Costa Rica Final Episode 02 February - 07 February 2019

02 February 2019
Caño Negro - El Coco

     I was awake just as it was starting to get light and was greeted by a very loud chorus of Mantled Howler Monkeys (Alouatta palliata). Since they were about to start their day I would too, and was soon sitting outside waiting for Miriam to join me. The howlers kept howling, the songbirds were chirping, the wood rails were babbling like a group of inebriated chickens, the chachalacas were clucking, the spider monkeys were screaming, and I sat there quiet as a church mouse.
    Miriam came out just as a camera with Franc attached to it arrived and an Olivaceous Piculet (Picumnus olivaceus) landed right in front of us, almost within arm's length and started to drill into a thin branch. This species is known to  search for ants' nests beneath the bark, from which they extract the brood and glean the adults. It was exciting to have it so close.

     It was not time to go to the dining room for breakfast so we walked around the gardens absorbing the awakening Costa Rican day. 
     A couple of Dusky-capped Flycatchers (Myiarchus tuberculifer) entertained us by plying their trade, sallying forth to capture a passing insect, then returning to a perch to eat it.

      If the insect was small it was eaten immediately, if large it was thoroughly bashed around until it was immobile and softened up, and then consumed. 
      Variable Seedeater (Sporophila corvina) is common in appropriate habitat and several were in the area of rough grass between the manicured edge of the garden and the lagoon, where they no doubt found breakfast easy to come by.

     And so did we. We all traipsed into the dining room to enjoy exactly the same breakfast as yesterday. Franc did not want his rice and beans so out of a sense of duty to my Costa Rican hosts I had a double helping of their national dish. Surely this must qualify me for honorary Tico citizenship!
     After breakfast we walked along the edges of the lagoon where the day had come alive and a profusion of birds greeted us.
     Several Red-winged Blackbirds (Agelaius phoeniceus) lent an air of familiarity to the scene before our eyes.

     Least Sandpipers (Calidris minutilla) scurried hither and yon, resembling so many clockwork toys wound up at full spring tension, probing in the mud for tasty invertebrates.

     Northern Jacanas (Jacana spinosa) and Black-necked Stilts (Himantopus mexicanus) foraged together without a hint of a quarrel.

     An adult Bare-throated Tiger Heron (Tigrisoma mexicanum) is a very handsome bird, but the juvenile, quite distinct from the adult, is also stunning in appearance.

     A whistling duck of any kind in Ontario would be a rarity; in Costa Rica Black-bellied Whistling Duck (Dendrocygna autumnalis) is quite common in wetlands of suitable composition.

     For someone not familiar with woodcreepers, for someone who sees them very infrequently, many species are difficult to identify one from the other, especially when not seen in good light. This one will have to remain unnamed.

     Our old friend the Tropical Kingbird (Tyrannus melancholicus) presented no such problems.

     Black Vultures (Coragyps atratus) were so common that I think that if one stood in a fixed position and rotated 360 degrees one would be sure to spot one (or several). Looking all the while like bewigged officials in a courtroom, they are interesting birds, who render much-needed sanitation services.

     We exited the lagoon into the village and walked back to Hotel de Campo from there. One of the first birds we saw was Common Tody Flycatcher (Todirostrum cinereum), a beguiling little bird if ever I saw one.

     A male Passerini's Tanager (Ramphocelus passerinii) has a swagger to match its brilliant colour.

     There was apparently a colony of Montezuma Oropendolas (Psarocolius montezuma) quite close and several birds were flying back and forth. This handsome species does not leave one unmoved!

     The large bulky nest of a Great Kiskadee ( Pitangus sulphuratus) was spotted on a utility pole with the female (presumably) on the nest and the male standing guard close by.

     Social Flycatchers (Myiozetetes similis) were happy to feed along the road verges, and we were equally happy to see them.

     We heard, and then saw, a flock of raucous Red-lored Amazons (Amazona autumnalis) and they landed in the trees right in front of us. They blended in very quickly but a few remained in a position to get a photograph.

     A Tropical Mockingbird (Mimus gilvus) was seen on a wire just before we arrived back at Hotel de Campo, where Carlos had already arrived to collect us for the journey back to El Coco.

