Sunday, June 05, 2022

Visit to Prince Edward Island and New Brunswick - Part 3

 13 May, 2022
Baker Shore B&B - French River - Thunder Cove Beach - Cabot Beach Provincial Park - Bonshaw Hills Provincial Park - Victoria - Baker Shore B&B

     Breakfast was its normal splendid affair.


     Apart from the quality of the food, aren't you impressed with the presentation of it all? I know I am.


     Darrell made sure that we went out each morning, well fortified for the day.
     The red soil of Prince Edward Island, emblematic of the province, was never far from view.


     French River is a picturesque area where fishing is the dominant activity, seemingly romantic, quaint to the tourist, but hard, gruelling work I have no doubt.



     It is apparent that some on the Island are doing well!


     The consensus among the people that we talked to was that the lobster fishery is where the money is!
     We passed an area where a large group of Great Blue Herons (Ardea herodias) had congregated in an estuary. Well over twenty birds were present, but quite spread out, and distant.


     A lone bird perched in a tree provided a better picture.


     I doubt that we drove more than fifteen minutes anywhere on Prince Edward Island without evidence of the importance of lobsters.



     It is not unusual for tourists to purchase lobster traps to take home as a souvenir, but I would wager that many languish in a garage or shed when people are at a loss what to do with them. It seemed like a good idea at the time!
     We visited Bonshaw Hills Provincial Park, a truly lovely spot. It provided us with a great walk and a good variety of birds - not all photogenic, however.
     A Dark-eyed Junco (Junco hyemalis) sang not far from where we parked our car.


     The picnic tables were both sturdy and attractive and made us wish almost that we had brought a lunch, except that we were still full to the brim from breakfast at Baker Shore.


     This American Red Squirrel (Tamiasciurus hudsonicus) evidently had a favourite spot to shell and eat nuts. 


     The residue of many feasts was visible.
     There is nothing quite as lovely to my eye, in a wet spot in a woodland, as a blaze of Marsh Marigolds (Caltha palustris), flowers that take me back to the most distant memories of my childhood.


     A pond, or lake, or marsh, or bog or other form of wetland was never far away.


     As birders, our eyes are seldom directed downwards, and many is the time I have tripped on shallow roots.


     The density of Yellow-bellied Sapsuckers (Sphyrapicus varius) on PEI was as great as, or greater than, anywhere else I can remember.


     It is a very attractive bird and we were enchanted each time we saw one.


     Coming upon an American Robin (Turdus migratorius) is like meeting up with an old friend.


     Methuselah's Beard Lichen (Usnea longissima) is ubiquitous. This is an organism I was not formerly familiar with. Several warblers were seen foraging in it, and I would venture that it is also used as nest lining by some species.


       I believe that the following image is of Rough Goose Neck Moss (Rhytidiadelphus triquetrus), although I am getting to the very outer limits of my knowledge when I start dealing with mosses and lichens.


     An American Crow (Corvus brachyrynchos) is much easier to identify!


     Along the way we saw the nest of a Western Osprey (Pandion haliaetus) with a bird either incubating eggs or sheltering young.


     It was infrequently that we saw Ring-billed Gulls (Larus delawarensis).


     What would a day out on PEI be without another lighthouse to close out the afternoon?


     
When we arrived back home at Baker Shore we found that the piece of chocolate cake in the fridge had cloned itself and now there were two.
     We are being spoiled!

14 May, 2022
Baker Shore B&B - Confederation Trail - Rotary Friendship Park - Gardens of Hope - Bubbling Springs Trail - Cove Head Lighthouse - Baker Shore B&B

     The day started, as it did every day at Baker Shore B&B, with a fabulous breakfast. As always Darrell and Lynne outdid themselves. And today you see the stars of the show. (I don't mean me!).



     Look at the breakfast Darrell served us today.


     This was as close to perfection as it gets. Sublimely poached eggs were nestled atop warm biscuits, with a Cordon Bleu grade Hollandaise sauce to accompany them. An extra biscuit was there begging to be eaten with Lynne's extraordinary preserves, and as much hot coffee as we cared to drink.
     There was a side dish of Lynne and Darrell to provide entertaining company and wait on us like visiting royalty. 
     Did I mention that this is an establishment of stratospheric superiority?
     Well fueled for the day we set off to explore a few kilometres of the Confederation Trail, part of the Trans Canada Trail which goes coast to coast. We have walked sections of it in Ontario and British Columbia, and it seemed only fitting to set our feet on it on PEI.



