Trip Report
Maine...with stops
in New York and New Hampshire, USA
20 – 29 June 2012
David M. Gascoigne and Miriam Bauman
David M. Gascoigne and Miriam Bauman
20
June 2012
Waterloo,
ON – Westfield, MA
We left home at 05:10 for the start of
our journey to take part in a birding trip to Maine under the auspices of the
Dayton, OH Audubon Club. It was billed as The Maine Puffin Trip.
As we pulled away from our driveway we
were serenaded by robins and the sky was starting to get light. It was
necessary for me to go into Toronto to schedule my crews, but with business
taken care of we headed for the border crossing from Queenston, ON to Lewiston,
NY. When we entered the United States it was already 28.5°C at 09:06.
Border traffic was insignificant and
we passed through the checkpoint quickly. Miriam was crocheting and the
immigration agent asked whether she was making birds' nests, which seemed like
a prescient question at the beginning of a birding adventure!
We arrived at the Montezuma National
Wildlife Refuge at 11:30 in 33°C heat. Unlike our visit last fall there was no
standing water at the refuge headquarters and everywhere looked parched. The
main attraction was a colony of Purple Martins breeding in an array of nest
houses and gourds. The chattering of the birds and the presence of numerous
young was quite delightful. Three Spotted Sandpipers picked their way through
the grass where a few wet patches remained. In stark contract to the
substantial concentration of waterfowl throughout the refuge in October, the
lagoons were mostly devoid of birds in the summer. Highlights were a majestic
adult Bald Eagle, an Olive-sided Flycatcher and a Pied-billed Grebe with young.
We ate the sandwiches we had brought from home while meandering along at a slow
birding speed.
At 16:42 we entered Massachusetts and
made our way to the Econo Lodge at Westfield where we had stayed en route to
Cape Cod last October. We arrived there at 17:30 and once we had settled into
the room I went over to Wendy's to pick up two baked potatoes, a Baja chicken
salad, a Chicken Cobb salad and two lemonades which served as dinner.
We read for a while and turned in
before 21:00 in order to be well rested for the journey to Portland, ME the
next day.
All
species 20 June – Canada Goose, Gadwall, Mallard,
Pied-billed Grebe, American Bittern, Great Blue Heron, Western Osprey, Bald
Eagle, Killdeer, Spotted Sandpiper, Mourning Dove, Olive-sided Flycatcher,
Eastern Kingbird, Cedar Waxwing, Tree Swallow, Purple Martin, Northern
Mockingbird, Common Starling, American Robin, American Goldfinch, Common
Yellowthroat, American Yellow Warbler, Red-winged Blackbird, Common Grackle,
Song Sparrow, Savannah Sparrow.
Accomodation:
Econo
Lodge, Westfield, MA.
Price:
$72.03
including tax. Rating: 3.5 stars.
21
June 2012
Westfield,
MA – Coastal New Hampshire – Portland, ME
We were both awake about 05:00 so we
made a coffee in the room, showered and went for breakfast at 06:00. I had
cream cheese on a bagel and Miriam had raisin bran cereal. Returning to our room,
we brushed our teeth and were on the road by 06:35. Even at this early hour it
was already a sizzling 25°C. We encountered rush hour traffic on the
Massachusetts Turnpike and the going was quite slow at times. In any event we
crossed the state line into New Hampshire at 09:08 and stopped at the welcome
centre to pick up a map.
We decided to get off the interstate
highway and chose a route along the coast towards Maine. This turned out to be
a very pleasant route and we made several birding stops along the way.
Our first foray was at Hampton Beach
where the beaches were crowded and the parking at a premium – and expensive! We
drove past the main sun worshipper beaches to
an area of rocky shoreline where we parked at a meter. There were birding
opportunities on both sides of the road, coastal rocks on the one and a
saltwater marsh on the other. We observed several Common Terns, a single
Caspian Tern, seven White-winged Scoters and two Great Northern Loons, among
others.
Driving northwards along the coast
road we were able to pull off at the side
near Bass Beach in North Hampton where the singular pleasure of several
female Common Eiders with young was right before our eyes. Some of the
ducklings were barely more than balls of down and it seemed quite incredible
how proficiently they rode the swell. Some of them scampered up onto a rock,
only to be swept off by the surf, but undeterred they quickly resumed their
position on the rock next to their mother.
Common Eider
Common Eider
At 11:30 we stopped for lunch at Ray's
Seafood Restaurant in Rye. It always dismays us when full service restaurants
use disposable items, but this was the case here. The food was served on paper
plates, the drinks in paper cups. The food, however, was delicious and very
reasonable. Miriam selected a shrimp roll with cocktail sauce, while I had a
haddock sandwich with tartar sauce and cole slaw. We both had iced water with
lemon to drink which was both refreshing and hydrating, for the temperature had
now climbed to 39°C. We left the restaurant
feeling
well satisfied.
We birded for a brief period at Rye
but the stifling heat quickly drove us back to the air conditioned comfort of
the vehicle and we headed for Maine.
We arrived at the Airport Comfort Inn
in South Portland, ME at 14:30. When I went to the desk to check in I gave my
name and indicated that I was a member of the Dayton Audubon trip and I was
immediately handed a room key. There were no registration forms to fill out, in
fact no other formalities at all. Everything had been taken care of and we were
impressed with the efficiency of Jennifer Monahan, our trip leader, and we
hadn't even met her yet!
