Birding in Cuba - February, 2023 - Part 1

 09 February, 2023

Waterloo - Pearson International Airport - Veradaro - Havana - Pinar Las Terrazas - Vaquería Santa Rosalia - Viñales

Leader: David M. Gascoigne

Participants: Miriam Bauman, Barb Bowman, Jim Bowman, Lisa Den Besten, Tina Den Besten, Victoria Ho, Selwyn Tomkun

Tour Guide: Tania Piñeiro Cordero

     I had been happy to organize a birding excursion to Cuba for Miriam and me, and six other eager participants, all good friends and great travelling companions. Plans had been made, itineraries established, flights booked; finally departure day arrived.

     Our flight was scheduled to depart at 06h:30 so it was an early start for all of us. It's an hour's drive to the airport in Mississauga, and international flights require that you be at the airport three hours before departure - for what reason I am not sure. But we complied and arranged for an airport transportation service to pick Miriam and me up at 01h:30, followed by the others ten minutes apart. It all worked perfectly and we were delivered safely to the departures level at Terminal 3 in good time.

     We went through the formalities quickly and settled into the boarding lounge for the long wait until we departed. We pulled away from the terminal a little later than scheduled and the aircraft had to be de-iced, but we were soon on our way, and had a smooth flight to Juan Gualberto Gómez Airport in Veradero.

     Upon exiting the terminal we were greeted by Tania and our driver for the entire trip, Jiovani. It was a joy to see Tania again and to make the acquaintance of Jiovani, a driver upon meeting, a friend mere moments later.

     In no time at all we were settled into a spacious mini-bus and en route to Havana, travelling through areas of beautifully forested terrain.

     In Havana we picked up Tania's daughter, Mariana, who would be spending part of the tour with us. What an asset she turned out to be! Everyone fell in love with her immediately and every moment was enlivened by her presence. 

     Mariana has a degree in English and German and is employed in the German Embassy in Havana. At the time of our tour she was enjoying a well-earned vacation and would join us on and off in addition to spending time with her grandparents.

     We began our birding in a venerable coffee plantation, the first in western Cuba in fact. How grand and stately it is.

     It was not long before a Loggerhead Kingbird (Tyrannus caudifasciatus) posed directly in front of us, providing everyone with an enchanting encounter. None of my friends had birded in Cuba before so the excitement began with this species.

     It was getting quite late for lunch and we had been up since not long after midnight, and we were happy to make our way to the Cafetal Buenavista.

    We made up for lost time and missed meals with mango juice, bread, salad, pork, rice and beans, yucca, rice pudding and coffee. Every meal in Cuba was a sumptuous affair and it was a good thing that our days were active! 

     A Red-legged Thrush (Turdus plumbeus) was a welcome visitor.

     With full stomachs and satisfied smiles we began to walk the trails.

     Greater Antillean Grackle (Quiscalus niger) was not hard to find. 

     Nor was Cuban Blackbird (Ptiloxena atroviolacea).

     

     Glancing over at the tables on the patio, it was clear that Yellow-faced Grassquits (Tiaris olivaceus) had a taste for sugar.

     Perch on the lip of the sugar bowl first.

     Then dip right in.

     Ancient walls stood in silent testimonial to history.

     Slaves were housed in abominable conditions. Man's inhumanity is a bottomless well of brutality, devoid of amelioration over the ages.

     A Yellow-headed Warbler (Teretistris fernandinae) is a treasured endemic species, much enjoyed by everyone.

     If I had one wish paramount above other wishes it was to see Stygian Owl (Asio stygius), having failed to find it on two previous attempts.

     Tania had done her homework and had the bird up her sleeve, so to speak. Not one, but two in fact. To say I was elated would be a bit of an understatement. Enhorabuena y muchas gracias, Tania.

     In the picture below, if you focus your best birder's eye, you will see one of the birds near the top of the picture, slightly to the right of centre.

     Here it is brought in closer with the wizardry of contemporary photographic equipment - to say nothing of Miriam's dogged determination to get a decent image.

