Visit to Prince Edward Island and New Brunswick -Part 8 (Final)

 21 May, 2022

Hole in the Wall - Fish Head Deck - Stanley Beach

     Having tried without success the previous day to visit the Hole in the Wall we returned to give it a second try. No one was at the entrance where we had encountered a custodian the day before, so we drove in.

     A Bald Eagle (Haliaeetus leucocephalus) surveying its terrain was a fine start.

     The signage was a little rustic but it pointed us to the start of the trail, which was all that mattered.

     It was a steep, rough descent, but well worth the effort. We saw and heard many warblers as we made our way down the cliff towards the ocean.

     Through a gap in the trees we spied a Great Black-backed Gull (Larus marinus) perched on a rock.

     And still the trail headed down, with many an obstacle to trip the unwary hiker.

     An American Crow (Corvus brachyrynchos) foraged in the wrack.

     There were signs cautioning people not to stray from the main trail, advising that side trails or perambulations along the cliff edge were dangerous or possibly fatal. We were happy to heed this good advice!

     Finally we arrived at the object of our quest - the Hole in the Wall.

     We thought it quite spectacular and wished only for a brighter day.

     On the way back up the path wood ferns were common.

     I would like to identify it as to species for you, but my level of familiarity with ferns is inadequate to say the least!

     This beautiful blossom is, I believe, a species of serviceberry.

     A companion attraction to the Hole in the Wall is Fish Head Deck and, of course, we struck out for that.

      You might wonder why a deck would be appealing, but in season it is a splendid vantage point from which to observe migrating whales.

     The views are magnificent; again we regretted that we did not have a little better weather to do it justice.

     A Common Loon (Gavia immer) patrolled the water in search of fish.

     From our high perspective American Herring Gulls (Larus smithsonianus) were flying beneath us.

     Every sighting of a Black Guillemot (Cephus grylle) was quite special for us, knowing that it is a species we will never see at home.

     This spruce had a fine crop of cones.

     There are not many places to eat on Grand Manan, but we decided to give a small restaurant close to our B&B a try for lunch.

     I had a bowl of fish chowder, which was not terrible, but nowhere as good as what I had eaten on the ferry. Miriam went for the strangest looking doner you ever saw, but it was quite tasty and she was not disappointed.

     We went to Stanley Beach after lunch, but it was raining heavily with the wind driving into our faces, so we gave up and returned to our B&B where we stayed for the rest of the day.

     I went out to the Independent Store, the local supermarket, to pick up items for dinner. 

     While we ate the local American Red Squirrel (Tamiasciurus hudsonicus) joined us on the other side of the window.....

    ..... and an American Goldfinch (Spinus tristis) patiently waited its turn.

22 May, 2022

Red Point Trail - Stanley Beach - Castalia Marsh Seven Days Work Cliff Nature Preserve

     We awoke to fairly dismal conditions, with thick fog and the air drenched with moisture. Nothing was to be done about it, however, so we set off for the Red Point Trail.

     The weather was not acting as a deterrent to birds, and all around us was the persistent song of warblers and other songbirds.

     The beauty of a spider's web is only enhanced by the mist in the air.

     Water droplets are nature's jewels. 

     A tree could ask for no finer decoration.

     The trail beckoned us, and we set off on our way with a couple of Common Yellowthroats (Geothlypis trichas) accompanying us. I am quite sure they were saying, "You can't see me!"

     It was delightful to be surrounded by bird song and the trail meandered on.

     American Red Squirrel was much easier to see, often giving vent to its displeasure as we interrupted its routine.

     A rabbit of indeterminate identity was concealed in the underbrush.

     At the end of the trail we walked a little farther, finally turning around to retrace our steps to our car.

     On the two occasions we had walked on the Red Point Trail we met a very friendly fellow walking his dog. The dog was always leashed, providing clear evidence that some dog owners at least are capable of interpreting signs. Maybe this is a distinct New Brunswick subspecies, because it seems to be quite a rarity in Ontario.

     Snails (genus Cepaea) were everywhere and it was impossible not to crunch a few underfoot, much as we tried to avoid it.

     Perhaps a passing thrush would locate an easy snack.

     We returned to our B&B and made lunch from whatever odds and ends were in the fridge in readiness for departure the next morning.

     A Song Sparrow (Melopsiza melodia) put in a final appearance.....

      ..... and for the first time a Northern Flicker (Colaptes auratus) probed for food on the lawn.

     Heading out for our final afternoon on Grand Manan, we made our way back to Stanley Beach, renowned for beach glass, and walked along in decidedly better conditions than those experienced the previous day. The reputation for beach glass must have been broadcast far and wide, for not a bit could be found!

     We dipped down into Castalia Marsh, but found little of note, and visibility was yet somewhat compromised as we gazed out to sea.

     We had passed a little gift store several times and finally decided to see what might be on offer. Nothing caused us to up the limit on our credit card, but we bought some little note cards as a gesture of good will, more than from necessity.

     Shortly afterwards we almost did a double take as we saw a sign - "Free Books".

     Obviously this had to be thoroughly explored.

     A very agreeable half hour was spent perusing through the volumes with not another soul to disturb our searching, selecting, and reading snippets to each other.

     I left very happy and have remained so with the stash I brought home with me.

     We had very much enjoyed the Seven Days Work Cliff Trail when we had first explored it and decided to return to do it all again.

     It is quite rugged - both beautiful and challenging - and how could you ask for better than that.

     It is alleged, that the reward for having made it to the end of the track, and down the steep rocky face to the beach, is the pleasure of nesting Peregrine Falcons (Falco peregrinus). No doubt, they are of an ephemeral subspecies for we saw not a bird, nor the semblance of a nest site.

     The wildlife on the beach was as follows.

     Conditions had brightened somewhat and the view was rewarding.

     On the way back up a deer mouse (family Cricetidae) scurried ahead of us, pausing briefly, but not willing to tarry to become better acquainted.

     On both our visits we had noticed a sign leading to a waterfall and decided to follow a stream to it.

     It was a lovely woodland surge of water over a jumble of rocks in the river, but hardly a cataract of distinction.

     It is not about to challenge the supremacy of Niagara any time soon.

     We made our way to the parking area at the start of the trail, relishing a good climb.

     We drove back to our B&B where there were a few crackers, and some cheese in the fridge, which we polished off along with a small glass of wine to drain the bottle, before going out for dinner.

     I ordered fish and chips and Miriam a spicy chicken wrap and both were quite good. I asked for a glass of water, and was told "We don't do glasses of water", so Grand Manan holds the rare distinction of being the only place in the word, as far as I recall, where I could not get a glass of water! Ah, the vagaries of dining at the back of a convenience store!

23 May, 2022

     We caught the 07h:30 ferry to the mainland, having a very good breafast en route and drove off the ship at Blacks Harbour.

     The open highway beckoned to us as we commenced our two-day journey to Ontario, well satisfied with our vacation in Canada's maritime provinces.

     We will be back!