When we got to the room Miriam made
coffee for us while I did my New Hampshire bird list. We were quite happy to
relax before meeting everyone for a welcome dinner at 19:00.
Having showered and changed we met the
rest of the group – Bob Duchesne, our guide, the aforementioned Jennifer
Monahan, Becky Wright, Brad Bond, Steve and Betty Leve, Dan Mosher, Brian
Sturges, and Skip and Carol Mosmiller. We took dinner at a local restaurant
where the food was simply delicious. I had the “lazy man”lobster, where they
shuck it for you, with rice pilaf and cole slaw. Miriam chose haddock stuffed
with crab and a baked potato. We both had a glass of the house white wine which
was very palatable.
By 21:00 we were back in the room,
looking forward to the start of our birding adventure the following day.
All
species 21 June – Mallard,
Common Eider, White-winged Scoter, Red-breasted Merganser, Great Northern Loon,
Great Egret, Double-crested Cormorant, Western Osprey, Killdeer, Ring-billed
Gull, Great Black-backed Gull, American Herring Gull, Caspian tern, Common
Tern, Northern Flicker, American Crow, Common Starling, House Sparrow,
Red-winged Blackbird, Common Grackle, Song Sparrow.
Accommodation:
The
Airport Comfort Inn, South Portland, ME.
Rating: 4 stars.
Bumper
Stickers
We always pay attention to bumper
stickers and are sometimes horrified by what we read. Here are a few of the
more distressing one we saw on this day.
“If
you voted for Obama last time to prove you're not racist, vote for anyone else
this time to prove you're not stupid.”
“Gun
control means using both hands.”
“Buy
a gun – piss off a liberal.”
“America's
Enemy No. 1 – a liberal.”
Hmmm.........
22
June 2012
Portland
- Stratton
We awoke early and
at 05:15 we had a cup of tea in bed. Breakfast was scheduled for 07:00 and we
arrived a little ahead of that. The
breakfast room was quite chaotic due to the sheer volume of people all trying
to eat at the same time, but we waited a while and got a table. The
complimentary breakfast was quite extensive and featured both hot and cold
items. Miriam had orange juice and coffee, yoghurt, an orange and a small
muffin. I had coffee, a bagel with cream cheese, a sausage patty and a boiled
egg.
We returned to our room to collect our
bags and birded outside on the patio while Bob loaded the van. It was an
intricate operation given the number of items, but he completed it as though
putting together a life size jig saw puzzle. It's amazing what will fit under a
seat! There were still several bags on the back seat, however, but Dan wedged
himself in and took that position for most of the trip.
In high spirits we headed out for
Scarborough Marsh with expectations of lifers for everyone.
Scarborough
Marsh 08:15 – 09:45
This vast marsh (3,100 acres) is the
Pine Tree State's largest marine reserve and supports a great variety of life.
Even the more common species of birds
such as Willet and Glossy Ibis were exciting for us since we see them
infrequently at home.
Both
species make the rare bird alerts when they show up from time to time in
southern Ontario. In this section of the marsh our target bird was Nelson's
Sparrow, a lifer for Miriam and many others in the group. We were not
disappointed. Bob located a single bird and we all had ample opportunity to see
the bird very well.
Our walk along a well-travelled path
was very enjoyable under bright sky with myriad birds all around.
Pine
Point 09:55 – 10:15
This stop yielded
several Common Eiders, a lifer for many. Before the trip was over we would see
hundreds of them. American Black Duck was quite common and a Great Black-backed
Gull alongside a Herring Gull revealed its great size; in fact it is the
largest gull in the world.
Scarborough
Beach 10:25 – 11:25
It was a very
pleasant stroll between between beachfront properties onto the wide sandy beach
where many people were enjoying life at
the ocean in different ways.
We moved along to a sort of breakwater
where we had the unbridled delight of two Red-throated Loons, almost in full
breeding plumage, and two Roseate Terns in front of us, while behind us a
Piping Plover scampered to and fro, at times going right to the water's edge.
We saw our only Little Blue Heron of the trip at this location.
Piping Plover
Piping Plover
Scarborough
Marsh 11:30 – 11:50
Bob obviously knows
this marsh like the back of his hand and having located Nelson's Sparrow
earlier he brought us here to search for Saltmarsh Sparrow. It didn't take long!
Soon we had four of them flying back and forth and perched atop marsh
vegetation where everyone was able to see them well. Three species of swallow cruised through the
air, snapping up insects and a kingfisher was perched on a snag in the
distance.
It was lunch time, and on Bob's
recommendation, we headed for the Lobster Shack, with tables overlooking the
ocean. It was a busy spot with long lineups but we finally got our food and
settled in to enjoy it at a fabulous location. Miriam and I both had what was
termed a clam cake boat, which came with french fries and cole slaw. The
“cakes” were like crispy wafers with no identifiable taste, but the weather and
the marvellous ocean side setting more than compensated for any lack of appeal
to the food. Miriam had pink lemonade and I enjoyed an iced tea.
By 13:15 we were back in the van and
heading for the western mountains.
Lake
Messalonskee 14:50 – 15:05
We made a brief stop here to get Black
Tern and saw three of them without difficulty. An American Bittern was fully
visible and a Great Northern Loon had a chick with it. A male Wood Duck evinced
the kind of response that normally accompanies a sighting of this truly
magnificent bird.