     If I am not mistaken this is a Cinnamon Fern (Osmunda cinnamomea), commonly seen throughout our stay on PEI.


     There were ample wetlands alongside the trail with swallows swooping for insects.



     Savannah Sparrow (Passerculus sandwichensis) was very common.


     A Red-tailed Hawk (Buteo jamaicensis) left its perch high in a tree and flew across the fields.


     After walking a couple of kilometres along the Confederation Trail we retraced our footsteps and decided to visit the Rotary Friendship Park recommended by Lynne.


     It was a very pleasant area, with mixed habitat and standing water.


     At times there seemed to be a Song Sparrow (Melospiza melodia) on every suitable perch.


     In southern Ontario, Mallard (Anas platyrynchos) is far and away the most common duck, but on PEI we saw it infrequently. Here are two males keeping company.


     Japanese Knotweed (Reynoutria japonica) is one of the worst of the multitude of invasive plants that we have introduced, wittingly or unwittingly, into North America.


     It will grow just about anywhere, tolerating a wide range of conditions, including poor soil and drought. Once established it is very difficult to eradicate, and takes over entire plant communities, out-competing native species. I hope that the custodians of this woodland are formulating plans to eliminate this pest.
     Having seen a couple of male Mallards, we were delighted to discover a pair.


     Lynne texted us to suggest that if we were anywhere near New Glasgow, we should consider visiting the Gardens of Hope, a beautiful spot, with enchanting floral displays.


     Designed to provide a cathartic refuge for those suffering from serious illnesses, it is an oasis of calm.


     It seemed to me that it was suffering from serious neglect, but Miriam thought that perhaps they had not yet begun work for the year.


     The tulips were splendid.


     And so were the daffodils.


     A Red-winged Blackbird (Agelaius phoeniceus) would never fail to comfort me.


     These violets were exquisite.


     We saw only two other people at the gardens while we were there, but we hope that the gardens will be able to fulfill their promise of hope.


     Hope, is sometimes all that we have left.


     A Common Grackle (Quiscalus quiscula) is occupied only by the moment, neither hope nor despair being part of its life.


     I wonder how the Common Dandelion (Taraxacum officinale) came to be so universally despised?


     It is, in fact, a beautiful flower and is capable of bringing a smile to my face.
     We decided to pay a return visit to Cavendish Grove, where we found Rick and Marie again. It's a small world when you run into people you know while on vacation!


     Our next destination was the Bubbling Springs Trail in Prince Edward Island National Park, a location recommended by Marie. It turned out to be very birdy, and an enjoyable walk.


     Sometimes, children provide the best art.


     A well-constructed viewing platform enabled great views over the wetland.


     Several Lesser Scaup (Aythya affinis) furnished great entertainment.


     The following sign explains how the trail came by its name.


     It was easy (and fascinating) to witness the water bubbling up, but I am not sure if these pictures really enable you to see it.




     We followed the path.


     White-throated (Zonotrichia albicollis) and White-crowned Sparrows (Zonotrichia leucophrys) were very common, as were several species of warbler, but good pictures were hard to come by.
     Trailing Arbutus (Epigaea repens), a plant that favours moist, sandy habitats and acidic soils was at home on this trail.


     Yellow Birch (Betula alleghaniensis) thrives in the same habitat and was equally prevalent.



     When we left the Bubbling Springs Trail we paid a visit to the Cove Head Lighthouse.


     We were very happy to see that a determined effort is being made to protect the breeding areas of the endangered Piping Plover (Charadrius melodus).


     As we had done a couple of nights earlier, we picked up wraps to take back to Baker Shore and enjoyed them on the front veranda with a glass of wine. We made a couple of decaf coffees to take back to the room where the Spoiler-in-chief, Lynne, had left slices of delicious chocolate chip cake for us.
     Another great day was coming to an end on PEI - but still no hummingbird! 
David M. Gascoigne,
David M. Gascoigne,

I'm a life long birder. My interests are birds, nature, reading, books, outdoors, travel, food and wine.

69 comments:

  1. Hari OM
    This is just fabulous - getting to travel from the comfort of my lounge! Thanks for taking us along, David. Though I always have a grin a the use of the word 'biscuit' where a scone sits! Nothing to deny about the appeal of those breakfasts, though, nor the ambience provided by your congenial hosts. YAM xx

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  2. The red dirt of PEI reminds me of of the red dirt in East Texas where I spent several weeks every summer visiting my aunt and Uncle.

