Birding in Cuba - February, 2023 - Part 3

12 February, 2023

Santo Tomás -  Los Hondones - Canal de Los Hondones

     Damita and Jose got up early to make coffee for us as we left at 05h:30 to head to the small community of Santo Tomás, whence we would embark on a journey deep into the swamp in a pole boat. It was a pleasure just to start the day with our congenial hosts. Jim and Barb were staying at the same casa as Miriam and me (and Tania) and we picked up the others en route.

     Even before getting to the embarkation point, one of the distinct highlights of the entire trip occurred as far as I was concerned. Nightjars are never easy to see, but Tania worked her magic and we had two of them calling and in short order had fabulous views of them both resting on the road, and in the surrounding trees. I mean closeup, detailed, clear, gobsmacking views. It was nothing short of magical. My toes tingled for the rest of the day!

     Unfortunately, we have no pictures to record the moment since all of this activity took place in total darkness. I will never forget the glow of the bird's eyes and their "short, evenly pitched, trilled whistle." At times they were right over our heads. Everyone was thrilled I know, but I was chatting with Victoria and  she was as blown away as I was.

     Days may start better; doubtless at times they do, but for us it couldn't have been any better than that February morning in Cuba.

     Soon we arrived at our destination, being always in the safe, steady hands of Jiovani as he mastefully manoeuvered the vehicle along mandering, basic roads.

     It was not quite light, and there was a shroud of mist hanging over the swamp and an American Kestrel (Falco sparverius) peered at us from the gloom.

     Soon we were joined by our boatmen with their poles. 

     Tania and Tina strode along with them, accompanied by the obligatory guide in this part of the national park. That poor guy didn't really have a chance to leave an impression on any of us!

     There were several types of fern, as one might expect in this moist habitat. They are difficult enough to identify at home, let alone in Cuba, so other than saying with confidence that they are in the order Podypodiales I can offer no further clue as to their identification!

     Our boatmen were ready and waiting for us.

     I was lucky enough to share a boat with Lisa and Tina, the enthusiastic and ever upbeat, appropriately-named Den Besten sisters.

     We had meandered only a short distance along the channel when Tania heard a Zapata Sparrow (Torreornis inexpectata) and in mere minutes it popped into view.

     It is a very special moment for a birder to first encounter an endemic species, but I am confident that even non-birders would appreciate the unique satisfaction of seeing an organism that appears nowhere else on the planet. Even in Cuba, it is found only in the Zapata Swamp.

     I am not sure whether the gastropod eggs shown below belong to Apple Snails (Ampullariidae), but it is quite possible. 

     As you know from my previous post, Snail Kite (Rostrhamus sociabilis) occurs in Cuba, and they are specialist feeders on apple snails.

     Are these empty shells left after a bout of feeding?

     Is this a living apple snail?

     I claim no expertise at even the minutest level with gastropods, so if anyone can confirm or refute this conjecture, feel free to comment below.

     I think that the lizard in the next picture is a species of dwarf gecko (Sphaerodactylidae) but the specific identification eludes me.

     It appeared to have shed its skin and set about eating it.

     Whitetop Sedge (Rhynchospora colorata) dotted the banks of the channels and rivulets throughout the swamp.

     I am pretty sure that the following flower is a species of Swamp Smartweed (family Polygonaceae).

     A spider web embellished by sunlight and water droplets is the stuff of rare beauty.

      The channels were inviting, not yielding their secrets easily, but willing to surrender them to the diligent explorer.

     Jim was determined not to miss a thing.

     Selwyn and Victoria were equally vigilant.

     Their reward was another Zapata Sparrow.

     A Cuban Pewee (Contopus caribaeus) was perched in the open for all to see.

     The mysteries of this magical wetland were tantalizingly close.

     A Morning-glory (family Convolvulaceae) is instantly recognized the world over.

     Our first sighting of a Cuban Pygmy Owl (Glaucidium siju) evoked squeals of delight from everyone.

     A Great Lizard Cuckoo (Coccyzus merlini) thrilled everyone too.

     We had a brief, but clear view of Zapata Wren (Ferminia cerverai); unfortunately no one was able to get a picture of it.

     Look carefully in the picture below and you will see a Cuban Parakeet (Psittacara euops) giving a text book illustration of camouflage.

     Is this better?

     How about this?

     No one was unhappy to have another stellar view of a Great Lizard Cuckoo.

     Turkey Vultures (Cathartes aura) are usually seen soaring effortlessly in the sky, so it was interesting to observe this individual at close range.

     After our idyllic meander through the waterways we returned to Jiovani and our vehicle to have breakfast.

     There were several goats in the area, but they behaved with commendable restraint and never tried to snatch a sandwich from anyone.

     A Cuban Pewee kept us company.....

     ..... and a Killdeer (Charadrius vociferus) reminded us of home.

     With full stomachs, we entered a trail to search for the rare, regionally endemic Grey-headed Quail-Dove  (Geotrygon caniceps).

     Tania requested everyone to remain silent and scan for this secretive, hard-to-find bird.

     After a lengthy search we had glimpses of it, far off and camouflaged against the substrate. Not the most satisfactory experience of a "lifer" for everyone, but it would have to do.

     A great look at a Cuban Trogon (Priotelus temnurus) was much more satisfying.

     It's always good to glance at the ground. This insect looks very interesting, but I have been unable to identify it unfortunately.

     The rufous form of American Kestrel always piqued my interest no matter how many times I saw it.

