
Genus: Corades Photo: Pam Sadler
Genus: Fountainea Photo: Pam Sadler
Another Masked Flowerpiercer posed very nicely.
A couple of Buff-tailed Coronets (Boissoneaua flavescens) were sizing each other up, like prize fighters in a boxing ring, waiting for the action to begin. Looks like the trash talk has already started!
Photo: Victoria Ho
It didn't take long!
Photo: Victoria Ho
Hummingbirds were a large part of this entire journey in Colombia; here are more pictures.
Fawn-breasted Brilliant (Heliodax rubinoides) Photo: Victoria Ho
Speckled Hummingbird (Adelomyia melanogenys) Photo: Pam Sadler
Tourmaline Sunangel (Heliangelus exortis) Photo: Pam Sadler
Buff-tailed Coronet Photo: Pam Sadler
Long-tailed Sylph (Aglaiocercus kingii) Photo: Pam Sadler
White-bellied Woodstar (Chaetocercus mulsant) Photo: Pam Sadler
Collared Inca (Coeligena torquata) Photo: Pam Sadler
Buff-winged Starfrontlet (Coeligena lutetiae) Photo: Pam Sadler
Lesser Violetear (Colibri cyanotus) Photo: Pam Sadler
We had left Dario back at the headquarters building and when we returned we found that the van had become stuck in soft, muddy ground.
Every attempt to free it resulted in it getting mired a little deeper. Finally we set out to walk aways while Dario waited for a tow truck or other vehicle to come in from the city to pull him out.
After a half hour or so of walking, birding along the way of course, our extricated van caught up with us, and we headed off towards a kind of dam or weir where Liliana knew that we would find White-capped Dipper (Cinclus leucocephalus).
This was a "lifer" for everyone but me.
An additional thrill was a Torrent Tyrannulet (Serpophaga cinerea) busily catching insects and affording us excellent views.
In Manizales we went to a unique coffee shop where the coffee is served in edible cups which were as delicious as the coffee itself.
Selwyn was positively brimming with anticipation.
Here is a close up of the coffee and its delicious cup.
That evening we had dinner in a restaurant in an ultra modern shopping mall which would have been a high end location even in North America.
I forget what I had but I remember it being enjoyable - a fine end to a great day.
...I find it amazing that there are so many different birds!
ReplyDeleteColombia has more than any other country on Earth, Tom.
DeleteThere are really exotic birds you are showing pictures of today, David. Victoria Ho is really very good at taking great pictures.
ReplyDeleteThere are so many beautiful pictures, that I can't even choose a favorite!
Hugs and kisses, Marit
And there are many more, Marit. I can’t include everything.
DeleteThose photos are absolutely breathtaking. The iridescence on the Shining Sunbeam is just stunning, and the Grey-breasted Mountain Toucan is such a handsome star of the show. It’s amazing how Maria the Antpitta actually responds to her name; nature never ceases to surprise me.
ReplyDeleteStunning photos, and I have to say, every single bird here would be a lifer for me, I have seen none of these, and not even photos or in zoos. I have seen doves, but maybe not like this one and I have seen mules and felt the same way you do... I also know that the man with the mules is just like his mules, leading a life of hard backbreaking work, and probably no love. a really hard life... no wonder all of you bird lovers love Columbia. Wow!
ReplyDeleteDear David (or should I call you the Butterfly Whisperer? The Parisama appeli was quite taken with you!)!
ReplyDeleteI've now read your travelogue from part one to this point – starting with your somewhat difficult journey, including the flight delay, and your first bird sightings. You already know how much I love hummingbirds (and the ladies took some fantastic photos of them and some other birds!) – but the Moustached Puffbird also quickly won my heart! I recognized some of the birds from our Costa Rica trip, and I was delighted to see them again. As you know, I'm always very taken with particularly colorful birds (because we don't have many of them in Austria), and there really seem to be a great number of them in Colombia. The Vermilion Flycatcher even surpasses the Cardinal in redness!!! But I can also be fascinated by less conspicuous birds. The White-capped Dipper, for example, is a delightful sight. Do I remember correctly that flower piercers use the same method of piercing flowers as banana quits? They'll still never get to enjoy coffee from edible cups – which really do look delicious.
I'm looking forward to part 4!
All the best, Traude
https://rostrose.blogspot.com/2026/01/reisebericht-2025-vogelbegegnungen.html