    I don't know why dandelions are so hated. I love them and love to see the yard dotted with them in the spring. And they are so important as an early food source for bees.

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  3. ...such a gorgeous travelogue until you came to the Japanese Knotweed which is an evil pairing with Phragmites!

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  4. What a mouthwatering and wholesome breakfast! You took some beautiful pictures. Until today I still can't catch a proper picture of a squirrel. They are usually too fast. The Ring-billed Gulls look so elegant.

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  5. What a wonderful place to stay with Lynn and Darrel, they are really treasures. You saw so many beautiful birds and landscapes. I would love to see the water bubbling. I love dandelions. My neighbour at the last place I lived wanted to sue me because I didn't remove the dandelions in my garden, but his lawyer told him he would have no success and gave up! Thanks for sharing, BG hugs, Valerie

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  6. Thank you for the lovely photos of the flowers, David. The white Epigaea repens was very beautiful, and I have never seen it before.
    Hugs and kisses, Marit

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  7. Oooh. And ahhh. Thank you.
    This was a wonderful series of excursions. I am very, very happy for you and Miriam and my eyes are only glowing a little bit green.

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  8. It is so interesting to see familiar haunts through another’s eyes. Great post!

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    1. We first got to see so many places through your eyes, Marie. We are already looking forward to next year's visit.

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  9. Your post is very enjoyable to read. The food, scenery, activities, and all look wonderful.

    Now: about dandelions. They have some good characteristics even in lawns, and help aerate and fertilize the soil, though they tend to crowd out other plants. However in technical language: Dandelions "possesses allelopathic properties that can reduce germination and growth of other plant species."

    And: "Bees love dandelions, and they flit from blossom to blossom in large numbers. But dandelions are missing some of the essential amino acids. Research has shown that a diet of pure dandelion pollen will hinder larval development in mason bees, prevent brood production in honey bees, and cause 100% larval rejection in bumble bees."

    best... mae at maefood.blogspot.com

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  10. Hello, David
    What a great trip report, you picked a lovely place for your vacation. The scenery is lovely, beautiful birds. The lighthouses are a favorite of mine. Pretty flowers and the owl statues are cute. Your breakfast looks delicious, a great start to your day. Take care, enjoy your day and the new week ahead.

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  11. Il y'a des déjeuners de roi!
    J'ai une petite chouette en pierre comme celles de la photo.
    Beaucoup de beaux paysages et les maisons colorées sont jolies. Vous avez bien profité de ce séjour. Bonne soirée

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  12. Hello my dear David.
    Well, I've been thinking about it and I don't think I'll be able to go on a bird trip with you ..... There is too much food !!!! Ahahah. Or I'm only doing one meal.
    Still very nice places, the buntings are very common I think?!
    Fabulous squirrel.
    Big kisses to you David.

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    1. Nathalie: If ever you come to Canada, and I have the pleasure of getting to know you, and birding with you, I will adjust to your practices whatever they are. You can count on that. Yesterday, I gave a presentation at the Huron Fringe Birding Festival on the Bruce Peninsula and there were so many colourful warblers you would have been in heaven. Hugs and kisses - David

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  13. What a wonderful trip!....I just want to go back to Canada to experience that B&B!!....beautiful pictures!!....Abrazotes, Marcela

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  14. Wonderful pictures. Thank you for sharing your trip with us.

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  15. French River certainly is picturesque.

    I enjoyed the stunning photos, David.

    Have a great week ahead.

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  16. Glad your visit was full of wonders!

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  17. Marvelous pics! I particularly liked the reflection shot and the squirrel.

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  18. What an amazing place, the scenes, houses, plants, water, birds, everything, a lovely adventure...the meal looks yummy.

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  19. I am impressed that you can eat so much for breakfast It is much different from Danish breakfast but I admit it looks great and I love your excitement.
    The birds and plants are lovely too except for the Japanese Knotweed. We're struggling with this one too.
    Lisbeth

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  20. Thank you for another entertaining and enlightening foray into the scenery and wildlife on PEI. I'd like to make the acquaintance of those breakfasts too.

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  21. Lovely photos, David. I've always wanted to visit Prince Edward Island.Sadly it's now unlikely but I'm getting a taste through your blog.

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  22. Dear David,
    it's not likely that I will visit Canada the coming years, but if I do, I'll know which B&B to go to. And I would have your blogs to know the nice spots to visit.
    I'm very happy for Miriam and you to enjoy your holidays so much.