     We bade our hosts farewell, having thoroughly enjoyed our stay, and fervently hoping to return one day.

    Carlos took a different route home from that which we had taken coming and we stopped for lunch at Soda Murillo, a wonderful little place, with friendly service and excellent food.

     It was well patronized and we were happy to add our business to the throng of customers stopping to eat and also taking meals away with them.

     Here is Miriam's chicken plate.

     How delicious is that?
     While we were there it would rain in torrents for a few minutes, clear up, and then a few minutes later the downpour would start again.
     A couple of Blue-and-white Swallows (Notiochelidon cyanoleuca) were none the worse for wear. In fact they seemed to welcome the rain and a couple of times spread their wings and shook themselves vigorously. Doubtless a strong rain helps with feather maintenance and assists in the removal of feather mites and other ecto parasites.

     We had our only sighting of Rusty-margined Flycatcher (Myiozetetes cayanensis) at this stop.

     Carlos delivered us all back to our accommodations in El Coco, and we said goodbye to him with a deep sense of appreciation for his yeoman service. He had indeed been a first rate driver and a very agreeable companion.

All species 02 February: Black-bellied Whistling Duck, Grey-headed Chachalaca, Wood Stork, Green Ibis, Bare-throated Tiger Heron, Great Egret, Little Blue Heron, Neotropic Cormorant, Anhinga, Turkey Vulture, Black Vulture, Western Osprey, Roadside Hawk, Grey-necked Wood Rail, Black-necked Stilt, Southern Lapwing, Northern Jacana, Least Sandpiper, Solitary Sandpiper, Lesser Yellowlegs, Red-billed Pigeon, Ruddy Ground Dove, White-winged Dove, Groove-billed Ani, Rufous-tailed Hummingbird, Amazon Kingfisher, Olivaceous Piculet, Lineated Woodpecker, Northern Crested Caracara, White-fronted Amazon, Red-lored Amazon, Common Tody Flycatcher, Rusty-margined Flycatcher, Social Flycatcher, Great Kiskadee, Dusky-capped Flycatcher, Mangrove Swallow, Blue-and-white Swallow, House Wren, Tropical Gnatcatcher, Tropical Mockingbird, Clay-coloured Thrush, House Sparrow, Montezuma Oropendola, Red-winged Blackbird, Nicaraguan Grackle, Great-tailed Grackle, Passerini's Tanager, Blue-grey Tanager, Palm Tanager, Variable Seedeater, Morelet's Seedeater, Bananaquit.

03 February 2019
El Coco

     This was a day to relax and not do a whole lot of anything. Miriam and I went for breakfast at a local restaurant, which was okay but certainly not great, and then to a local market which is held every Sunday. It was quite interesting and Miriam bought a necklace from a very personable young vendor from Argentina, and a sun dress.

     For the rest of the day we relaxed, read a lot, Miriam went in the pool quite a bit, I had a nap - nothing that required exertion!. The temperature, as always, was in the mid thirties.
     Dinner was an excellent affair. Franc barbecued steaks to perfection, made his signature tomato salad and we had fresh, organic broccoli purchased at the market. Dessert was wonderful, cold, sweet watermelon. Francine and Jim left to go back to their apartment; Franc and Carol, and Miriam and I went into town for a gelato.

All species 03 February: Black Vulture, Western Osprey, White-winged Dove, Cinnamon Hummingbird, Hoffman's Woodpecker, Great Kiskadee, Rufous-backed Wren, Great-tailed Grackle.

04 February 2019
El Coco

     Miriam, Carol and Francine decided to stay back for pool exercises while Franc, Jim and I walked along the beach.

     It was pretty busy with people doing everything from jogging to reclining and drinking. It was amazing to me how people are willing to expose their far less than perfect bodies. It is probably controversial to say so, since I know we are all supposed to value our body shapes and types, and that is all well and good, but to flaunt years of fat clinging like slabs of lard, varicose veins and sagging asses, decades of lack of exercise or restraint, fat oozing and jiggling like beached jellyfish, flabby bellies, jelly rolls and ham hocks is hardly appealing. Keep it covered for God's sake! Ticos, in the vast majority, were slim and trim, the tourists blimps, hippopotami  and warthogs - and that is being unkind to the animals! 
     We were able once again to call in the Ferruginous Pygmy Owl ( Glaucidium brasilianum), and were delighted with our success.