We had intermittent showers soon after
we were back in the van, but it didn't delay our progress, At 16:00 we stopped
at a gas station near to Gifford's Ice Cream emporium, and several people
patronized it after Bob told them it was the best ice cream in the state,
having won many awards. By now the sun was up again and it was very warm so no
doubt the ice cream was especially welcome.
On the road again for the final push to our
destination for the night, the Spillover Motel in Stratton, where we arrived at
17:15. This was a very pleasant hostelry and the room was spacious and well
appointed. We were quite happy there.
We had just settled into our room when
Betty knocked on our door to announce that she had found a Luna Moth and
inquired whether we would like to see it. How thoughtful of her and what a
magnificent specimen it was. I had never seen one before and was so happy to
have the chance.
Luna Moth
We all met at 18:15 to go to the White
Wolf Restaurant for a delicious dinner. Miriam chose haddock stuffed with
lobster, accompanied by a baked potato and a tasty cabbage salad. I enjoyed the
fish fry which comprised haddock and clams with french fries and cole slaw. A
glass of Sauvignon Blanc rounded off everything nicely.
Luna Moth
We returned to the motel at 20:00h
where a great, albeit somewhat short, sleep awaited us.
All
species 22 June – Canada Goose, Wood Duck, American Black
Duck, Common Eider, Black Scoter, Red-throated Loon, Great Northern Loon,
Pied-billed Grebe, Glossy Ibis, American Bittern, Great Blue Heron, Great
Egret, Little Blue Heron, Snowy Egret, Double-crested Cormorant, Turkey
Vulture, Western Osprey, Killdeer, Willet, Great Black-backed Gull, American
Herring Gull, Roseate Tern, Common Tern, Black Tern, Rock Dove, Mourning Dove,
Belted Kingfisher, Hairy Woodpecker, Eastern Phoebe, Eastern Kingbird, Great
Crested Flycatcher, Blue Jay, American Crow, Northern Raven, Cedar Waxwing,
Black-capped Chickadee, Tree Swallow, Purple Martin, Northern Rough-winged
Swallow, Barn Swallow, American Cliff Swallow, Marsh Wren, Grey Catbird,
Northern Mockingbird, Common Starling, American Robin, House Sparrow, American
Goldfinch, Common Yellowthroat, American Yellow Warbler, Brown-headed Cowbird,
Red-winged Blackbird, Common Grackle, Bobolink, Song Sparrow, Savannah Sparow,
Nelson's Sparrow, Saltmarsh Sparrow, Northern Cardinal.
Accommodation:
Spillover
Motel, Stratton, ME
Rating:
4
stars.
23
June 2012
Stratton
– Millinocket
We were up and about by 04:00 in order
to be on site for the Bicknell's Thrush somewhere close to daybreak. Coffee and
bagels had been prepared for us in a downstairs kitchen, but Miriam and I both
just had coffee before leaving at 05:00. Steve and Betty decided to stay behind
and get a little extra sleep. It was a cool, pleasant morning and the rain that
Bob had seen on the radar passed south of us.
Black
Knubble Mountain 05:30 – 09:16
We headed up a
logging road as far as we could drive in the van, then ascended a skidder trail
to areas where Bob had previously sighted Bicknell's Thrush.
On the way we were treated to the
grand experience of seeing many warbler species on their breeding territories,
a much different encounter from that had at migratory hot spots such as Point
Pelee or Magee Marsh where we see concentrations of warblers in spring. The most common species was Blackpoll Warbler
and it was rarely that we did not have at least one in view and it seemed they
were never out of earshot. There were also breeding Mourning Warblers, American
Redstarts and the sweet song of the White-throated Sparrow pervaded the air. A
Boreal Chickadee (a lifer for many) was seen carrying food. It was a unique
privilege to immerse oneself in the boreal forest so essential to the survival
of many neotropical migrants.
Bob Duchesne
Bob Duchesne
The Bicknell's Thrush, however, proved elusive. We climbed higher...and higher...and higher! I think that Bob was about to admit defeat when Jennifer spotted the bird perched atop a small bush. Everyone saw it and Dan managed to take a good photograph. We were all truly elated to see one of the rarest and most difficult birds to see in all of North America, and a species that is declining mainly due to loss of habitat in its wintering range on the island of Hispaniola. For the rest of the trip we referred to the bird as Monahan's Thrush!
The loud, persistent song of the
Winter Wren rang out in the morning air – an amazingly robust and far reaching
sound for so small a bird. I was charmed by singing Fox Sparrows whose
repertoire I could not recall having heard before.
We were back at the motel by 09:30
where we breakfasted on coffee and bagels with cream cheese. We were able to
take it outside and sit at a picnic table in the early morning sun. A couple of
Eastern Phoebes sallied forth from their perches to snag passing insects. I
guess we had breakfast together.
Bob loaded up the van and we set off
for the Orono Bog. On the way, we stopped at a grocery store to pick up items
for lunch. Miriam chose a chicken wrap, I had sushi and we both selected a
banana and an apricot. Miriam also
picked up a bottle of iced green tea. We ate at a picnic table in the Bangor
City Forest – quite lovely!
Orono
Bog 13:55 – 15:30
What a fabulous
place! Without a doubt this is the finest, most extensive, pristine bog that I
have ever seen. Sheep laurel dotted the landscape, there were bog orchards and
pitcher plants, with tussock cotton grass and many other interesting and
beautiful plants I could not identify. The water was the colour of tea, no
doubt a result of the underlying peat.
