Visit to Prince Edward Island and New Brunswick - Part 6

 19 May, 2022

Swallowtail Lightstation - Hole-in-the-wall - Anchorage Provincial Park - Migratory Bird Sanctuary 

     We set out for the Swallowtail Lightstation, on the way seeing numerous Tree Swallows (Tachycineta bicolor) doing their best to secure food in cool weather conditions unsuitable for a substantial biomass of flying insects.

     The following picture of an American Crow (Corvus brachyrynchos) is not going to take first prize, but it is quite pleasing nonetheless, I feel.

     We arrived at the Swallowtail Lightstation and were instantly impressed by the sheer beauty of the place.

     It is easy to forget that these lonely outposts were a lifeline for mariners of old, instrumental in guiding them to safety as they negotiated treacherous shoals, and literally shining a beacon through the gloom to bring them to safe harbour. Sadly, even then, many ships were wrecked and lives lost. The story of the ocean is one of sorrow and grief.

     This location is owned by the Village of Grand Manan and it is a tribute to their dedicated volunteers that the lighthouse has been maintained so well. These monuments are part of the patrimony of all of Canada and it is a cause for celebration that they have not been lost to "progress."

     The views simply took our breath away and you will forgive me if I show too many pictures.

     A Common Loon (Gavia immer) searched for fish at the foot of the cliffs.

     We saw these enclosures all over Grand Manan and I know they have something to do with the lobster fishery, but I am not sure of their exact function.

     One magnificent view after another greeted us as we made our way around the promontory.

     The fog bell has been accorded a position of honour and neither Miriam nor I could resist striking it with the hammer.

     The sound travelled a great distance and would have no doubt given seafarers a sense that they were not alone on a dark and stormy night, as the waves crashed over the bow of their vessel, inciting a sense of dread in even the most seasoned sailor.

     What an imposing lighthouse this is.

     This red lichen was common around the coast, using rocks as its substrate and forming a very attractive component of the landscape.

     A helicopter pad is a contemporary addition to the lightstation.

     We were permitted entry into the lighthouse and were very happy to be able to examine every nook and cranny. The interpretive boards were so well done, and a wealth of information could be gleaned from them.

     Have I mentioned the world class views?

     In the picture below you can see the boathouse and the light keeper's house.

     Both these structures are in excellent condition, and one of the great pleasures of our visit was to meet Jared and Sophie, an American couple, who had volunteered their time to come to Grand Manan to help with the ongoing restoration of this historic site. In return they were permitted to stay in the house.

     They were personable, outgoing and hard working; Sophie was wielding a paint brush when we said goodbye to her.

     We greatly appreciated the dedication of these young people and their commitment, and their willingness to lend a helping hand on Grand Manan. We hope that one day they will make it to southern Ontario and that we will be able to see them again.

     I will leave you with a couple of parting vistas as we left to return to our car.

     On the way back to our B&B to have lunch we saw two White-tailed Deer (Odocoileus virginianus) in the yard of a house. 

     They were obviously well habituated to people, since they made no move to flee from us, even when Miriam stepped out of the car to take a better picture.

     We thought it all very charming.

     After lunch we made a visit to Anchorage Provincial Park, but it was not yet open for the season. There was a migratory bird sanctuary close by, however, and we headed in that direction.

     For naturalists there is always much to see, and this alder (genus Alnus) attracted our attention.

     We were absolutely delighted to come across a Broad-winged Hawk (Buteo platypterus), not in the best light, but unconcerned at our presence.

     We had expected to see at least a few Great Cormorants (Phalacrocorax carbo) in the maritime provinces, but we only encountered Double-crested Cormorants (Nannopterum auritus).

     Even they were seldom numerous.

     The same could not be said for American Herring Gulls (Larus smithsonianus).

     Song Sparrows (Melospiza melodia) were ubiquitous too.

     We frequently saw Tree Swallows in areas of standing water where they were able to successfully hawk for insect prey.

     In several locations nesting boxes had been provided and many were occupied.

     Quite often we saw benches whimsically constructed in the fashion of a lobster trap.

    In the bird sanctuary there was fresh water on one side and the saline ocean on the other. The Herring Gulls seemed to use the freshwater component exclusively for bathing and large numbers gathered together for a communal bath.

     Great Black-backed Gulls (Larus marinus) were not reluctant to join in.

     The woodland trails were very agreeable.

     A couple of bird hides provided concealment when viewing the wildlife on the wetland.

     A pair of Red-breasted Mergansers (Mergus serrator) remained aloof from the gulls.

     We were very excited to find a Snowy Egret (Egretta thula), a rare bird so far north. It was far off, and the picture does not do the bird justice, but it was the best we could manage.

     For some reason Barn Swallows (Hirundo rustica) and Tree Swallows flocked to this perch and formed an attractive group.

     As we were leaving we spotted a white rabbit, obviously a domesticated animal, and when we called it, it came to us without hesitation, evidently associating people with petting and food.

     I have no idea how it came to this location. We were quite far from the nearest houses, and we shuddered to think that some unscrupulous pet owner had tired of it and released it into the wild. Without the survival skills of a wild rabbit it is facing a short life.

    Back at the B&B the feeders were quite active, with American Goldfinch (Spinus tristis) being the most numerous of the visitors.

     At home in Waterloo we have goldfinches daily, and sometimes twenty or thirty at a time, but Purple Finch (Haemorhous purpureus) is a rare visitor, so it was a special treat to see them join in the activity at the feeders.

Purple Finch ♂

Purple Finch ♀

      We had called in at the grocery store to pick up something for dinner and they had pizzas on sale so that is what we had. A glass of Don David helped it down, and we congratulated ourselves on another fine day on Grand Manan.