     A Northern Mockingbird (Mimus polyglottos) seemed pedestrian by comparison.

     Northern Parula (Setophaga americana) is a beautiful warbler, not always easy to find in Ontario, but in Cuba a piece of cake, or as one might say there, "Es pan comido!"

     With a final look at the Stygian Owl we were on our way.

     After driving for a while, heading onwards to Viñales, we stopped at Vaquería Santa Rosalia to search for Cuban Grassquit (Phonipara canora), but without success. There was no reason for angst, however, as we were confident that we would see it later in our journey.

     A Common Gallinule (Gallinula galeata) is always a delight, probing the surface of the water for insect prey.

     Helmeted Guineafowl (Numida meleagris), introduced from Africa as farm animals, have established feral populations and were seen quite frequently.

     We ambled along looking for the grassquit, enjoying the tropical air, glad to be in Cuba.

     Bougainvillea (Nyctaginaceae) beautified the fences, a riot of colour for Canadians having just left winter behind.

     Black-eyed Susan Vine (Thunbergia alata) is not quite so eye-popping, but no less appealing.

     I believe this is the home of an arboreal species of termite (Blattodea).

     Domestic Chickens (Gallus domesticus) were happy to accompany us on our walk.

     We were delighted to encounter Eastern Meadowlark (Sturnella magna hippocrepis).

     Based on genetic data and possibly other characters, this unique subspecies may qualify for full species status.

     Royal Palm (Roystonea regia) is a magnificent tree found throughout the region and its berries are favoured by parrots and other species.

     We pressed on and in short order arrived at our casa particular, Magdiel y Maydalis - home for a couple of nights.

     It was a lovely place to stay; spacious, clean as a whistle with friendly hosts and an ambiance of family unity and joy. The experience of a casa, as contrasted with a resort, is a gulf of planetary dimension. One is the experience of warmth, humanity and hospitality, the other an orgy of excess and imposed presence, of artificiality, perceived superiority and the ugly face of tourism writ large.

      We had been well taken care of by our team of dedicated friends.

Tania, Jiovani, Mariana (Photo by Jim Bowman)

     Dinner was a wonderful affair, enjoyed by all. 

     Our darling, Mariana, even produced a bottle of wine - and it doesn't get any better than that!

All bird species 09 February - Helmeted Guineafowl, Antillean Palm Swift, Cuban Emerald, Smooth-billed Ani, Great Lizard Cuckoo, White-crowned Pigeon, Eurasian Collared Dove, Mourning Dove, Common Gallinule, Laughing Gull, Magnificent Frigatebird, Green Heron, Western Cattle Egret, Snowy Egret, Brown Pelican, Turkey Vulture, Stygian Owl, Cuban Trogon, West Indian Woodpecker, Cuban Green Woodpecker, American Kestrel, Cuban Pewee, Loggerhead Kingbird, La Sagra's Flycatcher, Northern Mockingbird, Red-legged Thrush, House Sparrow, Yellow-headed Warbler, Eastern Meadowlark, Tawny-shouldered Blackbird, Cuban Blackbird, Greater Antillean Grackle, Black-and-white Warbler, American Redstart, Northern Parula, Palm Warbler, Olive-capped Warbler, Yellow-throated Warbler, Black-throated Green Warbler, Red-legged Honeycreeper, Yellow-faced Grassquit, Cuban Bullfinch - 43 species

10 February, 2023 

Magotes dos Hermanas - Río de Maravillas de Viñales - Benito's Farm - Los Jazmenes - San Vicente, Cueva del Indio

     The enchanting landscape of karstic forest (mogote) was spread before us. This unique formation is characterized by mesophite, semi-deciduous forest, with succulent plants, epiphytes and lianas, and an arboreal stratum (palms) reaching 10m high.

     It is stark yet stunning, harsh yet beautiful, pockmarked with caves where the limestone substrate has been eaten away and eroded by rainfall.

     Mexican Prickly Poppy (Argemone mexicana) thrives in poor soil and may be found here. 