Pitcher Plant
As for bird life it was magnificent. In rapid order we saw the following wood warblers: Black-throated Green, Magnolia, Myrtle, Canada, Palm and Common Yellowthroat. Lincoln's Sparrow was common and easily seen. One was carrying food. The fact that all these birds were on their breeding territories added great significance to the sightings. Once again, White-throated Sparrow was omnipresent and vocal, and despite what our American friends might think we know it was singing “Sweet Canada, Canada, Canada!”
Pitcher Plant
As for bird life it was magnificent. In rapid order we saw the following wood warblers: Black-throated Green, Magnolia, Myrtle, Canada, Palm and Common Yellowthroat. Lincoln's Sparrow was common and easily seen. One was carrying food. The fact that all these birds were on their breeding territories added great significance to the sightings. Once again, White-throated Sparrow was omnipresent and vocal, and despite what our American friends might think we know it was singing “Sweet Canada, Canada, Canada!”
To say that I was enthralled by this
place would be the understatement of the day.
We boarded the van a little after
15:30 and drove non-stop, other than to refuel, to the Big Moose Inn, where we
arrived at just past 17:00. This place is quite charming in many respects, but
our room was tiny to say the least and the bathrooms were shared. This
presented no problem, except for the fact that there was nowhere to set
anything down other than on the toilet seat.
Miriam showered before dinner and we
met in the dining room at 18:30. It was 20:00 before we were served any food!
Miriam had lemon roasted duck with a salad of cucumber, tomatoes, olives,
onion, mozzarella cheese and Italian bread. I chose osso bucco and a house
salad with blue cheese dressing. I had a couple of glasses of merlot, but
Miriam was content with iced tea. For dessert we both enjoyed white chocolate crême brulée.
Our original plan had been to have a
night drive to look for moose but we called it off due to heavy rain. We
returned to our room a little after 21:00 and slept fitfully on a bed that was
comfortable but pretty narrow for two people.
All
species 23 June – Hairy Woodpecker, Eastern Phoebe,
Yellow-bellied Flycatcher, Grey Jay, Blue Jay, American Crow, Northern Raven,
Boreal Chickadee, Sand Martin, Ruby-crowned Kinglet, Winter Wren, Red-breasted
Nuthatch, Brown Creeper, Grey Catbird, Northern Mockingbird, Brown Thrasher,
Bicknell's Thrush, Swainson's Thrush, Hermit Thrush, American Robin, Pine
Siskin, Two-barred Crossbill, Nashville Warbler, Mourning Warbler, Common
Yellowthroat, American Redstart, Magnolia Warbler, Blackburnian Warbler,
American Yellow Warbler, Chestnut-sided Warbler, Blackpoll Warbler,
Black-throated Blue Warbler, Palm Warbler, Myrtle Warbler, Black-throated Green
Warbler, Canada Warbler, Fox Sparrow, Lincoln's Sparrow, White-throated
Sparrow, Dark-eyed Junco, Chipping Sparrow.
Accommodation:
Big
Moose Inn. Rating: 3.5 stars.
24
June 2012
Baxter
State Park 06:00 – 16:45
It rained heavily all night and
between that and the narrow bed in a hot room sleep did not come easily.
We went down for breakfast at 05:00
where a variety of items were set out and blueberry pancakes were being
prepared on a griddle. Miriam had pancakes and a very juicy orange. I chose a
bowl of cereal and we both had coffee.
In preparation for a whole day to be
spent in Baxter State Park the lodge provided a boxed lunch. The eminently
sensible arrangement was that all the items offered were laid out for each
individual to choose according to his/her preferences. The selection was then
placed in a bag on which you wrote your name. This totally eliminated the
wasted food normally contained in a boxed lunch. I think that Miriam and I
pretty much chose the same items, namely, a delicious chicken salad sandwich
made with dried cranberries, grapes and walnuts, a little bag of mini carrots,
sun chips, grapes, a banana, water and a V-8 type vegetable juice for me.
We were on the road to Baxter S.P. At
05:45 under light rain.
We stopped for a male Spruce Grouse
promenading at the side of the road, a life bird for many. It was still
raining, and the hordes of mosquitoes and black flies were truly bothersome,
but we birded along the road regardless. Poor Jennifer seemed to be a magnet
for the biting insects and even though we all applied insect repellent if there
was even a square millimetre of skin left unprotected they seemed to find it.
Before the trip was over Jennifer had
some serious welts, but we never heard her complain even for a minute. Miriam
Ever since Harvey Mudd and I got into
a limerick writing contest in Bhutan, I have taken to writing limericks or
amateurish poems of no literary merit, to entertain everyone on long rides, or
simply to lighten up the moment. There were a couple of such offerings on this
trip, and since Jennifer requested that I include them in this report, the
first one follows.
Oh dear Three-toed Woodpecker
Where did you go?
I'm Bob Duchesne
And I'd like to know
I saw you quite often
So I know you are there;
I beg and I plead
That you'll start to play fair.
From miles and kilometres
These people did travel,
The mystery of Three-toed
They'd like to unravel.
From Ontario and Maryland,
Idaho and beyond,
For a brief look at you -
Of that they'd be fond.
I'm starting to worry,
Beginning to perspire.