    Best regards, Corrie

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    1. And, of course, you would have to add southern Ontario to your list of destinations, and then I could show you the area where we live, and entertain you for dinner in my house!

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  23. Beautiful island with a lot to see...and eat ;)
    Gorgeous pictures ! Nature is indeed beautiful...
    Have a nice week !
    Anna

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  24. I have bookmarked this BnB and shared it with friends to see if they'd like to meet up there some time. Do you get a commission? LOL

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  25. Hello David, you asked how we like the table setting and the breakfast you were served by your hosts. It looks fantastic and it made me remind of B&B settings in France. So my compliments to the hosts. Nature is wonderful as you present it. Landscapes amazing and the amount of birds is not bad. Hope you did get to see the Hummingbird in the end.
    Regards,
    Roos

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    1. The birding generally was very good, Roos, but when the trees have leafed out it's often difficult to get pictures.

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  26. If I ever get to PEI/NS, I'm returning to this post to make sure I have all the info necessary to book with Lynne and Darryl! What a great looking, hearty breakfast, bound to keep you going for many hours. Love the colorful buildings and of course all the birds and blooms you have shared. What a fabulous holiday.

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    1. It's a part of Canada that you and Rick would enjoy immensely, Jeanie.

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  27. This is just an incredible post. You take beautiful photos. Reading your post is like taking the trip with you. Thank you so much David.

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  28. I love that sapsucker as well as those photos of you and your hosts. I would enjoy your breakfasts, too. Gigi Hawaii

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  29. What a wonderful place to stay.
    I enjoyed seeing all of your photographs, especially the American Red Squirrel and the Lighthouse.

    All the best Jan

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  30. David, I thorough enjoyed all the photos of the food, the walks, birds, plants and now we will have to definitely plan a future trip to PEI as we are not that far away here in NH. The dandelion is just a misunderstood wildflower in my humble opinion.

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    1. It's true, Beatrice, you are closer than I am. There's one more instalment covering PEI and then it will be on to Grand Manan, NB.

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  31. Hard to pick a favourite between the heron and woodpecker.

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  32. Hello David, I must say, after looking through this post, I am in total admiration. I’m putting Baker Shore B&B on my list of must do. And that is a long way from Seattle. :-) I was lucky enough to spend one day in Charlottetown in the fall of 2019 … it was a port stop on a cruise. I fell in love with PEI. As always, your photos are excellent. I especially appreciated your photo of the Dandelion and comment about it. You are so right, it is beautiful and reminds me of the beauty of nature that we humans so often take for granted. Thank you for your comment on my blog today. The Falcon’s ability to adapt to city life just amazes me. And, yes, I’ve read that one of the greatest dangers to the young is crashing into windows.

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  33. A diary with surprisingly unique, beautiful, interesting elements.

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  34. Breakfasts with a super delicious aspect and beautiful landscapes, birds and flowers.
    All the photos are wonderful, but my favorites were the 4th, French River, with the reflections in the water and the 8th with the solitary bird, which is fantastic.

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  35. Breakfasts with a super delicious aspect and beautiful landscapes, birds and flowers.
    All the photos are wonderful, but my favorites were the 4th, French River, with the reflections in the water and the 8th with the solitary bird, which is fantastic.

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  36. Dearest Phil,
    the French River area with all the colorful fishermen houses reminded me a lot of Iceland... As for the lobster fishery, it will probably continue to make money for a while, maybe even more as the animals become rarer and eventually it will be over... No lobster , no money...
    Luckily, the remains of squirrel feasts are not as much of a problem as the remains of human feasts... Wetlands, bogs - how wonderful that some still exist! They are so important to the world and so little appreciated. We got to know the Methusalem beard lichen in the swamps near New Orleans, they give the impression that the forests and waters there are enchanted (probably voodoo enchanted ;-))
    Gardens of Hope sounds good. Maybe the neglect is part of the concept - you know - along the lines of: a tidy garden is not a nature-friendly garden. And you're right - hope is sometimes all we have left...
    It's great that you have seen so many beautiful birds - but it doesn't surprise me with all the nature! Anyway, you've already made me want to visit the area and the Baker Shore B&B :-DD
    All the best
    Traude
    https://rostrose.blogspot.com/2022/06/mai-ausflug-mit-sigrun-und-alles-finster.html

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    1. My name is David, but thanks for the comment, Traude.

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  37. Glad you had a wonderful visit to PEI, Davd. Good hosts, great food and lots of nature to visit and enjoy. Beautiful photos and narrative as always. Thank you for sharing so we can enjoy your trip too.

