Thursday, January 23, 2025

Birding in Costa Rica - Part 1

     You have already met the members of our group, so I'll get right into the details of our trip.

04 January, 2025
Waterloo - Pearson International Airport - San José, Costa Rica

     We had received a fairly substantial snowfall, with the promise of more, so I was out at 05h:00 to shovel the driveway.
     Our Airways Transit vehicle arrived a little ahead of schedule, but we were ready, and proceeded to pick up the others, and set off to the airport. As always, having dutifully arrived three hours before departure, we settled in for the long wait. 
     Miriam and I both had a noodle bowl, which was very good, and greatly preferable to the dross served on the flight at exorbitant prices. We were slightly delayed by the necessity to deice the plane, but were soon in the air for our nonstop flight to San José.
     We were greeted on arrival by Ernesto and Tania from Cuba, and our Costa Rican guide, Carlos, and our driver John. We were whisked off to the Bougainvillea to spend the night, happy to be reunited with this outstanding hotel.
     We were in bed by 00h:40 and I got about four hours sleep.

05 January, 2025
Bougainvillea Hotel - Las Vueltas Reserve - San Gerardo de Dota (Savegre Hotel)

     I was up early and went down to the gardens to get an early start on birding. I was joined by Victoria a little later and the others drifted in at various times until we were all together.

     As usual, the birding was excellent.
     Our most exciting discovery was a Mottled Owl (Strix virgata) located by Tania, roosting deep in a stand of bamboo.


     Variegated Squirrel (Sciurus variegatoides) is very attractive, and every bit as mischievous and rambunctious as the squirrels at home.


     We were delighted to discover a Monarch (Danaus plexippus) caterpillar - the form found here is resident and not migratory - feeding on Tropical Milkweed (Asclepias curassavica).


     A Golden Silk Spider (Trichonephila clavipes) is exquisitely handsome.




     In close proximity there was an interesting spider in the genus Micrathena.



     Red-billed Pigeon (Patagioenas flavirostris) is a common resident, often favouring the highest point on a tree.


     Tropical Kingbird (Tyrannus melancholicus) is so common that it barely merits a second glance in Costa Rica - but oh to see one today!


     A trio of Great Kiskadees (Pitangus sulphuratus) might well be interpreted as a welcoming committee.


     The fungi were very appealing but I have been unable to identify them.



     If you ask a birder heading for Costa Rica about a species high on his/her wish list, especially a first time visitor, it is likely to be Lesson's Motmot (Motmotus lessoni), a spectacular bird.


     What a beauty!


     This huge Green Iguana (Iguana iguana), basking in a treetop, is probably a grandfather many times over.


     An Aurucarian tree is always spectacular and it was a pleasure to encounter this one.



     A couple of Grey-headed Chachalacas (Ortalis cinereiceps) bounded through the trees, chattering exuberantly.


     The familiar gestalt of a skipper led us to a Yellow-tipped Flasher (Telegonus anausis).


     Several other butterflies were fluttering around and given more time we could have probably photographed many of them.
     Before going in for breakfast a Hoffmann's Woodpecker (Melanerpes hoffmannii) was a feast for the eyes.


     The buffet breakfast was, as always first class. I had rice and beans, plantain and fruit, and good Costa Rican coffee.
     Shortly afterwards we piled into the vehicle to head south. Onwards to Las Vueltas Reserve, a private nature sanctuary run by a family whose parents emigrated from Michigan and settled in this part of Costa Rica. It was a delight to make the acquaintance of the children of the original settlers and their children - proud Ticos all.
      As we walked up the road towards the lodge there was much to occupy our attention.


     I believe that in the following picture there is Haircap Moss (family Polytrichaceae) and Ground Cedars (genus Diphasiastrum).


     Lichens are always captivating.


     It is a long time since I last saw Poor Man's Umbrella (Gunnera insignis) and it was a distinct pleasure to come across it again.


     In fact, it was quite prolific along the roadside.


     There are around 7,500 species of Blister Beetle around the world, including this pair of Meloe tropicus, clearly distracted and unmoved by our presence.


    Old tree stumps harbour so much life and are visually appealing without even knowing much about the miniature ecosystem.