From my career as a guide
I'll have to retire.
It goes without saying that Bob took
this in the good-natured, jocular spirit in which it was intended.
Our walk to the road had taken us
through a campground where there were feeders
patronized
by Evening Grosbeaks and Pine Siskins.
Around noon we all clambered back into
the van to drive to a picnic area for lunch. Thankfully the rain had eased
somewhat and the pestilence of insects was not as bad as it had been all
morning.
The afternoon was spent driving along
a glacial esker and stopping at various points to bird. We spotted two adult
Ruffed Grouse, one of which was shepherding her young to the safety of the
forest. A sighting of Common Goldeneye with young was my first ever of this
species in its breeding range.
Upon arrival back at the lodge a Pine
Warbler perched in the open and sang for us.
Dinner was at 18:15 and we were the
only guests in the dining room. The meal was truly splendid. It was a fixed
menu so that everyone had the same food. To start we were served a large, puffy
cinnamon bun, which seems like an odd choice, but it was enjoyed by everyone.
This was followed by tomato hamburger soup, hot and tasty; I don't believe
there was anything left in any of the bowls. Next we received a tomato and
cucumber salad topped with a creamy dressing. The main course was grilled
salmon with a blueberry/strawberry chutney, served over a vegetable risotto,
accompanied by green beans. There were several desserts on offer and Miriam and
I both had chocolate “moose.” Everyone had iced water to drink and Miriam also
had a decaf coffee.
Afterwards we all (except Miriam who
stayed behind) went off to look for moose. After a successful quest we returned
to the lodge. Miriam was already in bed when I got to the room, so I crawled in
beside her and we both had a good night's sleep.
All
species 24 June – Ruffed Grouse, Spruce Grouse, Wood Duck,
American Black Duck, Ring-necked Duck,
Common Goldeneye, Common Merganser, Great Northern Loon, American
Bittern, Turkey Vulture, Broad-winged Hawk, American Kestrel, Spotted
Sandpiper, American Herring Gull, Chimney Swift, Ruby-throated Hummingbird,
Belted Kingfisher, Yellow-bellied Sapsucker, Northern Flicker, Pileated
Woodpecker, Yellow-bellied Flycatcher, Alder Flycatcher, Least Flycatcher,
Blue-headed Vireo, Philadelphia Vireo, Grey Jay, Blue Jay, American Crow,
Boreal Chickadee, Barn Swallow, American Cliff Swallow, Golden-crowned Kinglet,
Ruby-crowned Kinglet, Red-breasted Nuthatch, Hermit Thrush, American Robin,
Pine Siskin, Purple Finch, Evening Grosbeak, Common Yellowthroat, American
Redstart, Bay-breasted Warbler, Blackpoll Warbler, Palm Warbler, Pine Warbler,
Canada Warbler, Fox Sparrow, Lincoln's Sparrow, White-throated Sparrow,
Dark-eyed Junco, Chipping Sparrow, Rose-breasted Grosbeak.
25
June 2012
Big
Moose Inn – Machias
We were in the dining room for
breakfast
by
05:00. French toast made from yesterday's leftover cinnamon buns was being
prepared on the grill. Never a big fan of this item, I passed and had a bowl of
cereal, a fried egg on a muffin and a banana. Miriam, however, had the French
toast and an orange. We both had coffee, of course.
We assembled our luggage downstairs
for loading into the van later. Bob
announced that he had a Yellow-billed Cuckoo calling. Soon we all had it in
view for excellent looks.
Lunch was selected in the same fashion
as yesterday. The sandwich was Genoa salami on a bun, with cheese, lettuce,
tomatoes and other items. Miriam added sun chips, mandarin oranges and water; I
picked apple sauce and a piece of fruit although I can't remember what.
Before heading off to renew the
woodpecker quest Bob drove by the lakes we had visited the night before to
search for moose. We had good luck, so everyone had at least one moose sighting
during the trip.
Baxter
State Park 07:22 – 12:15
We returned to the
same area as yesterday to try once again for the woodpeckers. It was still
raining! There were still swarms of biting insects! Alas, no woodpeckers.
Actually, this morning turned out to
be especially frustrating for Bob. We were in an area where he had seen both
species in the recent past. Upon returning to the van to move it farther along
the road an American Three-toed Woodpecker flew in front of him. He returned to
get us all but we were unable to locate the woodpecker again despite a
concerted effort from everyone.
We had some wonderful species
including Grey Jay, Purple Finch, Evening Grosbeak and Spruce Grouse.
Black-backed and American Three-toed Woodpeckers would not be on our lists for
this trip, however.
Lunch was taken at 11:45 and we moved
on around 12:15. We returned to the Big Moose Inn to load up our luggage and
bid farewell to Lori and her staff. We had all enjoyed staying there.
Burn
Road in Topsfield 15:45 – 16:40
Dare I say that we
searched again for the two boreal woodpeckers? As already noted we had no
success with these species and the highlight of this foray was a very
cooperative Olive-sided Flycatcher perched atop a snag.
We motored on towards Machias, at
times skirting the border with New Brunswick. We arrived late at our motel, The
Machias Motor Inn, so we checked into a very acceptable room and went directly
to adjacent Helen's Restaurant for dinner. Miriam had a salad with cream cheese
dressing and the combination plate of haddock and shrimp. The meal was
delicious other than for her baked potato which was barely warm and
undercooked. I had a cup of excellent fish soup and the combination plate of
scallops and haddock with eel grass. The food was very enjoyable indeed.