    Tropical Kingbirds were not hard to find, and though familiar, ever beautiful.

     On the way back from the beach we saw a Turquoise-browed Motmot (Eumomota superciliosa), gorgeous as always, tropical in its splendour.

     The rest of the day was spent in relaxation, until it was time to go for dinner. We went to Z's, a restaurant on the main street of El Coco, which I am sure is touted as the place to be, but it was really not the place I longed to be.
     What passed as music, often disguised as bursts of jarring crescendo, with excessive throbbing dissonance was at a decibel level that precluded all normal conversation. I was seated next to Jim who has a soft voice, and my hearing is not as good as it once was, so I missed most of what he said, smiled when it seemed I should smile, nodded approvingly when that seemed appropriate, but in reality had no idea of what he was saying to me most of the time.
     We barely made it before happy hour ended and I had a Bloody Mary. I forget what Miriam had. 
     The noise just ratcheted upwards, the cacophony destroyed conversation.
     But the food was excellent. Miriam had chicken, mushrooms, baked potato and a Greek salad. I chose chicken fajitas which were really well done  - and nicely presented.
     The music pulsated, my temples pounded, the ambiance was 21st century tacky. Every patron seemed to be yelling to make themselves heard above the din. But did I mention the food was excellent?
     If you have a choice between going to Z's and having your finger nails pulled choose the latter. Thank goodness the food was excellent.
     I was relieved when we left to walk home!

All species 04 February: Brown Pelican, Magnificent Frigatebird, Black Vulture, Common Black Hawk, Royal Tern, Inca Dove, White-winged Dove, Ferruginous Pygmy Owl, Cinnamon Hummingbird, Rufous-tailed Hummingbird, Black-headed Trogon, Turquoise-browed Motmot, Hoffmann's Woodpecker, White-fronted Amazon, Orange-fronted Parakeet, Great Kiskadee, White-throated Magpie-Jay, Blue-and-white Swallow, Rufous-backed Wren, Clay-coloured Thrush, Great-tailed Grackle.

05 February 2019
El Coco

     Today was a day of total indolence. We barely strayed from home and read and laid around in a 35 degree natural sauna.
     Carol made some excellent hamburgers for dinner and a great salad to accompany them. We ate, chatted, drank a little wine and had watermelon for dessert, sweet, dripping and cold. Wonderful!

All species 05 February: Black Vulture, White-winged Dove, Cinnamon Hummingbird, Hoffmann's Woodpecker, Great Kiskadee, Rufous-backed Wren, Great-tailed Grackle.

06 February 2019
El Coco

     Miriam and I went for an early morning walk on the beach while it was relatively cool and found it very pleasant; there were few people, no dogs, and I don't think we even brushed away a bead of sweat.

     Great-tailed Grackles (Quiscalus mexicanus) were especially visible this morning.

     Thousands upon thousands of tiny fish had been stranded on the beach and Royal Terns (Thalasseus maximus) were gliding just above the sand and picking them off. A few grackles were also taking advantage of an easy meal, but it appeared they were already sated because they were tossing the fish around in a desultory fashion and hardly eating any.
     At one point we had two Turquoise-browed Motmots in front of us at the same time.

     This really is an incredibly spectacular bird.
     We walked back past Jim and Francine's apartment, and they were sitting outside so we stopped for a chat and saw White-throated Magpie Jays (Calocitta formosa) and a Streak-backed Oriole (Icterus pustulatus).
     Continuing on, we walked through the neighbourhood to a coffee shop where we had a coffee and split a bagel with hummus, onion, tomato and capers, for breakfast. The coffee was excellent and the bagel very tasty.

     We did little else the rest of the day but started the initial preparations to leave for home the following morning.