     A Sooty-capped Chlorospingus (Chlorospingus pileatus) kept company with us for a while.


     Bromeliads are such a vital part of tropical forests; this Beautiful Large Bromeliad (Werauhia ororiensis) is a sparkling example.


     Water droplets dance in the sunlight, shimmering and beautiful, renewable, predictable - and free.


     This plant is found in the genus Glossoloma.


     We ambled up the hill, observant to everything around us, following our intrepid leader, Carlos.


     A Black-capped Flycatcher (Empidonax atriceps) was a thoroughly delightful jaunty companion.


     We arrived at the lodge for lunch, warmly welcomed by friendly humans and friendly canines.



     The views were breathtaking.



     Yet another Black-capped Flycatcher chirruped cheerfully to us. 


     And a duo of my all-time favourite birds disported close at hand. I give you the ever-engaging Rufous-collared Sparrow (Zonotrichia capensis).


     A Black-billed Nightingale-Thrush (Catharus gracilirostris), like all members of the genus, is an accomplished chorister, shimmying and fluttering its wings in bursts of ecstatic arpeggio.


     A Black-and-Yellow Phainoptila (Phainoptila melanoxantha) played hide-and-seek for a while and then agreed to a picture or two.


     This is the nest of Long-waisted Honey Wasps (genus Polybia).


     Based on the nest architecture, it may well be in the subgenus Formicicola, indicating a proclivity to live in the close proximity of ants.
     In any event they seemed not to be especially threatening, but perhaps they were sluggish in the rainy, cool conditions. We chose not to tempt fate, and when I got too close Tina shrieked, "Get away from there, David!" Kudos to Miriam for the picture.
     In the genus Monnina.


     Kuldip bellissimus.


     A magnificent Podocarp (family Podocarpaceae).


     Attempting to identify ferns can cause sane men to go off the deep end, and the best I can tell you about this superlative specimen is that it is in the class Polypodiopsida - and that doesn't tell you much at all!


     Here is perhaps another kind of wasp or hornet nest, or is it the seed of the tree? I am not sure! 



     I have narrowed this gorgeous little flower down to the genus Monochaetum.


     Scaly Tree Ferns family (family Cyatheaceae) always remind me of deep antiquity; in fact fossils have been found in the late Jurassic.



     Time was slipping through our fingers and we needed to climb aboard the bus to travel onwards to San Gerardo de Dota. 
     We arrived at the Savegre Hotel, our home for the next three nights, at around 16h:00, time to relax, shower, watch the feeders, stroll - whatever took one's fancy.



     Our room was lovely, the bed inviting.


     We knew we would be happy here.
    
David M. Gascoigne,
David M. Gascoigne,

I'm a life long birder. My interests are birds, nature, reading, books, outdoors, travel, food and wine.

73 comments:

  1. It is wonderful to see both birds and plants from Costa Rica, David. Tree ferns are unfortunately not a climate for where I live, but I wish I had some in my garden anyway. They are incredibly beautiful.
    Hugs and kisses, Marit

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  2. Wow, wow, wow, wow!!! from spiders and hornets nests to that gorgeous motmot , sorry can't remember how its spelled and the ferns. there is not one thing that I would skip seeing if I were there. what wonderful trip and to meet your Cuban friends is fantastic. lovely room . awesome photos, each and every one..

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  3. Your happiness is evident in every word and every photo. Which is lovely. Thank you for sharing the magic.

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  4. Absolutely stunning and interesting photos. I was wowed right from the start with the Mottled Owl ! What an adventure.

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  5. ...thanks David for showing me around. Gunnera insignis has been a favorite of mine for your, I've seem huge ones in the Portland, OR area!

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  6. What a wonderful day. Thanks for having us along.

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  7. Those two spiders are stunning, wonderful colours and shapes. I like the shiny Blister Beetles having a cuddle too. So many unusual birds peeking at you from the branches, you must have been a very happy birder!!

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  8. Wow, the range of birds you saw before breakfast is amazing. I love the colourful birds and I'll even give a nod to the spider.