     It is poisonous to animals and is seldom eaten. Medicinal benefits are claimed by local people, however, and it has been used in traditional medicines.

     La Sagra's Flycatcher (Myiarchus sagrae) was not a hard bird to find.

     Our target bird for this area, however, was the range-restricted Cuban Solitaire (Myadestes elisabeth) and we were very fortunate to locate it shortly after beginning our search, alerted by its sustained flutelike song.

     More like a flycatcher than a thrush, it was a distinct pleasure to find this species, found only in Cuba and even then with patchy, scattered distribution.

     Karstic forest is obviously very much to its liking.

     Lisa took the time to admire it and ask questions about the manner in which it was formed. The mind of a curious naturalist is ever active.

     As you may see, it is an imposing landscape.

     Bitter Melon (Momordia) found a home there.

     Morning Glory (Convovulaceae) in all its glory (pardon the pun) and various manifestations is ubiquitous throughout the world.

     This local fellow, hard at work, was probably puzzled at the crowd of people arrayed before him with binoculars and cameras, wondering what occupied their time.

     Perhaps he pondered the difference in our lives and the benefits accident of birth can bestow.

      Someone had the idea to use a rock face for educational purposes.

     Given my druthers I'd just as soon they had left the rock the way it was.

     It was time to move on to Río de Maravilla de Viñales, where a White-winged Dove (Zenaida asiatica) kept company with a Yellow-faced Grassquit.

     To our great delight a female Western Spindalis (Spindalis zena) provided the excitement of yet another "lifer" for everyone but Miriam and me.

     A Urania Swallowtail Moth (Urania boisduvalii) was new to all of us.

     It is very fitting that Cuban Trogon (Priotelus temnurus) is the national bird of Cuba, since it proudly wears the colours of the flag.

       We saw Palm Warblers (Setophaga palmarum) several times a day - every day.

     There are birds - and then there are birds. Our first Cuban Tody (Todus multicolor) was exciting for everyone, and this was the species Miriam most hoped to see again.

     Regardless of landscape Turkey Vultures (Cathartes aura) were a constant presence, often in large kettles circling effortlessly on the thermals. I suspect that carrion in the area had caused this couple to descend to the ground.

     This butterfly is a Skipper (Hesperiidae) but I am unable to identify it as to species.

     Leafcutter Ants (Atta) are surely one of Earth's most fascinating organisms and every time I visit the tropics I can barely contain my excitement when I see them. The trails alone of these fungal mutualists are impressive.

     Their division of labour is so precise that there are ants that cut the leaves and ants that carry them back to the underground fungi beds.

     We saw these large structures (termites?) quite often.

     Everyone appreciated another look at a Cuban Trogon and it was not long before we were calling it by its Cuban name, Tocororo. 

     Cattle Egrets (Bubulcus ibis) have conquered the world and are now commonly seen in Cuba.

     True to form we often observed them following cattle, but a horse would do equally well.

     A stream trickled by in tranquil perfection.....

     ..... and tadpoles hoped to evade predators on their way to leaving the water to become amphibians.

     It was always a pleasure to watch La Sagra's Flycatcher sallying forth from a perch to capture passing insects.

     Caesar Weed (Urena lobata) is a particularly beautiful plant to my eye.

     Just before leaving we saw another Cuban Solitaire and considered ourselves lucky to have had such an intimate encounter with this rare species.

     Mariana, with the glee of a young child, was happy to splash around in the water in her white rubber boots.

     Selwyn and Victoria, standing behind her, seem to have been attracted to something in the trees.

     Cuba is famous for its cigars, and we looked forward to a visit to Benito's Farm.

     Benito is a very gregarious fellow, handsome in the way of a Hollywood movie star of the rugged, self-reliant type, like Randolph Scott or Gary Cooper, or other western heros of yore.

     He rolled a mean cigar.

     His face lit up with satisfaction when he lit it.

     No one wants to drink alone and no one wants to smoke alone, so Benito was looking for a pal to share a stogie.