Bob had been keeping an eye on the
weather radar and was having doubts about whether we would be making our trip
to Machias Seal Island the following day. He called the captain of the boat and
received confirmation that the trip had been cancelled due to bad weather
conditions. Naturally, we were all disappointed, but Bob said that we could try
again the next day.
We returned to our room at 21:00,
showered and were soon in a very comfortable bed. I think that we were both
asleep in minutes.
All
species 25 June – Spruce Grouse, American Black Duck,
Ring-billed Gull, American Herring Gull, Yellow-billed Cuckoo, Northern
Flicker, Olive-sided Flycatcher, Blue-headed Vireo, Grey Jay, Blue Jay,
American Crow, Barn Swallow, American Cliff Swallow, Grey Catbird, Hermit
Thrush, American Robin, Pine Siskin, Purple Finch, Evening Grosbeak, Common
Yellowthroat, Magnolia Warbler, Palm Warbler, Myrtle Warbler, Common Grackle,
White-throated Sparrow, Chipping Sparrow.
Accommodation:
Machias
Motor Inn Rating: 4 stars.
26
June 2012
Machias
– Quoddy Head Lighthouse – Roque Bluffs – Addison Marsh – Columbia Blueberry
Barrens – Machias
This was an
improvisational day. Bob had to come up with locations to fill the void left by
the cancelled excursion to Machias Seal Island. This he did very well!
We all met for breakfast at Helen's
Restaurant where Miriam had a huge slice of ham with an egg and toast. I opted
for a large bowl of oatmeal with cranberries. Lots of coffee was consumed and
we left the restaurant with a full quotient of caffeine.
The rain was heavy and we returned to
our room to await news of the alternate plans for the day. By 08:45 we were all
ensconced in the van and took off for new adventures. We passed a small lake
containing a Black Duck with young.
Quoddy
Head Lighthouse
It was wet and
windy so we did not tarry long here, at the easternmost point in the United
States. We did, however, see our first Black Guillemot, a lifer for Miriam, as
well as two Razorbills and a Common Eider with seven youngsters.
Boots
Head
My notes are sparse
at this stop and I cannot say much other than that we walked on a boardwalk
through a bog which, though quite lovely, did not rival the magnificent unit at
Orono. For some reason I did not record the bird species here.
We drove back to Machias for a quick
stop at the motel and then to Helen's for lunch. It took an incredibly long
time to get our food, but it was well worth the wait. Miriam and I both had
lobster rolls, and I also started with a very tasty cup of fish soup. The
lobster rolls were simply fabulous and loaded with lobster. Unlike our
experience in Cape Cod mayonnaise was used judiciously and did not overwhelm
the lobster. These were far and away the best lobster rolls either Miriam or I
had ever tasted.
Maine
lobster rolls have Cape Cod lobster rolls beaten hands down.
At 14:00 Bob kindly drove me to the
post office so that I could buy stamps for the postcards we had obtained
earlier.
At 14:15 we were on the road again,
driving down the coast in somewhat improved conditions. The rain had stopped
and the fog had lifted, giving way to an overcast, but dry day.
Roque
Bluffs 14:35 – 15:40
Coastal areas
always hold the potential for good birding and while we did not see anything
out of the ordinary at this stop there was a nice variety of species. The
highlight for both Miriam and me was a small flock of Golden-crowned Kinglets
feeding low in a bush which we approached closely. Every detail of their
plumage was on display for all to see.
Addison
Marsh 16:15 – 16:25
A short stop at
this marsh yielded both Greater and Lesser Yellowlegs.
Columbia
Blueberry Barrens
Our route took us
along the site of an ancient sea created following the retreat of the glaciers
of the last Ice Age. Glacial erratics were strewn everywhere and a substantial
esker was also a feature of the landscape. The impoverished soil is ideal for
growing blueberries in a commercial fashion.
Interesting birds were a couple of
Vesper Sparrows both posing and singing for everyone, a Brown Thrasher, a
couple of Northern Ravens and a Wild Turkey with poults. The ravens were doing
their best to separate one of the poults from the rest of the brood and the
adult was putting up a vigorous defence. A Northern Harrier quartered the
barrens in typical harrier fashion.
We returned to the motel at 18:00 and
went for dinner at Helen's Restaurant at 18:30.
We
both ordered haddock stuffed with crab. Miriam added brown rice and broccoli, I
had cole slaw and a baked potato. The rice was cold unfortunately and the baked
potato barely warm and only partially cooked. The crab-stuffed haddock,
however, was simply superb. Jennifer ordered wine for the table and dinner
turned into a bit of a farewell meal.
Helen's restaurant is renowned for
blueberry pie and Jennifer had ordered two pies for everyone to share. It
absolutely lived up to the advance billing. Without a doubt it was the best
blueberry pie I had ever tasted. There was even some left for certain people to
have a slice for breakfast!
We were back in our room by 20:30,
showered and turned in for the night.
All
species 26 June – Ruffed Grouse, American Black Duck, Common
Eider, Double-crested Cormorant, Northern Harrier, American Kestrel, Greater
Yellowlegs, Lesser Yellowlegs, Laughing Gull, Ring-billed Gull, Great
Black-backed Gull, Razorbill, Black Guillemot, Northern Flicker, American Crow,
Northern Raven, Tree Swallow, Golden-crowned Kinglet, Red-breasted Nuthatch,
Brown Thrasher, Common Starling, Veery, American Robin, Myrtle Warbler, Common
Grackle, Savannah Sparrow, Vesper Sparrow.