     When it was time for lunch we went to a lovely little restaurant on the Bay of Pigs, site of a misplaced invasion of a tiny nation by a world superpower, ill-conceived in planning and implementation, and a proud legacy for Cuban patriots.

     Making use of all the space available, there was a very appealing cactus "garden."

     Lunch was a fine affair. I had fish soup, red snapper filets, rice, squash, salad, and coconut pudding and coffee. The waiter was friendly, the sun shone, we had Tania to take care of us, and the world was indeed a fine place.

     We all returned to our respective casas for siesta time. 

     Jim had trouble with his suitcase and knowing the ingenuity of Cubans for fixing anything, including vintage cars that would command a tidy sum in Canada from antique car enthusiasts, he inquired whether help to repair it might be an option.

     The crew sprang into action!

     Tania was quick to point out with wicked humour that it took four men!

     Jim decided he would assume a supervisory role only and sipped contently on his coffee.

      We left to go to Tania's house to watch birds in her backyard, with the guys working diligently on the suitcase. When we returned it was fixed - as Jim said, "Better than ever!"

      Just before going through Tania's gate we spotted 

a LaSagra's Flycatcher.

     Here we are going in, although it looks as though we are going out. We were evidently glancing back at something.

     A Cuban Pewee was one of the first birds to greet us.

     Tania had feeders of every type you could imagine and a suite of birds that boggled the mind!

     The trees were full of blackbirds, mainly Tawny-shouldered (Agelaius humeralis), wonderful to see.

     A Cape May Warbler (Setophaga tigrina) is an elusive species in Ontario; in Cuba it is a backyard bird!

     American Redstart (Setophaga ruticilla) is perhaps the most common warbler in Cuba.

     Yellow-faced Grassquit (Tiaris olivaceus) is both ubiquitous and delightful, and seemed to favour this feeder made from a split stalk of bamboo, filled with rice.

     Black-throated Blue Warbler (Setophaga caerulescens) will soon be responding to its Zugunruhe and will be leaving for breeding grounds in northern North America.

     Cuban Grassquit (Phonipara canora) is a very attractive Cuban endemic.

     West Indian Woodpecker (Melanerpes superciliaris) was very fond of coconut, returning to it over and over again.

     Just imagine how delighted you would be if Ovenbird (Seiurus aurocapilla) was a regular in your backyard.

     Greater Antillean Grackle (Quiscalus niger) showed the swagger of grackles everywhere.

     Red-legged Thrush (Turdus plumbeus) seemed as partial to coconuts as the West Indian Woodpecker.

     Selwyn's favourite, Cuban Emerald (Riccordia ricordii) - Zunzún to the cognoscenti, was frequently seen.

     A Grey Catbird (Dumetella carolinensis) is as delightful in Cuba as it is at home.

     Tania has quite a collection of little Bonsai trees.

     A Firecracker Plant (Russelia equisetiformis) is a magnet for hummingbirds.

     The tawny shoulder of a Tawny-shouldered Blackbird really is quite an insignificant feature.

     The little anole entertained us, but I am unable to come up with the species.

     Not nearly as showy as the warblers and woodpeckers, a pair of Common Ground Doves (Columbina passerina) was no less pleasing.

     Blue-headed Quail-Dove (Starnoenas cyanocephala) is a very handsome Cuban endemic, and Tania has a pair coming to her own backyard!

     Simply by sitting quietly they were coaxed into coming closer and closer to us.

     Before long they joined forces and went about their business together.

     It was nothing short of remarkable.

     Here you see the size comparison between the two columbids.

     A Zenaida Dove (Zenaida aurita) rounded out a trio.

     We were a very happy group of birders, sitting in an enchanted garden, sipping coconut water from freshly topped shells, with visions of tropical wonder all around us.

     A water feature was popular with the birds, both for bathing and drinking.

     Flowers abounded - but that doesn't mean I was able to identify all of them!

     Tania's garden was an oasis of calm and beauty.

     I am quite sure that this Northern Mockingbird (Mimus polyglottos) would be in compete agreement.

     Even the wall was interesting and no doubt harboured many arthropods and other tiny creatures. Small lizards patrolled the crannies in search of invertebrate prey.

     A couple of local children rushed out to see Tania, and Barb kindly removed a couple of Canada flag pins from her clothing to donate to them.

     A Cuban Pewee seemed to be losing a feather and was complaining about it!

     Soursop, or Guanabana (Annonaceae) is a popular, delicious fruit.

     I think this flower is Bidens odorata (ok, no jokes about the US President!), but I am not a hundred percent confident of my ID.  

     A Cuban Tody (Todus multicolor) on the other hand is unmistakeable.

     We went for a walk and searched for Bare-legged Owl (Margarobyas lawrencii) near this cenote.

     Tania has seen this species here before but we were unable to locate it. We returned later, however, when it was almost dark, and to Victoria went the honour of finding it. It was a brief look, masked by the gloom, but our target species, nevertheless.

     Our final stop of the day was at the Hondones Canal.

     We were joined by an Anhinga (Anhinga anhinga) and a Great Blue Heron (Ardea herodias) as the sun slowly set on a perfect day.

     Sundown was magnificent.....

     ..... and it was a happy group of birders who celebrated the end of a day to remember.

Jiovani, Jim, Barb, Miriam, Selwyn, Tina, Tania, David, Victoria, Lisa

     Life is always good; sometimes it's perfect!