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  9. Always fun to see all the pics from your trips! Well, except for the spiders. ;)

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  10. So amazing! Who took the pictures of that spider? Absolutely stunning and I don't even like spiders!!! And that Lesson's Motmot is truly a beauty.

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    1. Miriam took the pictures of the spiders. In fact, all of the images in this post are hers.

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  11. Hello David,
    yes, we have already met these great people and part 1 already promises that it can get even better, I am excited about the rest of the travel report. A question for you, David; Can you identify all of these bird species or do you have to pick up a book or something similar to identify them? Your specialist knowledge is incredibly brilliant
    Greetings, Frank

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    1. Hi, Frank: I am comfortable identifying most of the birds without consulting a field guide. This was my fourth visit to Costa Rica and I have also been to Panama twice so I have developed a level of familiarity with them. Female hummingbirds are a bit of a challenge though!

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  12. Wonderful to see all the creatures along with fungi and views. Love the spider.
    Interesting beetles, they were busy.

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  13. Lot of interesting pics..keep them coming

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  14. Hari OM
    Oh yes, this is going to be a very fine adventure!!! Thank you, David, for taking us places most of us will never go ourselves. YAM xx

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  15. What a great series of photos of your trip David.
    I think the golden silk spider is beautiful and the Lessons motmotis is indeed a beauty.
    I wish you a very nice weekend.
    Greetings Irma

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  16. Wow, what incredible photos, this makes me even sadder that we never got to Costa Rica. Never the less I so enjoyed travelling with you and Miriam. So many great photos that all need comments but I have to pick that spider out as very special and very beautiful. Happy weekend, bisous mon ami. Diane

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    1. It really is a shame, Diane, but Namibia was a good alternative it seems, and I suspect that Africa is always your preferred destination.

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    2. Yes we love Africa but it would have been good to see somewhere different. With Nigel's back and the cancellation of this year's holiday I am not sure if we will ever do any long trips again. This was planned as our last one. Xx

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  17. These are truly spectacular photos. My congratulations to Miriam and you for showing us so much beauty and letting us accompany you on this wonderful journey.
    Un abrazo

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  18. I think I would be in heaven walking around there looking at all the moss and lichen is simply amazing!
    I even looked at staying in Costa Rica for an extended period of time.

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  19. It looks fabulous. And it is very different from what I remember the Osa Penninsula being. The amount of biodiversity in that country is staggering. I went on a school sponsored trip, and I remember seeing so many different birds and plants that I couldn't identify. We visited and worked in various schools for much of our 10 days, so there really wasn't anyone to help ID anything, BUT I do remember the giant boa that went 3/4 of the way across the road. Now the road was a little narrow dirt set of tracks going into the jungle, but that snake was the biggest I had ever seen. I also remember going on a jungle hike and our guide smelling the wild pigs/peccaries that had only recently been by. I guess they can be rather dangerous, according to what he said. Looking forward to he next post about your trip.

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    1. I have not seen peccaries in Costa Rica, but I have seen them in other countries, and they can indeed be dangerous, capable of disemboweling you with their tusks. They will sometimes come into campgrounds in search of human food and foolish people treat them as cute pets - much like people approaching bison and grizzlies in Yellowstone.

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  20. Hello David and Miriam, Wow this is pure paradise for plants, birds, mamals, insects and humans. May it stay like this for manny future generations.
    Stunning. Did Miriam take those beautiful photos?
    Warm regards,
    Roos

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    1. All the pictures in this post were taken by Miriam, Roos.

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  21. So many wonders and so much beauty. I'm thrilled you had an opportunity to take this trip.

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  22. Absolutely stunning. I was mesmerized by that spider. A Golden Silk Spider (Trichonephila clavipes). Truly beautiful.

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  23. This sounds and looks lovely. I look forward to the next instalment. Great photos, Miriam!

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  24. A beautiful holiday with excellent photos of birds, plants and views David and Miriam. My favorite is the Motmotus lessoni and the owl. Have a nice weekend !

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  25. When we stayed at the Bougainvillea Hotel last year, we saw that owl and two other species in the garden, as well as quite a few other birds. I love the Mott-Mott — it’s hard to include its entire amazing tail in a photo. I’m looking forward to the rest of your trip as I believe it was to entirely different parts of the country than the trips we have made.
    best… mae at maefood.blogspot.com

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    1. On other visits, other than for the OSA Peninsula, I have covered most of the country.