27
June 2012
Machias
– Bar Harbor – Acadian National Park – New Harbor – South Portland
Jennifer and Bob
had arranged a trip out of Bar Harbor in order for us to see the puffins so we
needed to be up early and had set the alarm for 04:00. The bags were stowed in
the van and we were on our way just after 05:00.
Our first stop was at a Dunkin'
Donuts to pick up breakfast. Miriam had
a toasted cinnamon raisin bagel with cream cheese and a coffee. I chose tuna
salad on a plain bagel and a coffee. Seems more like a lunchtime sandwich; it
was in fact quite good.
American Herring Gull
Puffin Trip from Bar Harbor 08:30 – 09:45
American Herring Gull
Puffin Trip from Bar Harbor 08:30 – 09:45
We arrived in Bar Harbor early and had
time to look around a little. I found it an attractive town based on what I
saw. We secured our tickets and left the harbour at 08:30 after several
messages about potential bad weather. Passengers were actually advised to leave
the ship and take a later tour if they had any concerns about their ability to
withstand high seas.
After about a half hour, perhaps a
little more, under sea conditions that didn't seem particularly rough to me the
captain announced that he was heading back to port due to the heavy swells
which would only get worse as we moved farther into open ocean.
It was a great disappointment, but we
did see a Bald Eagle on a rock and Miriam netted her lifer Northern Gannet.
A measure of despair was beginning to
take hold. By now, we all thought that we were going to return home without
seeing the signature bird of the trip. But Bob said we had one more chance. We
could journey down to New Harbor and take the puffin trip out to Little Egg
Rock. It would mean getting back to the Comfort Inn in South Portland late, but
everyone instantly agreed that we should give it a try.
Acadia
National Park 10:15 – 11:15
We now had time to visit Acadia
National
Park
and everyone was pleased that this opportunity had opened up to us. We enjoyed
a pleasant walk and saw our first Black-and-White Warbler of the trip. We also
heard Ovenbird but I don't think anyone saw it.
We moved on and at 12:15 stopped at a
Subway Sandwich Shop to get lunch. Miriam had a BLT with avocado and I had the
veggie delight, which we shared, so we each had half of each sandwich. We
actually ate lunch at an area with picnic tables by the water, a pleasant
location indeed. With everyone's appetite sated we reboarded the van at 13:20 to head south to New Harbor. It was very grey and overcast with light showers as
we drove on.
It was this leg of the journey that
led me to create my second bit of doggerel which is reproduced herewith.
Thanks be to Bob
Who will not give up.
A puffin he'll find
Before dinner we'll sup.
We drive down the highway
All filled with good cheer
And hope and desire
For an alcid so dear.
Its bill will amaze us,
Its antics will charm.
The search has been lengthy
But it's done us no harm.
With Maine we're entranced,
In fact we're in love
With every last bird
From Spruce Grouse to dove.
And so good friends
Let us say with great might
A big thanks to Jennifer
For a trip filled with delight.
New
Harbor 16:35 – 19:10
We arrived in New
Harbor just after 16:30 and immediately took steps to secure our tickets for
the Hardy Tours puffin trip.
With high hopes, we stayed close to
the dock until we boarded the vessel. All the auguries seemed to be with us as
the water seemed relatively calm and there was nary a hint from anyone that the
voyage might not take place.
Laughing Gull
Laughing Gull
We boarded the boat at 17:00 and at
17:30 were underway. Yippee! There was some cloud and a modest chop to the
waves, but nothing to prevent a continued journey out to Little Egg Rock. It
was not long before we were attentively listening to a narrative from the Maine
Audubon Society as we headed out towards the southernmost Atlantic Puffin
colony in the world. En route we were elated to have a Manx Shearwater fly
parallel with the boat and before you could say “Watch for puffins” there they
were - in the water, on the wing, heading out to sea, returning with bills full
of fish, doing everything puffins are supposed to do. We were all thrilled and
I am sure that for both Jennifer and Bob elation was tinged with shades of
relief.
A
couple of Wilson's Storm Petrels put in an appearance and Black Guillemots were
numerous. Both Arctic Terns and Common Terns were present and we could see
research workers on Little Egg Rock. I never actually saw a Razorbill but the
decoys were so realistic that I was totally confused by one and if it hadn't
been pointed out to me I would have counted Razorbill on my list!
Atlantic Puffin
After a couple of forays alongside the rock the captain turned the boat around and headed for port. We were docked again by 19:30.
Atlantic Puffin
After a couple of forays alongside the rock the captain turned the boat around and headed for port. We were docked again by 19:30.
Betty was a little green from the
motion of the boat but other than that everyone was highly energized by a
successful expedition to see these enigmatic birds.
We piled into the van and set off for
Portland. En route we stopped at a McDonald's Restaurant to grab a quick dinner
that we could eat en route. Miriam and I both had Angus beef wraps. Betty had
by now regained her normal colour and we were happy to see her get something to
eat.
We arrived at the Comfort Inn around
21:30 and quickly unloaded the luggage.