All species 06 February: Brown Pelican, Magnificent Frigatebird, Black Vulture, American Oystercatcher (Francine and Jim), Royal Tern, Inca Dove, White-winged Dove, Groove-billed Ani, Ferruginous Pygmy Owl, Cinnamon Hummingbird, Turquoise-browed Motmot, Black-cheeked Woodpecker, Hoffmann's Woodpecker, Great Kiskadee, Tropical Kingbird, White-throated Magpie-Jay, Grey-breasted Martin, Blue-and-white Swallow, Rufous-backed Wren, Streak-backed Oriole, Great-tailed Grackle.

07 February 2019
El Coco - Liberia - Toronto - Kitchener - Waterloo

     Having enjoyed the relative cool of an early morning walk on the beach yesterday, Miriam and I decided to do it again, for one last time. It was early enough that even the streets on the way down were pretty much deserted.

     This beautiful Streak-backed Oriole was one of the first birds to greet us.

     It seemed to be foraging for insects in the flower in front of it.

     A Hoffmann's Woodpecker (Melanerpes hoffmannii) was also busy feeding.

      Inca Doves (Columbina inca) were often hard to see against the dusty substrate, but they always moved before they were stepped on.

     We had no such difficulty seeing White-winged Doves (Zenaida asiatica), a species that seems to have developed a commensal relationship with humans.

     I am not sure what these berries are, but the tree attracted a wide range of birds, and squirrels too.

     One of the splendid sights as one looks out to sea is a flotilla of Brown Pelicans (Pelecanus occidentalis) coming in to land on the water. It is a spectacle that is only appreciated more by repeated experience. 

     In a small fresh water pond, created by a stream or creek that meanders towards the ocean, we espied a Spotted Sandpiper (Actitis macularius) on a branch......

     .....and a Ringed Kingfisher (Megaceryle torquata) on a wire.

     A Blue-grey Tanager (Thraupis episcopus) was spotted in a nearby tree.

     As we turned for one final look at the ocean we were taken in by its beauty.

     But all is not well in paradise. 

     Garbage is a problem world wide, and I do not wish to unfairly single out Costa Rica, but there seems to be little appetite to tackle the problem. There were many signs exhorting people not to litter, but they seem to be totally ignored. It is a blight everywhere, especially when one gets past the areas that are sanitized (somewhat) for the tourists.

     Even in places where bins are provided they seem to routinely overflow and more is added daily to the pile. The wind of course carries much of this off and the ocean we cherish so much receives another dump of plastic waste. 
     It is a sad testament to humanity that we cannot muster the will to stop this.
     A quick stop at Francine and Jim's place yielded yet another Ferruginous Pygmy Owl. 
     We went to the same coffee shop as yesterday and repeated the same breakfast. It was equally good!
     Back home we finished packing and it was soon time to leave. Jim and Francine came over with our ride to the airport in Liberia, we said our goodbyes to Franc and Carol, and were on our way.
     Our flight was routine until we got close to Toronto when we were told that the ceiling was very low and that we were in a holding pattern over Buffalo, NY, USA, and that we might have to land there. After about twenty minutes the captain announced that clearance into Pearson International had been granted, which everyone was relieved to hear. However, upon getting close to Pearson it was announced that visibility had again taken a turn for the worse, and further delays were expected. Finally we landed. Yippee!
     The process though immigration and customs was straightforward, we retrieved our bags, called for the shuttle to the parking lot, where Jim's car was encased in ice! Finally we were on our way home; the drive was slow, the visibility poor, but we made it, retrieved our car at Jim and Francine's house, chipped off the ice and got onto the expressway.
    We were very happy to walk through our front door! 

All species 07 February: Brown Pelican, Magnificent Frigatebird, Black Vulture, Spotted Sandpiper, Royal Tern, Inca Dove, White-winged Dove, Groove-billed Ani, Ferruginous Pygmy Owl, Cinnamon Hummingbird, Ringed Kingfisher, Hoffmann's Woodpecker, Orange-fronted Parakeet, Great Kiskadee, Tropical Kingbird, White-throated Magpie-Jay, Grey-breasted Martin, Rufous-backed Wren, Clay-coloured Thrush, Streak-backed Oriole, Great-tailed Grackle, Blue-grey Tanager.