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  26. Fabulous first part !
    The diversity is impressive !
    Thanks for sharing your beautiful photos !
    Have a cozy weekend !
    Anna

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  27. It must have been amazing to see all these wonderful sights. The spiders were very interesting specimens, fascinating! I enjoyed reading about everything you saw. Outstanding photos as always Thanks David! Another great learning session that gives me the curiosity to find out more.

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  28. Goodness..it was only lunchtime and it seemed as though you had already put in a full day.
    A birders paradise for sure.Miriams pictures are those that make one want to see more..
    The Silk Spider is handsome indeed as is Lesson's Motmot.Great photo of the Iguana..
    So many comments, so little time..Loved the post and I appreciate the time it took you to put it all together.Hugs

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  29. Querido David que viaje tan maravilloso, me gusta todo lo que veo en las grandes fotos de Miriam, mi enhorabuena para ella. Pero me quedé enamorada de las arañas, wow son preciosas. Muchas gracias por compartirlo con nosotros. Un fuerte abrazo para ti y para Miriam.

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  30. What a wonderful start to your adventure! Despite the snowy morning, it seems like everything went smoothly, and the Bougainvillea Hotel sounds like the perfect place to unwind after your journey. I can already imagine the beauty of those early birding moments in the gardens – what a peaceful way to begin the day! I’m sure the Costa Rican sights and experiences are going to be amazing. Wishing you a fabulous time ahead, and enjoy every minute of your travels! Have a fantastic weekend!

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  31. Muy interesante los insectos y las aves que aparece en tu reportaje.
    Feliz fin de semana.

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  32. A wonderful start to a fabulous adventure. Beautiful photos, Miriam and wonderful narrative, David.

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  33. Fantastic pictures! Thank you, Miriam, for taking them and David for sharing them.

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  34. Kiitos David, kiitos Miriam. Nautin kuvienne katsomisesta ja matkakertouksestanne. Te ja ryhmänne nautitte matkastanne suunnattomasti, sen huomaa. Sinulla on mahtava tietovarasto ja luontotuntemus!

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  35. What an excellent start to your trip!

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  36. Hello David,
    Looks like your trip is off to a great day on day one. I love the Owl and the Motmot.
    Miriam's photos are a treat for the eyes, all the nature scenes, plants and insects are beautifully captured. The birds will always be a favorite for me, great sightings.
    Thank you so much for your critter post and sharing your link. Take care, have a great weekend. PS, thank you for leaving me a comment.

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  37. Amazing Costa Rica trip so far, great photos and story!

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  38. All the hotels look lovely and so does that luncheon lodge! I can tell this has to be a paradise for a bird person like you -- so many gorgeous varieties. And it looks like you have fine traveling companions as well. If this is only day one, whatever will we see in the future?!

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  39. David, It’s been 2 weeks ago, Jan. 11th, since I recall stopping by Travels with Birds, because I noticed you did not link up with Saturday’s Critters. I wondered why. I discovered, by looking at the comments, that you were in Costa Rica, and would be returning home on about the 17th. So, recalling your last year’s expedition, I knew we had a lot to look forward to. Part 1 is an excellent start. Congratulations on another birding adventure and thank you for sharing your story and captures with us! John

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  40. I love the spiders. Great photos David and good to see other parts of the world :-D

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  41. Simply fabulous.
    What a great start to your trip.

    All the best Jan

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  42. Love the birds of course and that flycatcher is a cutie but I also love your pictures of the flora. And that silk spider is gorgeous.

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  43. Hi David, lucky you!! Great story and breathtaking photos. My favorite is the black-capped flycatcher.. but the silk spider is also stunning. And the first morning start with an Owl....
    Regards Maria

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  44. Just brilliant photos. So many beautiful creatures and places. Thank you for joining FFO.

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  45. Todo me gusta querido amigo David, yo necesitaría mucho tiempo para verlo todo y no terminaría de mirarlo. Que te digo que me gusta más, la araña, las aves, las flores, musgos, te digo que todo. Abrazos para Miriam, por ser tan buena fotógrafa y para ti por tan buen reportaje ( que estaba deseando verlo y espero muchos más ).