Bob certainly deserves a huge amount
of thanks for his dedication in bringing the puffin search to a successful
conclusion. He still had to drive another three hours to get home and prepare
for another trip he was leading the next day. Miriam and I regretted that in
the rush to unload the bags and for him to get back on the road we didn't get a
chance to say goodbye and express our appreciation for a job well done.
Everyone had different departure plans
so we said our farewells before going up to our room. A memorable birding trip
to Maine had come to an end with the kind of nail-biting conclusion that would
have done a suspense novel proud!
All
species 27 June – Common Eider, Manx Shearwater, Wilson's Storm Petrel, Northern Gannet,
Double-crested Cormorant, Northern Harrier, Laughing Gull, Ring-billed Gull,
Great Black-backed Gull, American Herring Gull, Common Tern, Arctic Tern, Black
Guillemot, Atlantic Puffin, Rock Dove, Blue-headed Vireo, Cedar Waxwing,
Black-capped Chickadee, Barn Swallow, House Sparrow, American Goldfinch,
Ovenbird, Black-and-White Warbler, Common Yellowthroat, American Redstart,
Black-throated Green Warbler.
Accommodation: The
Airport Comfort Inn, South Portland, ME.
Rating: 4 stars.
General
Comments
What a gloriously beautiful state and
what wonderful birds. This trip was all that we could have hoped for and we
consider ourselves fortunate to have taken part. We made new friends and are
determined to visit Ohio to bird with some of them next spring.
Our
Guide
It would be hard to heap too much
praise on Bob Duchesne. I cannot imagine a more dedicated guide, anxious to
find the species his clients wished to see, and eager to show them not only the avifauna of the state but its
expansive habitats and myriad beautiful areas. I cannot imagine anyone who
could know the state better. Not only did we have the services of a superb natural
history leader, we were plied with information about many other aspects of the
state – its history, economy, past, future, and politics. As a State
Representative Bob was able to provide a unique insight into aspects of Maine
of which others would simply be ignorant.
Miriam joins me in saying that if you
have the chance to go birding in Maine you could have no finer companion than
Bob Duchesne.
Our
Trip Leader
In the echelons of nice people you
meet in life Jennifer Monahan is at the very top level. It was always a
pleasure to be around Jennifer and she never for a moment lost her infectious
good humour no matter what situation presented itself. It was a great pleasure
and privilege to travel with her.
Taxonomy
I have adopted the
nomenclature and taxonomy of the IOC World Bird List 2011 for my life list and
this work is used throughout this report. People who use other taxonomy (e.g.
Clements, Howard & Moore etc.) should have no difficulty recognizing birds
with different names.
Further
Information
Contact David M.
Gascoigne or Miriam Bauman, 519 725-0866, email: theospreynest@sympatico.ca
28
June 2012
South
Portland, ME – Keene, NH
Miriam woke early and was showered
before I even got out of bed. We made a coffee in the room a little after 06:00
and went downstairs for breakfast just before 07:00. Miriam had yoghurt, an
orange and coffee, while I chose sausage on an English muffin, a hard-boiled
egg, yoghurt and coffee.
We were on our way to New Hampshire by
07:40. It felt good to be back in our own vehicle, the day was sunny with a
pleasant temperature of 19.5°C.
Our destination was Center Harbor, NH
where Miriam wished to visit Keepsake Quilting, a giant store of some renown.
She was not disappointed, spending three hours there and emerging with a
considerable quantity of fabric. I
stayed with her in the store for a while, then decided to spend my time in a
nearby bookstore where I bought a couple of volumes. I returned to the car to
read until she arrived back victorious.
We stopped at Lakeside Deli &
Grill and enjoyed delicious salads on the front porch overlooking the lake.
Miriam's choice was a spinach salad with red onions, bacon, caramelized walnuts
and balsamic vinaigrette.
I
was very happy with a chicken BLT with blue cheese dressing. Miriam had a
coffee, I had a soda.
We left at 13:30 to head for
Canterbury, NH to visit a Shaker Village. We didn't have time to cover it all
but what we experienced left us wanting to know more about these fascinating
people. It was a visit that we really enjoyed. We were told that only five
Shakers now remain, all living in Maine.
By now we were looking for a place to
spend the night and checked into a Best Western inn in Keene, NH. We went for
dinner to an Applebee's Restaurant where Miriam selected Grilled jalapeno
shrimp with a black bean sauce and corn salsa and vegetables on rice. I chose
Asian Lime Chicken also on rice. Both dishes were very good. We both had a
glass of iced water with lemon, but I let them twist my arm and ordered a
Perfect Margarita!
Back at the Best Western Miriam soaked
in the tub for a while and we were in bed and asleep before 20:00.
Accommodation:
Best
Western Plus Sovereign Hotel, Keene, NH. Price: $111.83 including tax.
Rating:
4
stars
29
June 2012
Keene,
NH – Waterloo, ON
The complimentary
breakfast was in a large room and featured a good variety of items. I had
sausage on an English muffin (is this getting to be a habit?) while Miriam
opted for cereal and yoghurt. We both had coffee.
This was a day to drive home, so other
than a stop for sandwiches at a Dunkin' Donuts, and restroom breaks, we drove
on through the day. We arrived at the border at 15:05 and joined the lineup of
traffic, but it moved well and we only spent about a half hour before we were
back into Ontario and heading for Waterloo.
We pulled into our driveway around
17:15 – glad to be home!
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