Birding in Cuba - November, 2023 - Part 3

22 November, 2023

Las Salinas - Hondones 

One touch of nature makes the whole world kin.

William Shakespeare

     Breakfast, as always, was a fine affair, and we had more than enough to eat, with excellent coffee, that essential elixir for North Americans.

     Adding to the pleasure of our morning meal was the company of Damita and Jose, along with Elisabeth, (Ellie) the most recent member of their family, the new wife of Jose, Jr.  

     Is she not a charming and beautiful young lady?

     How happy they all are together.

     Damita was anxious to let me know, "I love her like my own daughter."

     Jose, Jr was away on a course to complete his certification as a diving instructor, but I was happy to hear that he would be arriving back home just before we would leave.

     As I was gazing over the balcony, enjoying the world going by, I observed the unusual spectacle of a man leading a boar down the street; whether he was destined to become pork chops or to oblige a lustful sow I was unable to tell, but I earnestly hope for the latter!

      The other members of our group, staying at a different house, joined us, and we boarded the bus to penetrate the Zapata Swamp at Las Salinas, to take part in what surely must rank as one of the major avian spectacles of the Western Hemisphere. Jovany, our ever reliable driver, delivered us there.

     One of the star attractions was a Reddish Egret (Egretta rufescens), that madcap dancer of the long-legged troupe of herons and egrets.

     Black-necked Stilt (Himantopus mexicanus) is an exceptionally handsome bird, always appealing, teetering on those outrageous legs, and there were many probing in the lagoons.

     Wood Storks (Mycteria americana) were usually either far off or in flight, but Brian managed to capture this image.

     To choose avian "superstars" is probably a bit of a fool's game, but a case could be made for American Flamingo (Phoenicopterus ruber), of that I am confident. (Essential reading: The Flamingo's Smile, Stephen Jay Gould).

     It is incredible how they all face the same direction and march in unison like soldiers on a parade ground. It is a spectacle never to be forgotten.

     We saw many Roseate Spoonbills (Platalea ajaja) but most were in flight, speeding by above our heads in the direction of rich feeding grounds I presume.

     What a great shot Lorraine was able to take.

     It is not so many years ago that American White Pelicans (Pelecanus erythrothynchus) were uncommon visitors, but they have obviously found much to their liking and are now commonly seen.

     Clapper Rail (Rallus crepitans) is the consummate secretive skulker of the wetlands so we considered ourselves fortunate to have one put on a bit of a display for us.

     Such a joy!

     Lunch was taken at a little restaurant on the Bay of Pigs, where fresh fish takes on a whole new meaning.

     It was delicious!

     Contented birders were transformed into hungry diners and everyone tucked in.

     I am not quite sure why Mary Ann is grimacing, but I am confident it had nothing to do with the food.

     We repaired to our rooms, enjoyed a siesta until around 15h:00, when coffee and pleasant chit-chat was enjoyed - in Spanish and English - and then it was off to Hondones to Tania's house for new and exciting birds that have found haven in this little corner of paradise.

     Blue-headed Quail Dove (Starnoenas cyanocephala) is described in the literature as an "uncommon resident" (The Birds of Cuba (2020), or "originally common but its populations have drastically decreased (Endemic Birds of Cuba (2015); in Tania's garden it patronizes her feeders!

     It is joined there by many other species. How does this female Yellow-faced Grassquit (Tiaris olivaceus) take your fancy?

     A Northern Parula (Setophaga americana) is eagerly sought after by keen twitchers at Point Pelee and other migratory hotspots in Ontario, but is never easy to find. In Cuba it comes to backyards, never eschewing a chance to sample a little sugar water set out for hummingbirds.

     Black-throated Blue Warbler (Setophaga caerulescens) is a very common winter visitor.

     Perhaps this female was only weeks ago spending time with us back home. It's hard not to be a little wistful about that possibility.

     The undoubted marquee attraction for everyone present was the indescribably beautiful and uniquely appealing Cuban Tody (Todus multicolor).

    This little package of splendour, no bigger than a chickadee is a heart-stopper. No one remains indifferent to its charm.

     We would see it on several occasions throughout our journey through Cuba, but never was it met with anything less than wild enthusiasm and cameras immediately swung in its direction.

     As we left the house a flock of Cuban Amazons (Amazon leucocephala) came to feed; if there is a more lovely goodbye committee I have yet to discover it.

     Our final quest for the afternoon, now rapidly waning and dusk falling, was Bare-legged Owl (Margarobyas lawrencii). It took a while, but we finally found it, and left knowing without the shadow of a doubt that birding is the best occupation in the world!

     After our usual delicious dinner, Tania, Brian, Karl and I stayed to see if we could find the American Barn Owls (Tyto furcata) that we knew were roosting in the water tower adjacent to our accommodation.

     Our patience was rewarded and we had great looks at this enigmatic bird, often common yet difficult to see.

     What a great day it had been.