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  46. Well, David, I think you already know that I would love this post with all the lichen - oh, and spiders! And such fascinating ones. What a wonderful first day you had with fantastic photos by Miriam. You threw me off a bit with the Aurucarian tree, it reminds me a lot of the Cook Pines I saw in Hawai'i, so my curiosity was raised and I researched - darn little typo! I'm not sure that this Araucaria is the same as the one in Hawai'i, but it sure is unique. I loved the ones I saw on the Big Island near the tree house we stayed in. You mentioned Ernesto and Tania from Cuba - THE Ernesto and Tania that we met in your Cuba posts? How very lovely to see them again. I look forward to your next posts about this fascinating country.

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  47. Hello David :)
    After scrolling up and down several times, your post is everything I had expected but much more. It wasn't possible to get here sooner David but it's been an absolute joy to see all these exquisite inhabitants of Costa Rica starting with the Mottled Owl and the Golden Silk Spider, a magnificent arachnid studded with tiny jewels, or so it seems. The Lesson's Motmot is a vision of loveliness. The photos are spectacular thanks to your lovely wife Miriam. Thank you Miriam.:) Enchanting visions of the sweet Black-capped Flycatcher and Rufous -collered Sparrow, not forgetting the lovely but understated appearance of the Black-billed Nightingale Thrush. All the exotic plants are delightful
    and new to me, some astonishing in their uniqueness, made even more
    amazing by your knowledgeable narration about them David. Thank you so much to you both for the first of your exciting Costa Rica posts.
    Hugs and kisses.
    Sonjia

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  48. Hi David.

    This is enjoyable, you show so much beauty.
    So many beautiful flowers, plants, trees.
    How nice and beautiful that Little Squirrel.
    Beautiful that Woodpecker
    Very beautiful that Black Flycatcher
    Although I would quickly walk past spiders, I would also stop for a moment at this Golden Silk Spider because it is really beautiful.

    Greetings from Patricia.

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  49. Amazing photos and snow in Puerto Rico???..hmmm.something must be terrible wrong
    I am glad you had a good time.Outstanding post😍Greetings😊

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  50. Fascinating photos, dear David.
    How big is this breathtaking green iguana - it looks like a backdrop for a science fiction film.
    The landscape is beautiful. I could even make friends with these colorful spiders.
    Oh, how lovely, you'll have a lot more to tell. Best wishes until then.

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  51. What a great variety of birds and plants, all on the first day! Your photos certainly send a tropical vibe! Is it very humid there at this time of year?

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    1. Depends on the area of the country. The areas through which we travelled were mostly at medium to high elevations where excessive heat and humidity was not a problem.

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  52. Prachtig reisverslag David.
    Wat heb je veel gezien en gefotografeerd, mooi hoor.
    De spin vind ik geweldig.
    Groetjes Tinie

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  53. Such an exciting trip! And what wonderful photos you've posted, thank you! Costa Rica is clearly a paradise for birders!

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  54. Precious birds that I have never seen and much, much more!
    It is a privilege to be able to enjoy nature in places very different from those we are used to.
    May you have a great time, David!
    All the best,
    JR

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  55. What an amazing first post o your recent trip, David, and while the birds are always wonderful to see, the spiders, iguana and various other sights were what caught my attention. I will be anticipating the continuation of posts on this Costa Rican adventure.

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  56. What a beautiful country is Costa Rica, Pura Vida!

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  57. I knew that you had taken a trip to one of the places with the most biodiversity and today I made time to read and enjoy your story, accompanied by beautiful images. You can see that there is a good exuberance in that place, and to my surprise many birds come to my house, despite being thousands of kilometers away. Regards

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  58. Hi David - those spiders are just beautiful; the fungi look almost photoshopped in; yes – the Lesson's Motmot is just staggeringly beautiful: what colouration; while the iguana – amazing chap!; the auracaria is handsome; so pleased to see the old tree stumps with their 'accoutrements' while those bromeliads – and the rest … so much to see – thanks for the descriptions and excellent photos. Cheers Hilary

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