     Miriam is a great believer in the "when in Rome do as the Romans" creed, so what's a girl to do, but light up and keep him company?

Photos by Tania Piñeiro

     Looks to me like she's got it down pat.

     After the cigar-rolling and stogie-puffing interlude we were able to have coffee (with or without rum) and purchase the finest Cuban cigars to take back to Canada - and some did!

     Tania and Mariana looked well satisfied with our visit.

     

     And so was everyone else.

     We moved onto Las Jazmenes to another Buenavista restaurant for lunch. It is aptly named as you may see.

     Not surprisingly a Palm Warbler was there to greet us.

     This orchid is exceptionally beautiful, but I don't know its identity. (Cattleya lueddemanniana, see Marit's comment below).

     American Kestrel (Falco sparverius) is a common resident, in two distinct colour morphs, white and reddish. 

     Found in Cuba, Bahamas, Turks & Caicos, and Jamaica, this reddish variant looks quite exotic to North Americans unfamiliar with this form.

     After a hearty lunch it was time to move on to Finca San Vicente.

     Here is our intrepid group crossing a stream.

     It is an exceptionally beautiful area.

     It was serendipitous that having seen the reddish morph of American Kestrel the "regular" white morph paid us a visit.

     Tropical Milkweed (Asclepias curassavica) bears some resemable to the familar Asclepias tuberosa  we have at home.

     A male Western Spindalis is an impressive bird.

     West Indian Woodpecker (Melanerpes supercilliaris) is a bold, colourful, handsome species.

     Many plants attracted our attention, including Yellow Walking Iris (Trimezia steyermarkii).

     It is hard not to feel some level of proprietary interest in species that breed at home, so it was a pleasure to see a Black-throated Blue Warbler (Setophaga caerulescens), perhaps soon to be headed to Ontario.

     The Spanish name for Cuban Emerald (Riccordia ricordii) is Zunzún, and Selwyn was so taken with it I never heard him use another term. Do you think it might be because it rhymes with his last name, Tomkun?

     Cuban Pewee (Contopus caribaeus) is a sprightly little flycatcher and brought satisfaction every time we saw it.

     These fungi were extremely interesting, but I haven't a clue as to their identity.

     No such problem with a Cuban Green Woodpecker (Xiphidiopicus percussus).

     Who can pronounce the scientific name without stumbling once?

     A Yellow-bellied Sapsucker (Sphyrapicus varius) on a well-worked tree reminded us of home.

     Chinese Hibiscus (Hibiscus rosa-sinensis) is a very attractive plant.

     Star of Bethlehem (Ornithogalum) would seem to have some connection to Christian tradition but I have been unable to find its origins.

     A Loggerhead Kingbird was one of the last birds we saw as we headed back to our bus.

     It had been a great day from start to finish and we looked forward to enjoying another fine dinner.

     Mariana even confided that she had a bottle of wine.

     I love that girl!

All bird species 10 February, 2023 - Antillean Palm Swift, Cuban Emerald, Smooth-billed Ani, Great Lizard Cuckoo, Scaly-naped Pigeon, Mourning Dove, White-winged Dove, Western Cattle Egret, Little Blue Heron, Turkey Vulture, Cuban Trogon, Belted Kingfisher, Cuban Tody, West Indian Woodpecker, Yellow-bellied Sapsucker, Cuban Green Woodpecker, American Kestrel, Merlin, Cuban Pewee, Loggerhead Kingbird, La Sagra's Flycatcher, Cuban Vireo, Northern Mockingbird, Cuban Solitaire, Red-legged Thrush, House Sparrow, Western Spindalis, Yellow-headed Warbler, Tawny-shouldered Blackbird, Cuban Blackbird, Greater Antillean Grackle, Cuban Oriole, Northern Waterthrush, Black-and-White Warbler, Common Yellowthroat, American Redstart, Northern Parula, Magnolia Warbler, Black-throated Blue Warbler, Palm Warbler, Myrtle Warbler, Yellow-throated Warbler, Yellow-faced Grassquit, Cuban Bullfinch. 44 species.