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  38. hello David
    I've only just read part two and see that the third part is already ready, and what can I say, it's getting better and better, you wish for a nice holiday like that from the bottom of my heart..
    Greetings Frank

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    1. Maybe one day you will visit us here in Canada, Frank.

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  39. Prince Edward Island is one of the places I definitely want to visit one day (along with Nova Scotia and Newfoundland). Your pictures remind me of Maine especially the lobster! I remember seeing many of those lobster traps, and yes, I did think of taking one home with me to use it as a decorative element in the garden, perhaps let a vine grow through it - but then I didn't. I am surprised that you found Methuselah's Beard Lichen there - it's common here in Northern California, but I had no idea that it can be found so far East and North (compared to CA). The breakfasts you got do look delicious - I'm getting hungry just looking at them. No wonder youw eren't hungry for lunch! Beautiful photos, I enjoyed this post very much.

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    1. All three provinces you mention are gorgeous. You would enjoy a visit!

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  40. Un reportaje maravilloso. Creo que ya no podré visitar la isla. Los desayunos se ven perfectos , me encantan esa pareja de anfitriones. Un abrazo fuerte para Miriam y para ti.

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  41. Ah, me encanta el diente de león. Besos.

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  42. Una excelente visita a ese lugar, los anfitriones fueron muy buenos ¡menudo desayuno! y el reportaje ha sido un placer verlo.
    Ya se nota el buen tiempo y las diferentes aves que encontráis así como las flores.
    Muchos besos.

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  43. I love the way you write, David! With travel being my passion, I'm happy to be going along virtually with you on this lovely vacation!

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  44. Thank you, David, for making our day better.

    This was simply a superb travelogue. The area is incredibly picturesque and your portrayal of it seems "comfortable". It's on our wish list of places to go.

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    1. If you visit PEI, Wally, I have no doubt that you would enjoy it - and the exchange on the dollar is in your favour too!

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  45. I've never seen the flower named Trailing Arbutus, but every time I read about it or see a photo, I smile. 'Trailing Arbutus' was the name of the grandson of housekeeper Alicia Contreras de Ortiz, better-known as Tehuana Mama, in the cartoon known as Gordo. The strip was this midwestern girl's introduction to all things Mexican, even before I'd started school.

    The yellow birch surprised me. That bark is especially pretty. It was fun to see the lobster traps, too. No lobsters here, but the crab traps pile up in the same way.

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  46. I'm in catch-up mode, David, so I'll be brief! It would seem that your vacation was blessed with some accommodating weather, as well as some beautiful places to visit.

    I was amused by the 'faces' I saw on the two houses in the centre of the first photo from French River.

    People here as just as paranoid over dandelions as they are in your neck of the woods. The planet needs more dandelions!

    Best wishes to you and Miriam - - - Richard

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    1. Shame on us! Neither Miriam nor I had noticed them. It now gives us a chuckle too.

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  47. Hi David - me too - am late ... but you've been fortunate in your travels - and I guess are meticulous in your planning. Excellent picture of you re-victualling ... and as always brilliant photos with appropriate commentary - thank you - Hilary

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  48. It's clear Darrell and Lynne take great pride and enjoyment in making their guests feel welcome and well looked after. Their table settings are wonderful and so welcoming.

    The coloured buildings by the water are quite picturesque. I love the American Red Squirrel picture!

    As birders, do you note down your sightings in a personal record, apart from the picture? You said in your recent comment on my blog that you've never kept a journal but I would say your blog is a beautiful journal presentation in itself. So well written with amazing images. A delight to read.

    I wonder if Methuselah's Beard Lichen is a relative of Old Man's Beard (Tillandsia - Usneoides Moss)?

    Spectacular bird pictures as always, David.

    Ah yes, the dreaded introduced plant species. The same thing has happened here too. Lantana Camara is one that springs to mind. It was brought here in the mid-1800s and ended up in our bushlands. While seen as an ornamental plant in America, it is seen as a noxious weed here because it pushes out native species.

    Gardens of Hope is a lovely idea. Daffodils were my favourite flower as a child and I still have a great fondness for them.

    How interesting about the Bubbling Spring. I'm glad they are making an effort to protect wildlife.

    Another enjoyable post. Thank you.

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    1. We have a notebook and keep a record of all our sightings as we go along, including the number of birds we see. I am not sure of the relationship of Methuselah's Lichen to Old Man's Beard, the latter term seemingly used for lichens, mosses and even vines.

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